1979 Johnson questions

I am looking at buying a 1979 Johnson 115 (115TL79R) with power tilt/trim that needs a new stator. I have a 1978 115 (115ML78C) without power tilt/trim with a working stator and timer base. I am noticing that motors from these year used a 6 amp stator if there was no tilt/trim and a 10 amp if it had tilt/trim. My question is could you run a 6 amp on the 1979 with tilt/trim and be ok? Is there a difference in the rest of the electronics or just the stator?

thanks

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

I think you should be ok..but if I was going to pop that flywheel off, unless the stator was new, i would probably put a new stator in there..but I just do not like being stuck out on the water. old stator = unreliable. plus the fact that the 10 amp one will recharge your battery better is worth it just for that, especially if you run lights, depth finder and so on. todays batteries are much bigger and more powerful than those old ones from the 70s. most of the newer stators are 40 amps.
but if money is that tight throw that 6 amp one on there, it should work, I would at least DVA test it though.

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

Sparkie,
Thank you for the quick reply. I will eventually install the 10 amp, but I think the 6 should get me through the season without any problems. I also have the puller to remove the flywheel so that is not too big of an issue. The 6 amp stator that I have has very few hours on my parts motor has very few hours on it as it was replaced not too long before the #3 cylinder melted down. I have the tech manual for these motors and have read the section on testing this multiple times, but I am still a little confused. I also read through CDI's troubleshooting manual for this motor. My question is when I go to do the DVA test. Which wires am I supposed run the test on? Also, should I be changing any other parts when installing the 6amp stator? I am unsure if there are any other electrical parts need to be running off the same amps.

Thanks Again

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

you may need to change out the rectifier/regulator, I am not sure. check and see if they had different part numbers listed or if they are the same. you need a DVA adapter, about $25 in the link in my sig below. the CDI guide tells you exactly what wires to test and what the readings should be, I am not sure what color the wires are on a motor that old, but generally you have 1 or 2 pair of brown wires coming from the stator to the power pack(s), these should be 150v or higher. a good set of piercing probes are helpful. I remove my spark plugs and put them in the wires and lay them on the block when I do DVA test, make sure you have a fully charged battery.

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

I have ordered the DVA adapter that you recommended and will run the test once it come in the mail. I also forgot to ask this in my original post. The seller I am looking to purchase this motor from said that the mechanic who looked at it said that the rotor and stator were worn and that was what needed to be replaced. I am not familiar with the term rotor on outboards and cannot seem to find it in the parts diagrams. Is there another term for this? I was thinking that he might be referring to the timer base?

Thanks

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

I am not sure what he is referring to either, no rotor on modern outboards. maybe the timerbase or maybe he meant the flywheel magnets. I would find out before forking out $$$. I mean you can get to the point where you can get a newer and better motor for not much more than parts to fix your old one, it adds up quickly. I would pressure test the gear case also, and maybe even drain the old oil out and see how it looks, also look for water intrusion and metal shavings. I have a 1995 115 Evinrude that is ready to go that I will let go for $1500.

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

Ok, that is what I was thinking too, but I will definitely check into it before spending any money. I should have all working parts to replace any ignition components on this motor as my parts motor was running fine until the cylinder melted down. If I purchase the motor I am planning on replacing the impeller and the gear lube as you can never be too cautious with a motor you don't know the full history of.

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

I was re-reading the CDI troubleshooting guide and noticed that there is a section for motors with quick start and motors with out it. Im not sure what this is exactly? Also is the DVA test to be done with the motor cranking?
Thanks

Re: 1979 Johnson questions

yes DVA test is done with engine cranking, the rectifier/regulator wires are checked with engine running. you do not have quick start.