1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

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vintage_car

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I'm a total noob on boating, I have 110 Johnson outboard and would like to check it over- general maintenance...is there any guide for this? can you check the lower unit for water without draining the whole thing, or is it just as quick to drain it? not sure of other things to look for on this motor.
 
Joe Reeves

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

Leave the engine in an upright running position for a hour or so, then simply loosen (Loosen!) the bottom drain screw enough to allow a small bit of lube to escape. If water exists (heavier than oil), it will be right at the point and will be the first thing you'll see.

Buy a compression gauge (available and cheap anywhere) to check the compression occasionally. Should be approximately 100+ and close to even on all cylinders. Inspect spark plugs to see if they all look identical. Visual check of fuel lines, wiring etc.
 
Boss Hawg

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

Joe is right on- I've had a '87 110 for several yrs & its been a great motor!
Go ahead & change the lower oil every season-
 
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vintage_car

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

I need to get a pair of those 'ear muffs' I assume so I can do this at home. If water does come out, is that normal, abnormal, or depends on the amount?
For the compression test, is it the same as on a car, remove all the plugs, disconnect coil and do a couple brief bumps of the engine on each cyl.
 
Boss Hawg

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

vintage_car said:
I need to get a pair of those 'ear muffs' I assume so I can do this at home. If water does come out, is that normal, abnormal, or depends on the amount?
For the compression test, is it the same as on a car, remove all the plugs, disconnect coil and do a couple brief bumps of the engine on each cyl.
Click to expand...

No muffs needed for changing lower unit oil------ You want NO water-- Best to replace seals on plugs (I seldom do tho)
On plugs pull ONE at a time & check then replace then move to the next - I let mine turn over a couple of times on each cyl-- Least thats how i've always done it---

Ain't she purdy :D

BOAT023-1.jpg
 
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vintage_car

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

with compression test do I need muffs on?
with lower unit, the hour of runtime I would have to have the muffs on, then after the hour of running remove muffs, raise motor and check oil in lower unit...right?
 
Boss Hawg

Boss Hawg

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

vintage_car said:
with compression test do I need muffs on?
with lower unit, the hour of runtime I would have to have the muffs on, then after the hour of running remove muffs, raise motor and check oil in lower unit...right?
Click to expand...

I think we're getting mixed up-----
Compression test----No starting of motor- No muffs
Lower unit oil--- No starting of motor- Just ease off lower drain (not the phillips!) screw with motor lowered & see if oil or water comes out- If no water your good to go ---Now if oil is nasty go ahead & change it-

I haven't watched this but they are all pretty much the same- Might help-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqQvbXV1Cw4
 
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boobie

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

On a compression test pull all the plugs and turn it over until you get the highest reading. Make sure your key is off and use a remote starter button or else ground out the plug wires.
 
Joe Reeves

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1989 110 HP Johnson outboard- lower unit basic question

In total agreement with Boobie. All plugs removed allows the highest rpm for a good psi reading.... usually 4 revolutions to a cylinder does it. Works for me anyhow.
 
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