thermoswitch question

ok got an easy one for ya. model 507y9b force 50 89. i had an overheat a few years ago and i had unhooked the buzzer like a moron. the motor got hot and the wire is a tik warped from the heat. i cooked paint on motor a tad like another poster on here but it runs fine. i just got my ignition fixed with a new cdi box if ya seen that thread. any how. heres my Q

how does the thermoswitch come out? i havent even tried yet. just sitting here thinking about every thing i should fix to be extra safe. i just restored the floor in it and all new carpet and what not and new coil and cdi impellor ect. so i found the thermoswitch on ebay for under $20. i just want to replace it in case it was damaged since its cheap enough. i forgot witch terminal it hooked to.
theres one terminal that empty on the motor side. meaning the harness coming from the front key ect hook to the front of the terminal and the back of terminal goes to engine components. prob that one but not sure. it should be fixed and if i can for $15 or so im gonna do it to save another heat up. its running great so i want to keep it that way.

ok. the switch is in the head. the spring type thermoswitch orange wire/green stripe. on the large terminal wiring harness (not one on coil assembly) look at the second up from bottom. theres an empty terminal with a red wire from the front harness. im guessing. is that sound right? now that i look at it there appears to be a couple empty ones on the bottom.

does it unscrew out of head?

Re: thermoswitch question

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=338189

lol. ok i think i figured out where it goes from this old thread. third up on the left side lol. it can be seen in the pics in OP. still need to know how i get it out. looks like its in there with no way to turn it ect. could heat mess it up? how or can it be tested? thanks.

Re: thermoswitch question

fourth up i guess it is. and the wiring diag i found from that link in the thread too.

well did a search http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=479233

maybe next time ill try that first lol. guess ill post again if i cant get it out. seems there easy and its prob not damaged.
looking at my OP AT THE FIRST PIC OF WIRING LOOKS LIKE 4 UP ON LEFT IS OPEN. WITH A WIRE COMING FROM IGNITION. THATS IT.

Re: thermoswitch question

Small snap ring holds the sender in place.
Any red wire is a hot lead.You'll cook the sender(if it's any good)in a second.
Under the dash look for the cable then follow the lead to the buzzer.J

Re: thermoswitch question

ya the purple wire on the distribution block (fourth up on the block) goes up to the front. glad i looked at these threads. i was gonna hook it to the red one. oops. thanks. gonna see if i can get it to work now. then i got to see if i can get new a new kill and lanyard. someone disconnected it years ago.

Re: thermoswitch question

got a set of universal keys and got kill wired back up. getting this thing back to origional condition. heated the lil buzzer with a lighter and got nothing. it was never un hooked anywhere but the terminal i re connected. i guess when it overheated it messed it up. the rubber plug on it was cooked and the wirw sheath was melted. ita a $40+ part. got in brand new for $13.50 on ebay an hour ago. the old one doesnt leak so should be fine till i get new one next week.

Re: thermoswitch question

Does the buzzer work???
Just ground it out(key on)to the block.It should sound the buzzer.

Re: thermoswitch question

nope. i grounded it with key on to everything it would reach. nothing.

Re: thermoswitch question

Sent U a PM

Re: thermoswitch question

thanks. i put a battery charger on the buzzer today and got nothing. terminals are green dirty. gonna pop it off clean and test directly on battery and see if i get anything. may hit ya up.

Re: thermoswitch question

think buzzer is toast. 12 volts to the two terminals produced 0. returned pm. thanks. got a new thermoswitch coming in mail now.