Outdrive boot sealant question

Took the boat out last weekend, was having a total blast then I noticed the auto bilge pump kick on. Kind of wierd, never happened in the last 30 years we owned this boat, so took a look under the cover and water was pouring in. Beat feet for the boat ramp and got her out of the water. Couldnt find the source for the life of me, then I seen a small hose clamp worm screw on the bottome of the outdive (mid unit) where it attaches to the tansom. Pushed on it and sure enough the boot had come unseated. Good enough, at least it's not a major problem. Brought it home, looking throuh my trusty service manual and it looks like you have to take the boot free from the transom to get to the back side and get to the worm screw on the big hose clamp. Before I do all there is there a way to re-secure it withough taking the screws out and breaking the seal on the tansom? If not, any pitfalls to look out for? In my mind I shoud just be able to pull all the screws, carefully seperate the boot from the transom, clean the old sealant off (any good ways to do this without damaging the boot), put new sealant on and run the screws back in, any problems with that plan?

Also, what kind of sealant do I need to use between the boot and the transom?

Thanks for the help!

Boat is a 1976 Cobalt 18 foot bowrider with OMC electishift stinger drive

Re: Outdrive boot sealant question

You must take the boot off of the transom. Replacing that clamp can be kinda tricky as there is no lip on the seal. Take you time and make sure the boot is straight and the clamp is seated ALL the way around. Clean the transom and boot of any old adhesive.
Life Seal is the best sealer to use. Keep in mind that you will have a limited working time before it skins over, test fit and be ready to go when you apply the sealer. You can use a couple of ice picks or awls to help hold the boot and ring in place. If you have stripped screws just go to the next size up ( if you need to go larger you will have to drill the aluminum ring out) or dip a few toothpicks in epoxy and stuff in the hole (breaking/cutting off flush). If you need to you can skip a hole until you get a new screw (must be stainless) just don't skip 2 or more or you will have to reseal.

A little Tri-Flow on the clamp screw helps a lot, just keep the inside boot seal and metal surface clean of any oils. Carb spray will do this.

While you are in there you might want to make sure your tilt motor bolts are tight.