Replacing propshaft seals, pulling bearing carrier / housing

mike__b

Seaman
Joined
Oct 21, 2010
Messages
64
I have a 1993 Evinrude 40HP. My propshaft seal started leaking about 6 weeks ago. I've removed the prop, etc and I'm getting ready to pull the bearing carrier. Is there any other recommended service to do while I have that out?

The history of this motor is unknown to me. I've had it about 10 months and when I pulled the prop, it looked like it had been 10 years since it had been removed last with all the corrosion.

I'm going to work on it while attached to the motor on the boat. I know you're supposed to drop the lower unit to disassemble, but after looking at the steps, it looks like it will be fine to replace the seals while attached to the motor.
Is there any point to try and pull and inspect the reverse gear, since it looks pretty accessible as well?
Are the needle bearings difficult to change and should I spend the $40 on parts and get those as well?

Does anyone know what all is included in the Evinrude gear case seal kit 0433550?

I plan to drop the lower unit at a later date to replace the impeller and possibly the drive shaft seals.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Replacing propshaft seals, pulling bearing carrier / housing

Just be careful not to push the prop shaft seals too far in. Space is needed between the needle bearing and seal for oil to circulate.
 

mike__b

Seaman
Joined
Oct 21, 2010
Messages
64
Re: Replacing propshaft seals, pulling bearing carrier / housing

I haven't seen the exact bearings used for this motor, but the ones I have seen have a solid end that wouldn't allow oil to circulate in and around the needles anyway. And in that case, the seals did butt against the needle bearing housing. The housing for the needle bearing in that case would act like a spacer in some regards.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Replacing propshaft seals, pulling bearing carrier / housing

All needle bearings used in this type of application have a 'rounded' side and a 'flat' side. When installing, always put the pressure on the 'flat side. It is no proper oil circulation system through the bearing, but if the seal is pushed into the bearing (touching) lubrication is reduced. Always leave some space between the bearing and seal. The original bearing installers will do that automatically, but if using a socket or similar, just e careful and do not push the seals too far in. There are two seals mounted back-to-back.
 
Top