60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

I have a 60ESL71C over the winter I have:

checked compression (125, 123, 125)
rebuilt all 3 carbs
new plugs
new plug wires
new coil
checked and adjusted both sets of points

I still have no fire on # 2 cly

Any ideas what to check next???

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

Setting the points on that engine is critical.... quite touchy. Adjust as follows.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

*********

The only other thing that (in my mind) would cause a no spark problem on one cylinder would be that the distributor cap is arcing out to ground via a extremely slight crack in the cap terminal where the #2 plug wire screws in. You should be able to hear that arc if you listen closely enough.

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

no fire = no spark or #2 has a problem?

if its no spark then swap parts with another cylinder and see if the problem moves. if its not firing undo the gas drain screw and make sure that carb has gas in the bowl to start with

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

the points are set to .010

the local boat shop here told me to replace the AMPLIFIER ASSEMBLY ( almost $400)

could that also cause no spark only on #2 cyl?

I was under the impression that if the amp was not working it would be weak or no fire on all cyl's

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

wchrist939 said:

the points are set to .010 .... the local boat shop here told me to replace the AMPLIFIER ASSEMBLY ( almost $400) .... could that also cause no spark only on #2 cyl? .... I was under the impression that if the amp was not working it would be weak or no fire on all cyl's

Click to expand...

You are correct is assuming that if a amplifier was faulty, it would affect "ALL" cylinders. Since it is firing #1 and #3 coil, don't you think that would give the local boat shop a clue that the amplifier is functioning?

Either the points are not set perfectly (re-read what I had to say about the critical setting), or you have a cap shorting out.... assuming all the parts you've replaced are good and have been installed properly.

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

Now, here's a bit of trouble shooting you can do yourself or pass it along to the boat shop who will no doubt insist they install a new amplifier.

There is a plastic plug in connector leading from the amplifier that connects to a similar plastic connector that leads to the timer base. Unplug it. Remove all of the spark plugs in order to avoid injury.

With the key in the "ON" position, tapping thee lead from the amplifier you unplugged will simulate the opening and closing of the ignition points.

Rig a spark tester if you have one or build a tester such as one I list below, then connect the coil wires from each cylinder to it. Set the gap on the tester to 1/4".

Now, tap that amplifier lead on the block to simulate the point opening/closing while you slowly turn the flywheel. When the bakelite rotor under the distributor cap aligns with any of the three coil wire terminals, that will cause one of the coils to fire at the tester. By the same token, if the #2 terminal of the distributor cap is shorted, you will certainly hear it snapping under the flywheel.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

That's about as easy as I can make it. Let us know what you find.

Re: 60ESL71C No fire on # 2 cyl

thanks for all your help

now I have fire on all cyl's

now the timing os off How do I adjust ??