dst87mcssac
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2007
- Messages
- 91
Hello,
You folks have been helping me with my 1997 Force 75 HP Motor ( 1 Carb, 3 cylinders) with Model Number ELPT and Serial Number 0E25006275. I got the motor to run this past weekend after overcoming a no spark condition. I replaced the Stator ( New unit from CDI) and replaced my damaged flywheel with what seems to be a direct replacement from E-Bay. The replacement flywheel has great teeth and was listed as the part number that I needed for my model and year Force Motor. TDC is across from the key way like my damaged flywheel so I believe the wheel is the correct one.
I got the motor to run about five times out of about 15 tries. It seems like the starter disenguages permaturely as the motor tries to start. The starter is new, but it has had a work out trying to over come these non start issues. It is a Aftermarket Starter off of E-Bay that cost $70.00. I normally get about two seasons of service from these starters. I greased and replaced the bendix with a used Bendix from my tool box this weekend. I got this new starter in March because my last one broke off at the bendix when I went to start it this spring. This engine also broke off a starter bendix in August of 2008. My keyway is fine ( Flywheel / Crank) upon inspection. This new starter has taken some abuse the last three months so I changed the bendix when I installed the new / used flywheel.
I did a search and a few ideas were listed. One person (Johnson Forum on Iboats) stated the bendix could be bad and another person stated one cylinder could be low on compressor which is causing the starter to speed up and drop out before it cranks.
Now that I have had a few days to think about it, my battery ( Blue Top Optima) was showing full charge on my tester, but was barely weak under a load test. It was boarder line on the tester under a load. This is due to the fact that I did three rounds of trouble shooting since I had it on the charger. The battery is now back on the charger. I also noticed that the battery terminal connection wires were brown colored ( Light rust). I normally use sand paper an dielectric grease and have no issues. However, for the last few months I have been pulling the battery in and out and putting in back on the charger. I have been working on these issues on and off since early march so in hind sight, corrosion may of built up. I need to reclean and grease the wire connections to the battery terminals. Maybe low amperage is my issue with the premature disenguagement?
During my no fire issues, I did a compression test on the motor and I got 70 PSIG on each cylinder. I realize this is not the 120 PSIG that I need to see, but the 70 PSIG was on a cold engine. In hind sight, I also realized that I was only at part ( 1/3 RD) throttle and not at WOT. I am not sure if the throttle postion and cold engine would effect the compression that much. The tester is also a E-Bay low cost import that may not be the most accurate. However the numbers were consistant. I want to retest the compression after I fiinally get the engine running a starting on a consistant basis.
I was in the middle of a impeller change when I ran into the no fire condition this spring. Sunday when the motor was running ( with a great pee stream of cooling water) I was starting and stoping it in-order to adjust the shift linkage. I now believe I have the linkage adjusted correctly but I now can not get the motor to run due to the premature disenguagement. Once I get it running and the shift linkage adjusted, I will then check the compression on a warm motor at WOT.
I have had this boat for ten years with a history of going through starters so I buy the lesser expensive E-Bay ones. Maybe these less expensive starters are a part of my overall problems.
Any thoughts about this premature disenguagement? Is it a compression, bendix or amperage issue? Or is it something else? Is there Viagra for Force Motors? LOL
Thanks,
Donald
You folks have been helping me with my 1997 Force 75 HP Motor ( 1 Carb, 3 cylinders) with Model Number ELPT and Serial Number 0E25006275. I got the motor to run this past weekend after overcoming a no spark condition. I replaced the Stator ( New unit from CDI) and replaced my damaged flywheel with what seems to be a direct replacement from E-Bay. The replacement flywheel has great teeth and was listed as the part number that I needed for my model and year Force Motor. TDC is across from the key way like my damaged flywheel so I believe the wheel is the correct one.
I got the motor to run about five times out of about 15 tries. It seems like the starter disenguages permaturely as the motor tries to start. The starter is new, but it has had a work out trying to over come these non start issues. It is a Aftermarket Starter off of E-Bay that cost $70.00. I normally get about two seasons of service from these starters. I greased and replaced the bendix with a used Bendix from my tool box this weekend. I got this new starter in March because my last one broke off at the bendix when I went to start it this spring. This engine also broke off a starter bendix in August of 2008. My keyway is fine ( Flywheel / Crank) upon inspection. This new starter has taken some abuse the last three months so I changed the bendix when I installed the new / used flywheel.
I did a search and a few ideas were listed. One person (Johnson Forum on Iboats) stated the bendix could be bad and another person stated one cylinder could be low on compressor which is causing the starter to speed up and drop out before it cranks.
Now that I have had a few days to think about it, my battery ( Blue Top Optima) was showing full charge on my tester, but was barely weak under a load test. It was boarder line on the tester under a load. This is due to the fact that I did three rounds of trouble shooting since I had it on the charger. The battery is now back on the charger. I also noticed that the battery terminal connection wires were brown colored ( Light rust). I normally use sand paper an dielectric grease and have no issues. However, for the last few months I have been pulling the battery in and out and putting in back on the charger. I have been working on these issues on and off since early march so in hind sight, corrosion may of built up. I need to reclean and grease the wire connections to the battery terminals. Maybe low amperage is my issue with the premature disenguagement?
During my no fire issues, I did a compression test on the motor and I got 70 PSIG on each cylinder. I realize this is not the 120 PSIG that I need to see, but the 70 PSIG was on a cold engine. In hind sight, I also realized that I was only at part ( 1/3 RD) throttle and not at WOT. I am not sure if the throttle postion and cold engine would effect the compression that much. The tester is also a E-Bay low cost import that may not be the most accurate. However the numbers were consistant. I want to retest the compression after I fiinally get the engine running a starting on a consistant basis.
I was in the middle of a impeller change when I ran into the no fire condition this spring. Sunday when the motor was running ( with a great pee stream of cooling water) I was starting and stoping it in-order to adjust the shift linkage. I now believe I have the linkage adjusted correctly but I now can not get the motor to run due to the premature disenguagement. Once I get it running and the shift linkage adjusted, I will then check the compression on a warm motor at WOT.
I have had this boat for ten years with a history of going through starters so I buy the lesser expensive E-Bay ones. Maybe these less expensive starters are a part of my overall problems.
Any thoughts about this premature disenguagement? Is it a compression, bendix or amperage issue? Or is it something else? Is there Viagra for Force Motors? LOL
Thanks,
Donald
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