Help on installing Gasket

I have Eska 5 hp . I need to replace the Gear housing Cap gasket. (this nomenclature is taken right out of the manual.

part 190074-02 housing, Gear

part 26363-02 Cap.

Part 26364 Gasket.

The Gasket is what I am replacing , the challange is I have never done this before. I assume you have to make sure you clean off all of the remains of the previous gasket but you dont want to scratch the metal, so i am thinking emery cloth?

Do I clue the gasket in place, and if so what type of glue?

Thank you for your help
Mark

Re: Help on installing Gasket

I have used a big fat putty knife, big enough to span the whole thing. I have also used a flat file, but you want to be careful with that, because it will remove metal. I don't like emery, because it will rain abrasive into the gears, and we don't need any of that. You don't need a sealant, there, but it's not going to hurt if you do, just don't apply it so heavily that it squeezes globs into the gear box.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

Thank you for the information.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

Yes I would definately put on a little bit of permetex. I have had issues in some cases when not putting in on the gasket surface. I like to use acetone to clean up mating surfaces from old gasket and oil. If you need to get out the ultra fine wet/dry sandpaper you can. This helps to keep file dust from going all over the place. I also put a plastic bag down inside gear case or cylinders when I do this just to be sure nothing makes its way down there.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

On my 3HP Tanaka I quit using those gaskets years ago, just clean the metal surfaces good and run a thin bead of black Silicone Rubber Gasket Sealer around it and bolt it together...works fine, so far.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

robert graham said:

On my 3HP Tanaka I quit using those gaskets years ago, just clean the metal surfaces good and run a thin bead of black Silicone Rubber Gasket Sealer around it and bolt it together...works fine, so far.

Click to expand...

Yup sounds feasible. Good ole gasket maker will also fill in any voids in the metal that the gasket can miss.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

I'm sorry to disagree on the permatx gasket thing, thats what I call a shade tree folly and will undoubtedly leave you paddling some day or burn up some equipment...the reasons should be obvoius,
However on gasket removal a good sharp fillet knife & a good putty knife come in handy along with some scotch brite type disks for your dremmel or air tools ...they also make a liquid gasket remover sold at auto parts store nation wide,
BRP sells a tan colored gasket sealer wich many call peanut butter, I use the racers edge permatex product called hylomar to lightly coat my new gaskets mostly to hold them in place and to help remove them with out damage if I have to get back in there for some reason...hylomar and BRPs product is non setting, the BRP product is great for coating stainless bolts that go in to aluminum, [h=1]Johnson Evinrude BRP Gasket Sealing Compound 0508235 [/h]and for water pump housings and other gaskets types like Orings we use 3M 847 gasket maker, I use this to coat my stainless and any bolts and anything that tend to vibrate out or corrode, I hate to admit to it but this is the only gasket compond I would even consider to use in place of a real gasket do to the fact it displaces oil and sticks rather well, it is widly used in aviation and tends to stay usable for years in the tube unlike most permatex silicone products.

Re: Help on installing Gasket

First of all, I just did the same job on an 85 Eska 5hp, and it's a lot less daunting once you get into it. I actually have two of these (twins) and I'll be replacing the gasket on the other today...

That being said, it sounds like you have the manual. The way I've always looked at it, personally, is there is no reason not to follow the manuals exact specifications. Just to give you a different perspective, here are the bullet points of things to have handy and watch out for...

A.) I started with a clean, dry cylinder, and a clean, dry motor/cowl in general. This was so if by chance anything were to get into the cylinder, it wouldn't "adhere" to any oil or other liquid, and would be easy to blow out with compressed air. ALWAYS have compressed air around. I put the piston at top dead center and constantly blew any debris away throughout the job. I also like the plastic bag idea mentioned above, but have yet to try it...

B.) The metal that the gasket lays on is very soft, and very fragile. I don't like liquid remover because, though effective, it's wickedly "hot" and can be messy. I used a razor blade (which most will say is a horrible idea, but is very effective when used with care) and a magnifying glass to remove the "chunks", and then some 6000 grit wet/dry paper with a little "Mom's 409" (that's spit) to get the left behind, and a touch of Sea Foam "Deep Creep" to finish off the hard stuff/carbon. The end result was nearly flawless, with no scratching or pitting caused by the removal. The bottom line is work SLOWLY and CAREFULLY, and you'll be just fine.

C.) After that I replaced the gasket using a SMALL amount of BRP Sealer (peanut butter). I bought new screws to replace the old ones. Grade 8 - 1/4-20's on mine. Then I torqued them all evenly to the manufacturer recommended 90 in. lbs. (check your manual, mine was 80-100 in. lbs recommended, but other similar Eska motors vary)

D.) Though I'm sure it might still run, don't use gasket maker exclusively (or at all in my opinion, unless it's already horribly scored), and don't try to tighten bare metal to bare metal to seal the head. That's like using a band-aid to replace a chain link...

The end result was great, as there is usually no better way to go than by the book. Also, check around the forum for other similar jobs. Helped me a ton.

P.S. - Listen to mrcrabs...he's schooled me a few times and has never steered me in the wrong direction.