92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Joined
Sep 9, 2012
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5
So I have the above mention motor It just seized up the 4th piston is toast. I have heard that when it is the middle piston like this that is was a carb problem that leaned out and scored the piston. Anybody have any expierence with that. I also would like some ideas on how to rebuild this motor cheaply with myself doing the labor. I am getting married soon and can afford the cost to have a shop do it. Plus I am fairly handy with a wrench just haven't done much with outboards. Mostly just worked on trucks. So if anybody could give me some advice and point me in the right direction that would be great. Also I am looking for a service manual for this motor all I can find is the 2.5l Thanks again
 

aussieflash

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 5, 2011
Messages
1,004
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Post your serial#,located on transom mount/bracket.
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,245
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Could be several things. Not just tha carb deal. Electrical and heat are just two. Hard ta say without looking at it. You can clean and put new gaskets in tha carbs but a complete electrical check out would be tha main thing ta look at. Put a new pump kit in it if you rebuild it. Check ALL flat mating surfaces for being exactly that. Flat and true............jmo
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,618
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Just as Dukedog said,, check the electrical, discard the idle stabilizer module, up the mains jets .002 to cool piston better, and if you pull skiers/tube drop prop couple pitches to keep if from being lugged in the 4000rpm range.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
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Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Why would you discard the idle stabilizer module? And no I don't pull skiers It is mounted on a 1992 Champion 176 fishunter. The boat is a 17.5ft fiberglass and also has a 6 inch jackplate. I run a 9.9 kicker on the transom as well. But this is strictly a fishing boat. but there is some weight in there with all the equipement in it.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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15,618
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Why would you discard the idle stabilizer module?
They have history of failing and altering the timing causing engine to fail.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
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Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

So what do you do with the wires that plug into the idle stabilizer? And What is the proper steps to remove this Module? And how do I up the jets?
 

wired247

Lieutenant Commander
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Oct 8, 2011
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1,557
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

You don't need to remove it at all. Just disconnect the wiring going to it. Tape the ends if it makes you feel better but it isnt necessary. Having said that the rate of failure for those is insignificant . I'm sure it happens but rarely at best. Best thing is that if you disconnect it over 5500 it doesn't retard the timing. Makes more of a hard hit on the rev limiter if you are running one but you'll pick up a few MPH without it. The idle stabilizer does do a pretty good job stabilizing the idle but not enough to worry about unless you have other problems causing an erratic idle.

Lean outs are often caused by debris in the carb plugging a jet . Clean them and change fuel lines. Use a new filter. They can also be caused by a weak fuel pump or kinked line.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
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15,618
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

Having said that the rate of failure for those is insignificant .
I see/repair 3 to5 engines a year that has had damage from stabilizers failed, the jetting is easy as you just pull the main jet plug/holder. The 2.4 Xr4 is a steel sleeve motor and pistons will run a bit cooler with the extra jetting and no loss of power.
 

CharlieB

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
5,617
Re: 92 mercury 150 xr4 2.4l black max

The idle stabilizer was designed to increase ignition timing by altering the Bias on the switchboxes to speed up the idle if it drooped below the factory set point.

WHEN it fails, as all things electrical do, it is WHEN, not if, it grounds Bias and increases timing, which, at WOT and already AT max timing, can grenade the motor. I do NOT like parts flying out the side.

Added; The ONLY wire you need on the Bias terminal of the switchbox is the SINGLE one that connects the two boxes together, remove and tape off any others.
 
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