Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

drumz2129

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
37
I picked up a '78 evinrude 115 that had caught fire after a fishing trip which resulted in a wreck that broke the motor free from the transom as the boat burned to the ground. The starboard cowling pan seems to have taken the hit from the pavement along with the prop. I gave $25 for the motor hoping to be able to use the lower unit on my 140 rebuild.

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I began stripping all the burned bits and pieces from the power head this weekend. The carbs along with all electrical are shot. I pulled a the heads to see what the bore looks like and from what I can see there is hardly any wear. The cross hatching is still present.

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From talking to the previous owner, the motor was fairly new with very little use when the wreck happened and has been sitting in the back of the garage for over 25 years. The cylinder walls were dry but felt like the gas/oil had dried and left behind a paraffin like layer, keeping it from rusting. I wiped down the cylinder walls with oil to keep them clean.



I am thinking of bolting the heads back on, using a spare starter I have and doing a compression check. If the compression checks good, I may use this power head on my rebuild instead of the used, but running '78 115 johnson, since it has such a clean and tight bore.

With the heads bolted on and the intake blanked off, would it be safe to put the entire power head in my blast cabinet to get the old paint/oxidation/burnt electrical remnants off? What type of primer and paint should I use to repaint? I will strip the block all the way down to inspect everything for melting/fire damage but would prefer not to split the case.
 

RogersJetboat454

Commander
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Jul 9, 2010
Messages
2,964
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

I don't know man, this motor seems like it's got some bad Ju-Ju surrounding it. Maybe the person on the assembly line who was putting it together was killed by it in a horrible industrial accident. :D

You say the motor broke free from the transom? Was it on land or in the water? If it did get submerged, then pulled and not quickly cleaned out then there is a good chance the crank case sat with water in it for a very long time, which means the bearings and crank surfaces may be rust dust at this point (especially if this happened in salt). If I were you, I would be pulling the power head apart to inspect everything (if it did take a dunk).

I would also refrain from sticking anything in a blast cabinet thats assembled, since you can not thoroughly clean INSIDE and out. That's just asking for trouble, no matter how well you think you sealed it. A myriad of wire brushes and scrapers would be better, or a paint stripper that's safe for aluminum.
 

j_k_bisson

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
1,082
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

Parts cleaners!!!!!

It melts old paint like mad! It will take about 5 to 6 cans though. Soak it good and scrub with brass brushes (don't want a fire again). I did mine and it took all the old paint off.

Also might want to tear it down. How do you know that the block did not warp when on fire? Also if you just want to give it a go for Sh*ts and Giggles, then bolt every thing together and mix your oil triple the amount for the first fire up. That way you coat everything. But the proper way is tear down and go thru everything.

PS might want to spray everything down interanally that you can get to with a squit bottle of 2 stroke oil. That way nothing is dry when you fire it up. It surrely is now.....
 

drumz2129

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
37
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

Rogers, the motor from transom dismount was on dry land doing down the road. Here is the story I was given, they had been out fishing all day, loaded the boat on the trailer and headed home. Going down the highway they noticed the boat was on fire which resulted in a wreck, loosing the boat from the trailer which broke the motor free of the transom, breaking the top mounting ears and pulling the lower mounting bolts through the transom.

From looking at the motor, it appears that the fire spread to the motor from the boat up the fuel line since the fuel pump/wiring harness/starter/solenoid area was burnt the most. The starboard side had very little fire damage and still has original paint. It does not appear that it was a very hot fire or burned very long, just enough to melt the insulation on the wiring and bubble the paint.

Here is a picture of the starboard side:

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JKB, when you say parts cleaner, do you mean the spray can stuff from the parts house or stuff like agitene that you use in a parts washer?

I may go ahead and tear everything down just to be safe. If not I will take a borescope and inspect everything I can through the openings. I was planning on punching out some blank off plates (I run a CNC punch press) and bolt them on with some ptfe rope seal to cover the intake and exhaust to keep blasting media out. It will be stripped down to a bare block with the heads since I have to move all the electronics from my 140 over. Here is the thread from my 140:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=535167
If this block doesn't work out I have another 115 that is running with a heavily corroded mid and lower unit that I can rob the power head off. I just wanted to give this PH a try since it has such low hours and was practically free.
 

j_k_bisson

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
1,082
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

Yep the &1.99 a spray can stuff. I bought mine at Murrays Discount here in Michigan. I found the Chlorine worked better I think. But you will want to buy both and see. My memory is not what it used to be.

Oil the **** out of it.

Also the top got hot. I would deffinately replace the top crank seal. If not that top cylinder will not suck the right amount of fuel. Run lean.....

Just a couple of thoughts....
 

drumz2129

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
37
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

Yep the &1.99 a spray can stuff. I bought mine at Murrays Discount here in Michigan. I found the Chlorine worked better I think. But you will want to buy both and see. My memory is not what it used to be.

Oil the **** out of it.

Also the top got hot. I would deffinately replace the top crank seal. If not that top cylinder will not suck the right amount of fuel. Run lean.....

Just a couple of thoughts....


Thanks. How does this sound, I was already planning on getting a full power head seal kit, so I guess there is no reason not to open it up and change all the seals. What if I oil everything down from the openings, seal it up and bead blast the power head, prime then paint. Then open everything up, change all the seals and check the bearings. What else should I check when I have the case apart? If my exhaust stuffers are not warped in my smoked 140 I will add them and deck the block while the case is split.

When you say top crank seal, do you mean #4 or #6 in this picture?
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j_k_bisson

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
1,082
Re: Cleaning and Painting a burnt power head

both. If it go hot enough they are both smoked. Also the flange sealant. I recommend doing it right and going thru it for the long haul. But that how I roll......

Don't need to bead blast it. Just soak it down with the spray. It does work.
 
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