HELP: Wiring a Force Motor to a new ignition switch

dennisporter

Recruit
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
4
We are struggling with rewiring a brand new ignition switch for a '92 90 hp Force motor. We removed all the old wiring, including a separate choke switch on the dash. (We think the someone put in a new choke wire when they could not trace the problem in the old wiring harness between the motor and the original ignition switch). I did not do a good job keeping the wire straight during the removal.

We re-used the original heavy duty wiring harness between then connection block inside the motor housing and a the the quick connector. We cut the quick connector out because the pins were falling out of the plastic plug and it was rusted. Instead, we installed an new electrical block in a dry location, connect the original heavy duty wire to one side of the block, and then ran new wire from the other side of the block to the dash.

I can engage the choke but after that, I can't get anything to work. It is likely I can't wire the ignition correct ( I am frustrated reading the wiring diagrams or there is another problem ( ie relay or starter is dead). Based on the switch diagrams, the shop manual manual, and the wiring info on the motor, I should be able to do this but I need some expert eyes from this forum to help me out. I don't want to add the complexity of gauges at this time, I only want to make sure I can turn over the motor and it has been 3 years since i ran last)

Question#1: Can we safely test the starter via bypassing the ignition switch? On the terminal block ( see attachment), what do we need to jump to engage the starter? I don't want to attempt more wiring if there is a problem I am missing ( relay or unknown problem). I can engage the choke and of course the trim is working fine (separate circuit)

Question #2 Based on a 6 pole ignition switch and the terminal block, which wires go to just get the motor turnover?

******Battery is connected to the motor via factory connection.*****
On the motor On the Ignition Switch
Start S (goes through the neutral switch on the throttle)
Tachometer (goes to tachometer)
Stop Which "M" is this?
Choke C (this works for sure)
Overheat Do I need it for a simple turnover?
Positive "B"
Stop 2 Which "M" is this?
Ground ( I assume this completes the circuit for gauges only)

I am sure I missing a jumper to complete a circuit, and that is the frustration.

Thanks in advance
Dennis
 

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Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
Re: HELP: Wiring a Force Motor to a new ignition switch

The two"M's" are the stop wires. One terminal has two black (or blue) wires with one connecting to the terminal board which connects to the overheat buzzer to ground; while the other black wire with this terminal is parallel to the stop or kill switch. The other M terminal has the white or (black/yellow) wire which connects to the terminal board and eventually to the cd modules. These wires can be switched around between the two M terminals.

The tach wire (gray or purple) and the red/blue wire for the overheat buzzer connects to the "I" terminal which means the tach and buzzer only activates when the key is in the "On" (Ignition) position. Note the orange or tan wire connects first to the buzzer and comes out as red/blue to connect to the "I" terminal.

The "B" terminal has one wire which is the red purple or red which connects to the terminal board and then to the neutral switch and finally to the starter solenoid.

Actually there is no ground wire in the key switch assembly except for the black or blue wire connected to one of the "M" terminals which is used to stop the engine. No ground is provided for gauges or buzzers.

I recommend you do the wiring accordingly because it can actually caused burning the CD modules if not done properly. However, if you want to see progress but just doing the minimum to turn it over at least connect the following:

M terminals, this will allow you to stop the engine if it runs
B terminal, provide the power for the starter solenoid
S terminal, energizes the starter solenoid

"I" terminal is not required unless you want to energize your buzzer and gauges
"C" terminal if you want to energize your choke
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,924
Re: HELP: Wiring a Force Motor to a new ignition switch

scan0009.jpg

This might help???
 

dennisporter

Recruit
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
4
Re: HELP: Wiring a Force Motor to a new ignition switch

Thank you, will give it a shot today. Excellent Explanation!
 
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