Rebuilt 2HP Evinrude - Now won't start - Please Help

MrSimon

Cadet
Joined
Apr 30, 2012
Messages
9
My grandfather gave me a 1984 2HP Evinrude (E2RCRS). It has a built in fuel tank with a gravity fed fuel system. Single cylinder.

As a learning project I bought the following parts and installed them:

Head gasket
Carb kit including float and needle
Impeller
Spark plug (set to .03 JC6 I believe)
Plug wire and boot
Fuel hose
Fuel valve with new screen

After that it started but ran kind of rough. I could play with the carb needles to smooth it out a bit, but it never ran well and wouldn't rev up to WOT.

So I took the carb down again and soaked it for a few days and put in a new kit. I used a thin wire to clean out all the holes and blew compressed air through the whole thing. Its very very clean.

Started it up again and it ran better, but still had issues. I played with the needles to get it to run WOT which it did quite smoothly for about 10 seconds then stalled out and wouldn't start again.

So I did the carb AGAIN, and put in a new ignition coil, new point (set to .02), new condenser, and a new complete plug wire assembly.

Now it won't start at all. I can pull on it all day long and it won't even try to start.

I have very strong spark and decent compression, so I assume its a fuel issue.

If I remove the lower (high speed) needle gas pours out so I know its at least getting to the lower part of the carb.

I tried laying the motor down and pouring some fuel mix directly into the carb. When I did that I at least got some exhaust to puff out the motor for a few pulls, but it didn't start .... or even hint at starting.

Because I have good spark, can I assume my entire ignition system is working properly? Could I have good spark and still have a problem with the condenser, coil, point (which are all new)?

This sure feels like a fuel issue ... like the gas isn't getting into the upper part of the carb .... could it be a float/needle issue? I admit I don't fully understand how everything works inside the carb.
 

smurphys1982

Seaman
Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
51
Re: Rebuilt 2HP Evinrude - Now won't start - Please Help

Sounds fuel to me, how long has it been sitting? Also have you tried a small burst of starter fluid?
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Rebuilt 2HP Evinrude - Now won't start - Please Help

Assuming that you are correct in saying that you have good compression and proper spark................... Note that the spark should jump a 1/4" gap on that model with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP!

Double check the flywheel key to make sure the key isn't sheared or fell out. The engine would still spark but would be out of time.

Champion J6C plug gapped at .030 .

Set points carefully as follows:
(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP imbossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
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