Shorted Distributer

Mousejockey

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
36
What exactly does this mean? Does it refer to the tune up parts? Cap Rptor Points Condenser? Or is there an internal malfunction of the distributer itself?
I replaced the cap,rotor,condensor and points (they needed it) yet have the same issue
The flow chart in the OMC repair manual led me to the diag
 

Reinell-BRXL-191

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Messages
295
Re: Shorted Distributer

well, basically, a distributor takes a high energy discharge from a coil and distributes it to many spark plug wires...
so, as expected, voltage goes in one side and out the other there are 2 systems in a distributor, one is the low voltage side that feed the coil, the other is the high voltage side that feeds the spark plugs...

the high voltage side is easy to diagnose.. power goes in thru the coil wire to to the cap, then goes out thru the bottom to the top of the rotor, then out the end of the rotor to spark plug wire terminals.. not a lot of parts, and if they are all new, not likely your problem

12 volts goes in to the distributor on the low voltage side, goes thru the opening and closing of the points and back out to the coil, turning it on and off to send the high voltage to the distributor ( see above) this is most likely where any short would occur, if the 12 volts is not present at the + side of the coil, then this would lead to none of the above working, if it is shorted to any metal in it's route thru the distributor, it would also cause this problem. these are all easy to find with a multi-meter - my guess is the points are not opening or closing, or the condenser ( actually a capacitor) is shorting to the base plate in the distributor, take it all apart again, and make sure it is installed correctly, and set the gap on the points properly... this of course is assuming there is 12 volts at the + side of the coil...
 

Mousejockey

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
36
Re: Shorted Distributer

OK, I followed the diag listed in the stickey above. I shows - Disconnect the ONLY the grey wire(s) from the (-) side of the coil, keep all others connected. If you now have spark at the tester, the problem is a shorted tach wire or a bad tachometer.

My boat doesnt have a Tach, there are 2 grey wires to the neg terminal hooked togeather. Im a tad lost following the wireing diagram in the book (generic diagram I think) Not having a tach can I just leave these unhooked and forget it or does something else run off of them?



Appears I was to quick to post. I seem to have an intermittant no spark issue =/

When the motor died I had no spark, Id check for voltage with the test light then it would start, run a bit then die, rinse and repeat. I noticed the coil mount wasnt tight, tightened it now seems ok but im keepin my fingers crossed
 
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