1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

This is going to sound confusing but i am going to give it my best...

I have a 1976 Johnson 135, I have had problems with the low speed ideal for some time. I talk to a mechanic and he told me at first to try a few things... 2 weeks and 800.00 later and the same problem

Here is what i have done:

-Clean and rebuilt carbs - mechanic also looked them over as to be in great shape. all intake gaskets are ok and tested.
-New fuel pump and all new hoses - primer ball is rock hard and fuel tank is good because is it also new.
-reeds are all tested and seat well - no problem there
-compression is great with 165 on one side and 155 on the other - me and the mechanic don't think the motor was ever used.
-New CDI box or Brain and 4 new coil packs and spark plugs. all coils and plugs are on the right cylinders firing in the right order.
-New gear fluid changed and topped off.
-Prop is in good shape and taken off to make sure there is no rope or wire restricting it.

With my ideal setting maxed out and in water the RPMs show 500 or 600, this is with the prop on. When i engage it into gear it will die every time motor worm or cold.

With the prop off it will ideal better and it will not die out when kicked into great.

The timing at the 500 and 600 RPM is below TDC so about -4. This motor does not have an ideal timing setting or that i can find online. There is the WOT which is set correct.

all the is left is the stator or anything under the flywheel.... also the device that converts AC to DC is reading 8...15...20...4...16... on the volt meter when it is running.

I know this is a lot and probable confusing to read bust i am not sure what is left to do or what direction i should waste more more money in hahahah.

any help would be great,

Jeremy

and new well mixed gas is used....

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

I would set the idle at the RPM recomended in the owners manual. Use a portable tach. ( with the lower unit in the water)

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

with the ideal maxed out i get 500 RPM i cant get any higher... and it dies out all the time.

Thank you for the response, it is nice to know we have these forms for help

Jeremy

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

The idle timing can be used to initially set the idle. Once the boat is floating in the water it should be reset to the correct rpm's. The engine idle should be set with the boat floating normally in the water-when it is in forward gear. Adjust (clockwise) the idle screw on the spark advance lever so that it will idle between 650-700 rpm's. Don't worry about the idle timing degrees, just set it for correct rpm's.

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

i have the idle all the way clockwise and when the boat is in water it dies. its like it does not have the power to keep running. but like i said i can take the prop off and i can get better results. I was told that at idle it should be between 6 and 4 degrees. If this is true i am way off. I am going to go test the volts out of the stator and take the refrator off also to see what results i get....

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Don't set the idle with the prop off - kind of defeats the purpose of setting it in gear under load.

I wouldn't mess with the electrics - I still think you have a setting issue that is just being missed at the moment. Possible the timer is sticking? That anyone has, in the past, replaced something with parts from another motor, throwing adjustments off?

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Chinewalker - no you are right , i dont test with the prop off and there are no other parts that have been added. sync and link is right on also. Can it be that under load or warm my compression changes? The timer rod moves free with no restriction all the way to WOT..... I am still lost with this thing.

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Any more ideas? they would be very helpful.

Jeremy

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Do you get any "lean sneeze" from the carbs when you are idling? (an occasional cough, or sputter?)

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

I dont think it is running on all four cylinders. Try shorting out the plugs one at a time and see if you get equal results each time.

Another possibility: Often times the timer base will be sticky and when you advance the throttle the carburetor butterflies will open before the timer base moves. That will cause instant stalling.

OK, so you and mechanic have looked at the carbs. Have you removed and examined the high speed orifice plugs? They must be absolutely clean without a trace of any gum or varnish in them. Are they the correct ones for the motor?? I don't remember without looking it up, but doesn't that motor also have fixed slow speed orifice plugs? Clean and correct ones??

The rectifier is not your problem. Besides, that is not the way you test it. If it is bad, the battery won't charge, but it won't keep the motor from running.

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Emdsapmgr i do get a sneeze occasionally. after all that i have replaced it is much better.

F_R - all jets are in great shape and i will take a look at the timing base but when i move the throttle it moves right with it.

As far as the stator goes what ohms am i looking for and volts.... like i said before when i test the volts with a volt meter it is all over the place from 190 to 0 to 120... should it hold a constant charge? and also my batteries was not getting charged the rectifier was bad but like you said that is not my problem right now.

Thank you both for the help and ideas ill get back after i test these today.

Jeremy

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

so i tested the ohms out of the stator an i am getting 230 on the one brown wire and 216 on the other. I think that is way to low.. am i correct?

I n water and in idle i am good to go when i put it into gear or a load is on it it dies out right away. could this be bc the stator is not giving the right amount of power to the power pack?

Thanks again,

Jeremy

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

As a general rule, if you are getting insufficient voltage to the power pack, it will be hard to start (because it is rotating slowly), but run ok if you can get it started (because it is rotating faster). Yeah, I know, rules are made to be broken.

You check the resistance on the brown wires when disconnected. Put your meter leads across both wires. It would be the same in either direction. Sorry, I don't know the specs. Then you check one brown lead to ground. Should be infinity (no continuity).

To test a rectifier:
1. Disconnect all leads.
2. Check resistance between one yellow lead and ground. Should be a high or low reading
3. Swap your meter leads and check resistance between the same yellow lead and ground. If you got a high reading before, you should get a low one now, and vice-versa.
4. Check resistance between the same yellow lead and red lead. Results same as #2
5. Swap meter leads and check resistance between same yellow lead and red lead. Results same as #3
6. Repeat all tests on other yellow lead.
7. Note that's a bunch of tests. It must pass ALL of them.

The stator has two large coils with brown wires for the ignition system, and several small coils with yellow wires for charging the battery. They are separate systems on a common laminated core.

Re: 1976 johnson 135 ideal problem....

Ok i am still having the same problems... all i can think of is replacing the stator and the timing base. that is all that is left. All link and sync is good fuel is good carbs are good. i dont ge why i have to have the idle adjustment all the way maxed out just to keep this motor running. this makes me believe that it is the timing base.. any ideas

Jeremy