Gear linkage

zoe'sdad

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Aug 15, 2007
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So far I have changed the oil in the lower unit, cleaned the carburator changing the gaskets and hoses and yesterday I changed the impeller. After re-attatching the lower unit, I went to connect the linkage but the coupling and lower rod did not line up. I pushed the linkage rod down in order to connect the coupling. Needless to say the the motor will not engage in any gear now. Do I disassemble the lower unit or do I disconnect the linkage at the coupling and shift the gear selector to what ever position the gear is in when the linkage is in the down position and reconnect?
 

zoe'sdad

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 15, 2007
Messages
116
Re: Gear linkage

I've been reading older posts and this sounds like a common problem when changing the impeller. I will disconnect the coupling again and turn the prop to see which direction it is in gear. I will then either try to move rod into neutral or position the gear selector in the gear that motor is and reconnect. I hope it is that simple.
 

wickware

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Re: Gear linkage

What year and model engine? Have you drained the L/U oil and changed the impeller before? Due to reading ?So far I have changed the oil in the lower unit?, like it could be a 1st. If it was a 1st, are you sure you pulled the correct plug to drain the oil. There is a ?Do NoT Pull Pivot Screw?, that is often pulled vs the drain plug. Do you have pics of where you drained the oil. Or! Did a flat screw come out vs a screw with an extended pin?

If you pull that pivot and d/n get it back into the fork the L/U will not shift gears. If this is the case, many people have been successful in getting the pivot screw back into the fork. There was a recent technique showing how to use thread to position the fork and fish for it with the screw.

Hopefully you just have a coupling issue. This means you can lift or push the shift rod up and down to get the gears.
 

zoe'sdad

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Re: Gear linkage

I removed the vent screw right above the lower hydrofoil and the drain screw on the bottom of the foot. When installing the new lube oil I used a pump attatched to drain screw and pumped until it ran out of the vent screw. These two screws were flat head and appeared to be stainless. When removing the lower unit to change the impellor I disconnected the linkage at the coupling below the hinge(?) that the motor turns on. The motor was in neutral when I disconnected. While re assembling the lower unit the there was a single click when I slid the shaft and unit up into position. After tightening everything down, the rod and coupling did not line up and I pushed the rod down which allowed me to attatch the coupling. Now when I move the throttle into forward and reverse the coupling and rod do not move. Hope I explained it well enough!
 

zoe'sdad

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Re: Gear linkage

Yes, it was the fist time that I changed the lube and impeller myself. There was an extended pin on the screw.
 

wickware

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Re: Gear linkage

I tried to find a link to your L/U to see the difference in the drain plug location and pivot pin. Do you know of a good link that will show the different locations? Usually, Drain, Fill, and Vent are marked. ?There was an extended pin on the screw?, does not sound good. IMO the drain is on the very bottom possibly facing up and pivot pin, Un-Marked facing across the L/U.
 

emoney

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Jul 19, 2010
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2,551
Re: Gear linkage

That's probably a "mercury" lower unit? Maybe post a pic, zoe'sdad
 

zoe'sdad

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Re: Gear linkage

I'm trying to post right now. It is the newer Merc lower unit.IMG_0626.jpg
 

emoney

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Re: Gear linkage

Y'up, that's only got the two screws on it; one for drain and the other for vent. The "pin" on the screw is on the drain plug. It's magnetic, by the way, zoe'sdad, for pulling minor pieces of metal out of the LU.

Let somebody smarter than me, like Wickware tell you for sure, but if it were me, I'd drop the LU again to make sure it's in the same gear as the shift lever and then reinstall.
 

wickware

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Re: Gear linkage

Am I seeing that this later model LU d/n have the pivot pin and fork? I looked at a diagram and parts list and d/n see them. Good!! From the attachment I could only see what appeared to be a drain plug. I need to stay with my 1970 35 HP Chrysler experiences. LOL
 

zoe'sdad

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Messages
116
Re: Gear linkage

I disconnected the coupling yesterday afternoon and was able to engage neutral on the lu. when I start to rethread the coupling it binds up and then the shift linkage on the upper unit springs back to the orginal location. It is not threading. In the manual it shows a grommet and then the linkage connects with cotter pin to the controls. Any ideas anyone?
 

emoney

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Re: Gear linkage

I hate to sound like a broken record, but unless you're ready to wait until someone with that specific engine comes along and sees your question, you are much better off taking and posting a picture of the area. That way, if there's someone that quite possibly has an answer, but doesn't know enough about your specific engine to be comfortable answering, might see the picture and say "oh, okay, now I know". Just a thought. Oh, and if you don't have your answer after several hours, bump your thread back to the top so it doesn't get overlooked. You could also post a photo of the manual page that shows this coupler, if nothing else.
 

wickware

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Re: Gear linkage

I c/n see or copy and enlarge this attachment large enough to see it with quality.

Please verify the past shifting fork pivot screw-pin is not a possible issue in late models.
 

zoe'sdad

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Re: Gear linkage

Can you describe the pivot screw-pin? Is it in the LU or foot? The problem is in the upper portion of the unit. I will copy the diagram tonight and repost tomorrow morning.
 

emoney

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Re: Gear linkage

These should help, Wickware;
40b.png

40a.png

Definitely no pivot screw pin.
Zoe'sdad, let's call these "drawing #1 and drawing #2". Can you explain to Wickware where you're having the binding issue by using the numbers that correspond on the drawings. By the way, did you in fact drop the lower unit to get it into neutral, or is this something you did from above? And, is your shifter in neutral as well?

@Wickware, I can't get the "boats dot net" link to post but that's where the drawings came from under 1996 Force 40hp
 

zoe'sdad

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Aug 15, 2007
Messages
116
Re: Gear linkage

emoney, I do not see the drawing 1 or 2. In my manual the upper and lower components of the linkage are shown on two seperate pages. I will post tomorrow. To answer your question, no, I did not remove the lower unit. Did not have to. I am able to move the lower linkage up and down by hand and cycle between forward, nuetral and reverse. If I move the controls between forward, neutral and reverse the upper linkage moves up and down but when I attatch the coupling that connects the upper and lower it binds (the coupling) and it will no longer move up and down with the linkage. There is a you tube video called draysshop where the mechanic shows how to change the impeller and lu lube in part one and two of the video. If view part 1 you will see him disconnec the linkage with two (10) mm wrenches. That is where I'm having the problem, recconecting them. Thank you for the continued help with this problem.
 

zoe'sdad

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Aug 15, 2007
Messages
116
Re: Gear linkage

I was reading mercury mang's post and someone had a link for the Crowley parts manual. On that diagram, under the driveshaft housing diagram, parts # 15 shift shaft and #13 vertical coupling. Those are the parts I am talking about. I can not get the coupling to thread with out binding shift shaft. I had to apply force to disconnect but I do not believe I broke anything. I think it was just some locktite on the threads. I may try removing the coupling completey and shifting the controls into reverse to inspect the treads on the shift shaft. Maybe I just to clean them up and oil to allow the coupling to thread up the shaft.
 

wickware

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Re: Gear linkage

Please share the link to the latest info. I?m not getting something and I feel you are working in a close housing. From watching the good youtube, I feel the rods are on the same vertical line with a little play? If the coupler is cross-threaded bad is this what is causing the alignment/binding problem? The coupler should move by hand per the video and look straight on the rods.

Can you take good close pics of the coupler int threads and 2 rods ext threads? Due to reading of the threading resistance and binding, cross-threading is all I can visualize. Good pice might show this. I can zoom good pics with good light and see alignments and damages I normally would miss. I actually take pics for records and close-up examining. I usually take 3-4 shots varying dist, angles and flash knowing 1-2 will be better shots from mid range cameras vs phones.
 
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