1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

water fowl

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
6
I just bought a 15-foot fiberglass 1959 Performer runabout .
You know the story....The wood two layers below the seats led to lots of rot.

The stringers are okay, but the ribs, the main part of the wood in this hull, are rotted in the bilge area. I?m still getting to the transom inspection.

I cut out the floor, except a 6 inch perimeter around the outside.
Here's my plan. Chime in!

1. I will Leave the six-inch perimeter of the original floor.
2. Cut out the rotted wood. Spray the mold with MoldAvenger.
3. Leave the un-rotted original rib sections that are closest too the hull.
4. Replace the interior rib wood with douglas fir coated with epoxy.
5. Tape over the new-old rib connection joints with fiberglass onto the hull
6. Plop a ? inch marine ply over the entire original floor- pre glassed, and glassed down.
7. Somehow fix the transom (no solid plan and I won?t start the project until that?s planned out.)

It appears the original rib wood was douglas fir.
At times I?m temped to shove pressure treated 2x4?s under the floor, but calm down later.

Any Help?



Also: it came with a not yet running 1958 Johnson 35 Javelin outboard for $250 . If that vintage has any collector interest, let me know?
Thanks guys.
-Water Fowl
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Welcome to iBoats!

Pics always help us to help you. Best way to post em is via a FREE photobucket account.
What have you done to ensure that the stringers are sound? How bout the transom?
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Nice looking boat- With a VERY nice motor. In case you DON'T know, that's a 1957 Golden Javelin, a very desirable collector motor. I just sold mine. Lots of info on them here-

http://www.javelin1957.com/

If you haven't found them already, you can find the original brochure here-

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Performer


It's tough to see from the photos, But my guess is you'll be better off popping the cap off to do the transom. It looks like it might make it easier to do the floor and stringers, too- Most of the classics I've run across are that way. Popping the top makes it so much easier to get to things.

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

+1 on this^^^^^. I think you'll find that you need to replace the Stringers, Transom and Deck. Best way is as angott says remove the top cap of the boat.
 

water fowl

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
6
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Thanks so much to both of you.
I was told the Javelin was worth money when I bought it. But when I took it to the only local outboard mechanic in my rural area, he said the best he could do is connect me with a scrap metal guy.
I've since contacted a local outboard hobbyist who offered to switch it out with a newer (late 80's model) 25 hp Johnson which he says runs very well. (He owns several 50's Johnsons and could use the parts on this one). Another guy offered me $200 if it came with all the cables (he offered $300 until he found out the emblem was missing).
Would a 25 hp push a 59 Performer?

In regards to popping the top- that initially sounds beyond my abilities (I'm old and alone). Am I foolish to go on if I try to do the job with the top intact?
Once again, thanks for the help.
Water Fowl....
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Yeah, as usual your local out outboard guy has no idea what he's talking about... Do you have the controls and electrical box?? If so, you can easily get what the collector so "generously" offered you for that part alone. As for the missing emblem, I assume it's he plastic seahorse emblem, very common to find that gone. I've got TWO of them in my parts stash- they are rare but not impossible to find, and certainly won't lower the value of the motor by $100.00. PM me and I can help you out there.

You MIGHT be able to do the job without popping the cap, but it would be tough to do right.. More pics of the transom area would help determine that. It's NOT as tough as it aPpears, I've done it many times! It just makes things so much easier ! If you lived nearby we'd have it done in an afternoon ;)
 

water fowl

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
6
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Hey, Thanks
I'm reconsidering lifting the top off the boat as you suggested. At first it overwhelmed me, I was afraid that i'd screw up the rivet points, the top would somehow be welded to the bottom and wouldn't come off, I'd have a tough time putting it back on as I've no real riveting experience.
But that said, I've looked at the transom and realize you're right about doing it right the first time.
I'll PM you about the emblem.
-Water Fowl
 

rickryder

Commander
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Welcome to the Dry Dock WF! This sounds like a great project. It might seem overwhelming but you have some of the greatest people here on iboats to get you through the resto ;)
 

water fowl

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
6
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Thanks for the help guys, and for the link to the pop topping event.
I'll be gone for a few days (fishing in sierra streams w/o a boat). But will be asking many a question when I get back.
-WF
 

water fowl

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
6
Re: 1959 Performer floor, ribs, renovation help

Hi Guys, thanks for the help last month. I'm back at it and have now lifted the top off my boat. You guys were right about that. Now the boat's wide open for me to fix. I pulled the plywood off the transom (total rot at the bottom). I could go on and on about the Gerry rigging I found down there, but I'm past that now.
I have a couple of new questions.
- The ribs running athwart ships do not reach all the way to the sides of the boat at the chine. They leave about 1/4-1/2 inch from the side. Is that normal?
-When replacing the ribs I assume I should leave the 1/4 inch?
-I plan to replace the ribs with kiln dried douglas fir 2/4's which I will treat with epoxy first. Is West Systems (105 + hardener) the best way to go, or should I go cheaper with U. S Compoits or buy Epoxy from home depot?
-I'm replacing the floor, and wonder if I should use Marine Plywood or a cheaper type.
Thanks to all of you for your help.
if you want a laugh, watch my youtube video of the decapitation of the boat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSFMJxXAixw&feature=plcp
 
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