Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

On my Starcraft restore, I have machined a few parts from 6061 aluminum bar stock. Most are for the rear bench seat, which I am making the back removeable, kind of like a walk thru transom. I am wondering if anodizing is an option, and if anyone has ever had parts anodized. The obvious choice I know would be to paint them with the rest of the boat, but the metal to metal parts that contact each other won't hold up well. I'll have some sort of clamp or pin or detent barrel holding the back panel in place. the seat back (cushion) will be two parts each mounted to the panels so the back can come off in halves. Here's a couple pics kind of showing what i'm trying to say....so, just paint them and not worry about the contact areas?? Could I leave them raw being I'm in Michigan? (No Salt). The seat bottom structure is not in the pics.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

dj, If you leave it raw it will slowly form a dull grey coat of corrosion, It will seal itself like this if things I've read are correct.

If your going for a look then polish & sharkhide for shiny, or paint to match if exposed and you want it to match. I wouldn't worry about anodizing, my opinion only.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

you can get a clear epoxy from POR-15


http://www.por15.com/Clearcoats/products/6/

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

Check these guys , they do coatings for all kinds of metals.
http://www.caswellplating.com/
This is another similar to por-15 for colors for metals.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

I used Shark Hide for my bare stuff, so far so good.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

I picked up Mothers polish and its supposed to protect the surface. Love your splashwell mod. Your giving me ideas.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

MichaelP said:

I picked up Mothers polish and its supposed to protect the surface. Love your splashwell mod. Your giving me ideas.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll probably end up painting the parts with the boat. I could always have them powdercoated later I guess.

Something else I'm going to do is machine up a switch panel out of aluminum for 6 Carling switches and a power point or two. Does anyone know how to give the aluminum the brushed look? Also, the glove box originally had three squares of decorative faux teak and I'm thinking of replacing them with 3 aluminum inserts. I think it would look really good if these and the panel had the brushed look. Might even machine into them SS 22' V-5.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

I put a ghetto brushed look on some of my aluminum trim with sandpaper. I don't remember exactly what grit, but if you have a piece of scrap you can experiment with different grits or wire wheels or even scotchbrite. Your fabrication work looks great by the way.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

djpeters said:

Does anyone know how to give the aluminum the brushed look?

Click to expand...

First, a random orbital sander is no good, it leaves swirls. You can use a belt sander with the first pass at 120, then work your way up through the grits to 400 by hand. After that a 3M red metal sanding sponge to finish.




Then whatever your flavor to protect the alum from oxidizing.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

jasoutside said:

First, a random orbital sander is no good, it leaves swirls. You can use a belt sander with the first pass at 120, then work your way up through the grits to 400 by hand. After that a 3M red metal sanding sponge to finish.

Then whatever your flavor to protect the alum from oxidizing.

Click to expand...

That looks nice Jas, what if you had "Jas's Jet" engraved in there, then what?

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

Yup...

Once it's "brushed" then you could have it engraved, eh

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

Sweet splashwell and alum work man. Looks like it could handle a torpedo strike in the stern now.

Wanna make a double set of switch panels. I'm looking at doing my dash in alum as well.

That Por15 clear looks good. Por15 makes great stuff so in theory it should be ok.

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

Is the por15 like paint? Epoxy? Does it get really hard? I've never used any of their products...

Re: Anodizing or Protecting Raw Aluminum

It's some high tech stuff. Used for car chassis in the beginning but they've been branching out into other colors and products. They have bottles of a spray on then rinse degreaser and then a second product that etches to give the product something to bite to. I used the Whitecote product to do my trailer. You can hit my friend's car chassis with a hammer and that stuff will not chip or crack.

Not sure exactly what the Glisten stuff is like but it sounds like it used the same moisture curing as the chassis paint.

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/glisten%20pc%20directions.pdf

A Brilliant Two-Component Clear Coating

GLISTEN PC is a High Gloss, Rock Hard, Water-clear topcoat designed for spray or brush application over all metal surfaces, including highly polished aluminum and chrome surfaces. GLISTEN PC will not leave brushmarks, and will dry in less than one hour, but will take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness.

When GLISTEN PC is first dry to the touch, it will appear to be very soft. Avoid touching it for several days until it becomes hard and tough. Accidental contact could damage the surface before full cure has taken place. Like many other coatings, GLISTEN PC is a MOISTURE-CURED coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture. It will never crack, chip, peel, or yellow, and is very flexible as well.

Note: When applying over polished metals (aluminum, chrome, brass, copper etc) you must use AP120 metal prep according to instructions.

IDEAL USES: As a protective coating on aluminum wheels, chrome bumpers, marine railings, chrome or aluminum covers, grills, handles, ornaments, lights, etc




Introduction to POR-15?

POR-15? is a high performance, versatile aromatic moisture cured polyurethane coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces and concrete. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that does not chip, crack, or peel. Because POR-15? is non-porous, it is an excellent sealer for porous substrates and it completely protects from water, chemicals, salt, and mineral oils. The highly porous characteristics of most substrates and traditional coatings permit harmful elements to penetrate which initiates deterioration. POR-15? is the only coating that is able to protect and extend a surface or structures life expectancy due to its unique non-porous molecular composition. POR-15? is also able to withstand prolonged exposure to temperatures up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

djpeters said:

Is the por15 like paint? Epoxy? Does it get really hard? I've never used any of their products...

Click to expand...