Stalling out

SweeperForce · Jul 30, 2012

Hello,
Rather than reserect and old thread I'd thought I'd start a new one. Here's whats going on:
At the dock before we go out, the motor starts up nice and idles fine while it warms up. Underway through the no wake zone she runs great. Then in open water I can go right to wot with no problems. So far everything is great. My problem is coming back to the dock. As soon as I hit the no wake area and reduce my speed to a craw it stalls. If I just turn the key it cranks but won't start, I need to start it at 1/2 throttle in neutral, the same way I do for a cold start. It does this everytime I come back, it's like she don't want to be put back on the trailer.
I've been told it might be fuel recirulation system and to do a compession test, so here's what I did:
Comp test- good
Plugs -good
Fuel pump diapraghm - good
Fuel pump screen - clean
In-line fuel filter- small amount of fine debris
Seafoam treatment
Fresh gas with 50:1 two stroke tcw3 oil

Now I replaced all the fuel lines this spring with high pressure fuel injection hose(I know overkill)New hoses to and from each pump and the hoses feeding the carbs. Spring of 2011 I replaced the primer bulb. The only hose I did not replace are the small hoses in the pictues below.

Any help on this problem would be great.

Thanks,
Tom

Jiggz · Jul 30, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Can you post your idle RPM in neutral and also idle in gear? Can you also verify the settings of the air screw (fuel-air mixture screw) from lightly seated? To do this, turn each air screw clockwise until lightly seated while counting the turns along the way. Reset to original settings after verifying.

jerryjerry05 · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

If your relying on the original tach to set the rpms it might be too low.
The small hoses are part of the fuel recirc system.
If they are cracked ANY, replace.They can suck air and cause the problem.
The small line is cheap replace it anyway.

SweeperForce · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

My tach is less than two years old. I bought a new US Marine tach off e-bay. I'm getting around 1500rpms in neutral and 1000 in gear. I never messed with the air screw yet, but this next weekend I'll try it. Are my carbs 1 1/16 out from seated. Also I'll replace those hoses. Thanks for the fast replies.
Tom

foodfisher · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Use carb cleaner to spray out the connection/elbows to those smaller lines also. Got lots of gunk out of mine.

jerryjerry05 · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Like food says a spray cleaner in the connectors.
Yes about 1 and 1/16 out for initial adjustment.

Jiggz · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

SweeperForce said:
My tach is less than two years old. I bought a new US Marine tach off e-bay. I'm getting around 1500rpms in neutral and 1000 in gear. I never messed with the air screw yet, but this next weekend I'll try it. Are my carbs 1 1/16 out from seated. Also I'll replace those hoses. Thanks for the fast replies.
Tom

Actually those idle rpm's are a little high which would indicate the engine might not be properly idling but instead is slightly throttled up to make up the idle rpm. This could indicate the idle jets are clogged or the idle needle valve is already worn out or imperfect. Remove and inspect both needle valves (air screw) and while out, shoot the port with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. I use the latter due to its pressure. Visually inspect the spark plugs too, if there is an indication of carbon buildup you might want to de-carbonize the engine using straight seafoam (shoot it directly into the carbs while revving manually using the tiebar). If you do not have seafoam you can also use plain water in a spray bottle. Start slow until you see carbon dust coming out of the exhaust.

salmonslammer · Jul 31, 2012

Re: Stalling out

My 85hp was doing the same thing..... Replaced all the fuel lines, pump and rebuilt the carbs (had a failed float).....Runs great once again!

Now if I can get my idle throttle dialed in....Ill be finished! Been a long month of wrenching!

pnwboat · Aug 1, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Looking at the pictures, I see you have the type of fuel pumps that occasionally have problems with sticky check valves. Each pump has 3 check valves. They're available and about $5 apiece. Just a suggestion.

Frank Acampora · Aug 1, 2012

Re: Stalling out

As far as I know, only the Chrysler 140 and Force 150 had dual fuel pumps set in series with each other.

I see that you have twin fuel pumps which are not necessary on the 125 and they are plumbed incorrectly. Currently the top pump two stages are only 90 degrees apart

The top pump needs to have the second stage pulse hose fed off the top (#1 Cylinder) bypass cover. You would need to drill and tap the boss 1/8 NPT and install a 90 degree fitting.
Yours appears to be fed by a tee off the bottom cylinder.

I don't think that it would cause slow speed stalling but, try re-plumbing and see if it helps.

jerryjerry05 · Aug 2, 2012

Re: Stalling out

He has a 150.
His 150 fuel system is right.
Post a pic of your 150(Frank) Should be the same.
Look at the bottom coil,the plug wire.Looks like it's streched,maybe grounding out???

Frank Acampora · Aug 2, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Hmmm! How did I get the idea it was a 125? It is obvious from the photo that it is a 150.

jerryjerry05 · Aug 2, 2012

Re: Stalling out

It's that psychic thing again

SweeperForce · Aug 4, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Yes the 5th plug wire is stretched tight. It was not worn through, so I wrapped it eletrical tape for added protection.
I'm having a hard time finding recir tubing. So, I went to Lowes and found 1/4 black drip tubing which fit the fittings perfectly. The bust strenth is 68psi @70?F. Will this be sufficient for fuel recirculation hose?
I'm going to hold off drilling into my motor until I clean the recirc system and check my needles valves and jets.

Tom

foodfisher · Aug 4, 2012

Re: Stalling out

If it can withstand petroleum products. That stuff is for water.

jerryjerry05 · Aug 4, 2012

Re: Stalling out

There is almost no pressure on the hoses.
I get my fuel hoses,Ethanol resistant at Ace Hardware.
They have all sizes.Should say my store carries some marine stuff.

SweeperForce · Aug 5, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Being that I live in southern Pennsylvania our Ace Hardware deals mainly with farming supplies. However, I did stop in at a local auto parts store and I found chain saw/weedeater 1/8 fuel hose. It fits on the fitting nice and snug. It is my understanding that the elbow fittings on the motor are attached to a check vavle. So to thoroughly clean them I will need to unscrew and remove them. Then spray carb clearner through it. This will be a project for next weekend.

Tom

foodfisher · Aug 5, 2012

Re: Stalling out

I left mine in the block. Pressure from the can did the job. Have a rag to surround the area. Lot's of back splash.

SweeperForce · Aug 16, 2012

Re: Stalling out

Ok, I sprayed out all the elbows and fittings then installed the recir. fuel lines. Everything when on nicely. I had to remove the the bracket for the cdi mods and the coil packs to get to cyl 1 drainage port. Upon removal I noticed that the coil pack for cyl 5 had a broken ground wire. So I don't know when it broke off but I replace it.
Now when I got back to the water, it started so easy and ran great (for a while). After spending some time at the sandbar, I had a heck of a time getting it restarted. When I pulled the top, three of the hoses blew off. Two of the hoses that blew off were feeding carbs 2 and 3. And the other hose was at a junction where three hoses come together. Now there is gas and oil all over the moter and on the inside of the crowl.
My solution is to wipe clean the fittingins and reinstall. Then apply a liberal amount of RTV over the hose and fittings. I tested it on piece of tubing I have here. It sealed the hose to the fitting yet flexilbe enough to be removed with a forceful tug.

Tom
After

pnwboat · Aug 16, 2012

Re: Stalling out

For the fuel line hoses, I always use a small stainless steel hose clamp. For the really small hoses (fuel recirculation lines), I use a small 4" black nylon tie wrap, and place it on the hose like it was a hose clamp. Cut off the excess and there you go! Only drawback with the nylon tie wraps is that they are one time use only, but they're cheap enough that it's not a big thing.

I've seen some brand new Mercury outboards where the factory has used the black nylon tie wraps on all of the hoses instead of metal hose clamps.

Stalling out

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