bearing races

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Hi all. So I had my first bearing failure yesterday. It caused the whole bloody wheel to fall off! Thankfully, I was at the ramp, but it could've been nasty. Any way, I've been doing lots of research as to how to replace and repack the bearings, but I'm a little unsure as to the bearing "races". Do they come pre-insatalled in the new bearings, or do you keep/reuse the old ones on the trailer? Thanks.
 

UncleWillie

Captain
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
3,995
Re: bearing races

The races are part of the bearing and are "Matched Sets"
Do not go swapping parts around. NO Mix and Match Allowed!
The old stuff gets pitched and the new stuff replaces them.

The new bearings will come with their own Matched races.
It will all become obvious when you have the new bearings in hand.
This is not as difficult as it may seem now.
It is a simple swap out.
 

The_Kid

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
447
Re: bearing races

I'll add to what UncleWillie said. Tap the old ones out by working in a circle. Sometimes they can be a bit stubborn. I tap the new ones in by using a board between the race and the hammer. I also take a set of the old races and grind down the outside of them so they just slide into the hub. Once the new race is flush with the hub I set the modified one on top and use that to fully seat the new race. Another trick is to put the new race into the freezer for a while. It makes tapping it in easier.
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
Re: bearing races

Take your hub down to Northern Tools and buy a whole new hub with bearings, seals, etc. already installed, ready to go...about $30
 

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: bearing races

Thanks y'all. I just got everything taken apart and I think I got it. While one side was okish, the side were the wheel fell off is missing both bearings the washers and castle nut. Also, no cotter pin in this set up apparently. In this version, there are two washers behind the castle nut, the outer one of which has as 90 degree tab on it that I suppose you fold down between the tabs of the castle nut (does it have a particular name?). Any who, I'm gonna get new bearings for each side (inner and outer), new rear seals and a new castle nut and washers for the side where the wheel fell off. Do I need bearing buddies with, or without the zerks, or can I just get simple "dust caps" to put over the end. I also noticed that behind the old bearing buddies which had their own grease zerks, is another zerk built into the axle spindle itself. Should I remove them and clean out whatever is in there? It looks like you can pump grease into the end of the axle and it will come out a small hole where the inner bearing would sit, presumably so you can grease them without taking everything apart. If so, should I pump them up with fresh grease until I see it exit the rear hole prior to reinstalling the hub assembly, or after everything is put back together? I'd love to get the whole thing preassembled, but I don't have a Northern Tools per se. I do have a Harbor Freight,NAPA, auto zone, etc... Would they carry them? Here are some pics of how I think my set up works.

0910121451-01.jpg

Castle nut and washers. Does anyone know where I might find these without having to order it online?

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5780K&eq=&Tp=
 
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