theologic bear
Recruit
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2012
- Messages
- 3
Hi, I just joined the forum so I could ask a question regarding my first ever boat and outboard.
I took a 1967 17' V-hull fish-and-ski with a 1970 Johnson 85 hp V4 (85ESL70D) on a trade for a gun that was only worth about $300, if that. I figured that the fairly new and sturdy trailer was worth more than $300, and I knew that the Johnson was worth a few hundred in parts if nothing else.
Being close to Lake Guntersville and the Tennessee River, I was sorta hoping that I would be able to get everything up and working on the cheap and have some fun fishing, as I do enjoy fishing. At the same time, I new if it was going to require too much time and money that I could just sell it and make a profit.
Anyway, now that I've cracked into the boat and motor I am fairly optimistic that I can get the boat and motor up to snuff without too much time and money. The floor was starting to rot, so I ripped it out fearing the worst, but the stringers were unscathed and the transom is solid as a rock.
The motor has great compression (all 4 cylinders within 5 psi of 115 psi), cranks over super fast with my brand new battery, and is almost uncannily clean. When you take the cover off you would swear the thing was just manufactured.
The only issue is...wait for it...the infamous ignition that I've been reading about on this and other forums for the past few days. The motor clearly already has a recently replaced CDI box, but it's bad again (power to the correct terminals when ignition is on, but it fails the lightbulb test).
So, I could buy the CDI box with coil for $230 plus shipping and call it a small price to pay for fun on the lake, but I know this will happen again and again (just google 1970 Johnson 85 hp no spark).
My question is: Has anyone found a way to get these early (1968 to 1972) 85 hp Johnsons to run reliably for more than one season per CDI? I really don't want to/can't afford a new CDI every season. I know about the MSD ignition mod, but I haven't found too many people who actually end up successfully getting that to work long term, and it doesn't really save you any money any more because the cost of the MSD has gone up over these last few years. I've also read one thread about using a 12 volt diode, but my electrical engineer friend says that sounds like hocus pocus (correct me if I'm wrong) and an improper use of a diode.
Also, I know some people have tried switching to condensor type ignition systems, but that doesn't last long and tends to destroy the distributer points as I understand it.
Here are my thoughts on the matter. These motors obviously ran for many years without problems when they were new. Only now that they are getting old do they chew through the CDIs. There must be something else that goes bad on these motors that causes this behavior. One thing I did notice is that with my ignition in the run position, I only have 11.8 volts to the amp, but 12.6 at the battery. During cranking, the volts at the amp drop to 9.7.
Could it be that the wiring harnesses have gotten old and need to be replaced/rebuilt? All the wiring is there and has continuity, but that level of voltage drop clearly indicates an issue.
Anyway, what's the current news on these motors' ignition systems?? Is it worth it to spend money on this motor? Any ideas?
Thank you and I would very much appreciate a response, and I will try to answer all questions thoroughly.

I took a 1967 17' V-hull fish-and-ski with a 1970 Johnson 85 hp V4 (85ESL70D) on a trade for a gun that was only worth about $300, if that. I figured that the fairly new and sturdy trailer was worth more than $300, and I knew that the Johnson was worth a few hundred in parts if nothing else.
Being close to Lake Guntersville and the Tennessee River, I was sorta hoping that I would be able to get everything up and working on the cheap and have some fun fishing, as I do enjoy fishing. At the same time, I new if it was going to require too much time and money that I could just sell it and make a profit.
Anyway, now that I've cracked into the boat and motor I am fairly optimistic that I can get the boat and motor up to snuff without too much time and money. The floor was starting to rot, so I ripped it out fearing the worst, but the stringers were unscathed and the transom is solid as a rock.
The motor has great compression (all 4 cylinders within 5 psi of 115 psi), cranks over super fast with my brand new battery, and is almost uncannily clean. When you take the cover off you would swear the thing was just manufactured.
The only issue is...wait for it...the infamous ignition that I've been reading about on this and other forums for the past few days. The motor clearly already has a recently replaced CDI box, but it's bad again (power to the correct terminals when ignition is on, but it fails the lightbulb test).
So, I could buy the CDI box with coil for $230 plus shipping and call it a small price to pay for fun on the lake, but I know this will happen again and again (just google 1970 Johnson 85 hp no spark).
My question is: Has anyone found a way to get these early (1968 to 1972) 85 hp Johnsons to run reliably for more than one season per CDI? I really don't want to/can't afford a new CDI every season. I know about the MSD ignition mod, but I haven't found too many people who actually end up successfully getting that to work long term, and it doesn't really save you any money any more because the cost of the MSD has gone up over these last few years. I've also read one thread about using a 12 volt diode, but my electrical engineer friend says that sounds like hocus pocus (correct me if I'm wrong) and an improper use of a diode.
Also, I know some people have tried switching to condensor type ignition systems, but that doesn't last long and tends to destroy the distributer points as I understand it.
Here are my thoughts on the matter. These motors obviously ran for many years without problems when they were new. Only now that they are getting old do they chew through the CDIs. There must be something else that goes bad on these motors that causes this behavior. One thing I did notice is that with my ignition in the run position, I only have 11.8 volts to the amp, but 12.6 at the battery. During cranking, the volts at the amp drop to 9.7.
Could it be that the wiring harnesses have gotten old and need to be replaced/rebuilt? All the wiring is there and has continuity, but that level of voltage drop clearly indicates an issue.
Anyway, what's the current news on these motors' ignition systems?? Is it worth it to spend money on this motor? Any ideas?
Thank you and I would very much appreciate a response, and I will try to answer all questions thoroughly.
