Re: transom rebuilding MFG Niagara
Re: transom rebuilding MFG Niagara
You have questions? Here are some answers:
1] The
hull cap is the top part of the boat which comprises the front deck, helm, and the
gunwales (pronounced gunnel most often; gunwales are the top sides of the boat along top sides of the hull)
2] Your boat IS a Niagara Custom. The Niagara Deluxe did not have a
splash well- the part ahead of the
transom. The custom had all the factory options installed; the Deluxe, some of the factory options (and you could order those not included) and the plain Niagara (never seen one) had a junkier windshield and none of the options (the nice Taylor Made plastic windshield was an option available on the Deluxe and standard on the Custom. But I have never see a Deluxe with the cheapy windshield, either)
3] repairing transom fiberglass takes some knowledge of what the transom does structurally. No offense, but you do have that knowledge... yet. There are people here who do. They (and maybe I) can help you get this knowledge.
4] the 4500 is a serial number. I can't remember anymore and didn't take the time to look it up but I believe I recall that the serial number starts with the mold number (4) and the cast number (500). Your boat was number 500 to come from that mold in that year. Some have suggested also that the mold number (4) is the first digit, the second digit is the numeric year (1965) and the last two were the cast number (zero). I did research once and figured it out but I can't remember anymore what the answer was. MFGs were cast with two precision metal molds - one on the inside, one on the outside - that were pressed together to create a very uniform, strong, and light fiberglass hull.
5] In regards to #3, here is my first advice: Cutting the outside IS acceptable, and in fact preferred. *I* cut the inside of mine. However, unless you remove the hull cap (which I do NOT recommend) you can't get your new pieces into place. AND you won't be able to get your pieces into place by leaving 3" on each side. Here is the skinny: If the fiberglass repair is insufficient to repair the outside lines/corners, it will ALSO be insufficient 3" in from the corners. Plus, your two transom eyes are important for trailering, towing a tube AND tying the transom together.
The new transom pieces MUST extend from outside to outside
fully in order to transfer navigation loads, engine thrust load, and most importantly, wave loads to the structural form of the boat. No need for catastrophic failure.
I would make your cuts within about 3/8" or less from the corners. Save the old pieces as you will be able to use them during the repair. If using plywood do not use pine or other AC plywood- get ACX Fir. You *can* use "marine" plywood but in your application the only benefit to buying marine plywood will be to the supplier for all the extra profit you give them. Again, don't buy radiata AC plywood: ONLY ACX
Fir. And don't install it "raw." Wetting it out with resin and putting fiberglass matt between the sheet of plywood will not only help it last a long time it will also make it wicked strong.
6] The best method I have found for cutting a fiberglass hull is to set a circular saw for a very shallow cut, like only 3/8" inch
7] you can repair the fiberglass you cut out at at least 100% but it probably will be like 200% strength done properly. Properly means using both matt and cloth in your buildup and fairing it out with third layer. At that point you will be stronger than factory with the correct materials and correct prep methods.
8] I am excited to read about your project. Depending on how fast you go, you *might* be able to see my work as it gets posted. But don't wait for me!!! I am a very busy person and I haven't gotten to this project I should have done a month ago.
8.1] I bought a friend a 16' Westfield Regal. If I had the money at the time I would have never told him about it but I didn't have the cash, sooooo.... $700 took it as the seller talked himself down from $1500. The boat is in generally good condition, good trailer, iffy-ish motor. Probably OK at $700. However, the transom blew out driving it home; rotted behind the fiberglass below where the splashwell drain ferule is SUPPOSED TO be.
I plan on posting a complete thread showing how to replace a transom with plywood. The interesting thing about the Westfield design is the curved transom, but other than that, the project is the same as yours: hull cap is best not removed, transom inner not accessible due to splashwell. Further, the Westfield splashwell is not a separate piece like on the Niagaras: it is part of the hull cap, molded as one.
Anyway, DON't remove the hull cap. You can do this without making that much work for yourself.
Congrats on the most awesome 14' you can buy. IMHO
Mark
