1956 30hp johnson javalin

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Nathan1993

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my aunt and uncle had this old beast I?ve been doing a lot of research on this site to figure out what is wrong with it but first let me tell you what has been done to it I payed someone to put the fuel pump on it to make it a single line fuel system and replaced the lower unit seals. now to the what?s wrong with it when we go down the river with it will run fine then it will bang and clang or knock its horrible it feels like I hit something but I have not hit anything and it will straighten out then go to banging and clanging again and again and so on and so forth please any help with my problem would be greatly appreciated. :confused:
 
jbjennings

jbjennings

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

Either the flywheel key is sheared--unlikely or it wouldn't run right again, or your clutch dog is slipping-- most likely.
JBJ
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

thanks for the fast repliy :D were is the clutch dog at and how can i test or adjust it ?
 
lindy46

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

If it's banging like you hit something, it'e most likely a worn clutch dog/forward gear. The clutch dog is in the gearcase, and it rides back and forth on the propshaft to engage either forward or reverse gears when you move the shift lever. You must remove the lower unit and then remove the skeg to get to the gears. A worn clutch dog will have rounded/chipped "ears" and the forward gear may also show the same signs of wear on the ears. I just replaced a clutch dog on an 18hp Fastwin and the forward gear looked ok. I'll be testing it this weekend and am hopeful that the clutch dog will do the trick. A new dog will run $70-120 depending on where you get it. Forward gears are MUCH more expensive.
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

i got to thinking about this and it will do it in nutral as well in a barel and on the river
 
HighTrim

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

Sound kinda like a shotgun going off? lol
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

no i dont think its backfire if thats wht your trying say but im not a 100% sure of that, its like it cuts out idk if thats what its doing for sure but when it does it it feals like its guna tear the transom off the boat. as of right now though it wont even start so i am going to start with a carb kit to see if that helps my issue any i have it apart does any one know where i can get the silonoed for the electric choke since i have it this far apart i figure i might as well fix that it has the manual one but i want to fix the electric one fixed.
 
HighTrim

HighTrim

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

Nathan1993 said:
no i dont think its backfire if thats wht your trying say but im not a 100% sure of that, its like it cuts out idk if thats what its doing for sure but when it does it it feals like its guna tear the transom off the boat. as of right now though it wont even start so i am going to start with a carb kit to see if that helps my issue any i have it apart does any one know where i can get the silonoed for the electric choke since i have it this far apart i figure i might as well fix that it has the manual one but i want to fix the electric one fixed.
Click to expand...

Do you have it set up to run on 12 Volts or is it still factory 6 volt setup?
 
Ross72

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

I had a '64 Big Twin 40hpthat would cut out (bang) and then comeback up. I went thru the whole motor and couldn't find anything wrong. Asa last ditch effort, I changed the plug wires and that was it.

The odd thing is tha the wire carried voltage and had continuity, but shorted it self out somehow. Check under the flywheel, sometimes the insulation can rub of the wire leading to a short.
 
kfa4303

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

HI Nathan. This link will help you give that old gem a tune up from top to bottom. If the "bang" you're describing feels like you're hitting a subermed log, then it is most likely a bad/worn clutch dog, which is actually fairly common. To confirm this suspicion, you'll have to drop the lower unit and inspect the gearcase. It's not as bad as it sounds and it's a job you can do yourself with basic tools. However, finding a new clutch dog may take a bit of effort and will probably cost more than you like, but without it your motor will run all day, but never go anywhere. If you do need a new clutch dog, check ebay and/or place a WTB ad on aomci.org. Here's a link to a parts list with exploded parts diagrams for your motor. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.


http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/376750/37675000001.htm (slightly different model than yours, but all the major part # are the same)

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm (great link for a magneto rebuild)
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

would it still be the clutch dog if it does it while in nutral because it does it while in netral
:confused:
 
kfa4303

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

If the bang seems to be coming from the lower end then it may be that the shift rod is not properly adjusted and causing the clutch dog to be semi-engaged and bang around. It would be like holding the gear select lever between the FWD and Neu position. To check the shift rod, remove the small oval plate on the side of the exhaust leg and inspect the shift rod coupler. If it is loose, or has a bolt missing it will need to be adjusted. If the banging seems to be coming from the motor, you may have a bigger problem. For starters, what gas/oil mix are you using when running the motor? It should be 24:1, which is about 5.5 fl. oz. of TCW-3 oil to 1 gallon of 87 octane gas. Any leaner and the motor's internals will not have proper lubrication, which may also be contributing to the knocking/banging sound. The motor should also only ever be run on the open water or in a test tank with water filled up to about and inch or two below the main exhaust port. Check these bits and report back on what you find. We'll figure it out, but first we'll try to eliminate anything obvious like the shift rod and fuel/oil mix.
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

thanks for all the help on this i think it is comming form the moter not the lower end i just removed the fly wheel it was not the key way that was broke the coils look fine as well do the pionts no burn spots on them at least and they are set at .020 so idk what it is and the fuel mix and this is what i was told to run in it and how to mix it 1qt of 30w non detergent oil to 6 gal of gas iv always wonderd about that cause it smokes like a freat train and it has realy good comprestion on both cilinders.
 
kfa4303

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

Hlloe again Nathan. Don't worry about the smoke for now. That will go away on the water. Now that you have the flywheel off., it's a good time to give the ignition the once over using the link below. It's for a different model, but will work for yours as well. Take care to check that the s'plug wires are securely attached to the coil posts. The wires should be twisted on, rather than simply poked on, in order to ensure a good connection. You may also want/need to trim off about 1/2" of the wire on the coil end to expose some fresh copper in the core of the wire. Makes sure there is no dirt or corrosion whatsoever on the points and gap them to .020". Once you've got the ignition put back together, test for spark and makes sure that your spark will jump a 1/4" gap. If you get strong, consistent spark from both wires, we'll then move on to the carb. Follow all the steps in this link and report back. If you should need a tune up kit you can get one right here at ibats for about $20. Hang in there you're almost there.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm
 
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Nathan1993

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Re: 1956 30hp johnson javalin

kfa4303 said:
Hlloe again Nathan. Don't worry about the smoke for now. That will go away on the water. Now that you have the flywheel off., it's a good time to give the ignition the once over using the link below. It's for a different model, but will work for yours as well. Take care to check that the s'plug wires are securely attached to the coil posts. The wires should be twisted on, rather than simply poked on, in order to ensure a good connection. You may also want/need to trim off about 1/2" of the wire on the coil end to expose some fresh copper in the core of the wire. Makes sure there is no dirt or corrosion whatsoever on the points and gap them to .020". Once you've got the ignition put back together, test for spark and makes sure that your spark will jump a 1/4" gap. If you get strong, consistent spark from both wires, we'll then move on to the carb. Follow all the steps in this link and report back. If you should need a tune up kit you can get one right here at ibats for about $20. Hang in there you're almost there.

what is the black wire that comes from underneath the stator ?
Click to expand...
 
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