1973 sport craft tri hull help

Ok. Start by saying, I'm 26, I have two boys. 6-4 years old. And our family camp and fish often, couple times a year we rent a boat. Recently I responded to a craigslist ad free 1973 sports craft 15' tri hull. Until this poin, t I had no clue what a tri hull was. I went and checked it out. Fairly clean, sturdy, no motor, no trailer. After reading your fourms, and relentlessly trying to find a site that would even acknowledge a 73 sportcraft bowrider. I have came to two conclusions my transit and stringers are rotten... Now I'm a handy man and can build anything, not afraid to find directions, but I am a man of limitations on my funds. This would really make a great impact on my family, and the boat is something else, for some reason I love it........ On to the question... Is this boat worth restoring? Or should I wait infill next tax period and get one that already fits? And if I did proceed with the project, could I get advise on where to get discount supplies? Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

First of all don't ever let someone tell you it can't be done. Personally I say go for it. Most of the cost is actually sweat and lost time with the family. The lost time with the family part could be remedied with involving your boys. Let them help out. Keep them away only when sanding or when you are using the resin. The rest of the work can involve them in some way. Your two biggest costs will be the Plywood and paint. A sheet of plywood runs you depending where you live 20-40 dollars each I did a boat like yours over a few yrs back. 7 sheets of plywood will do you. at worst 300$ for the wood another 100$ for the resin the paint will run around 200$ if you want it to last.

The quality and appreciation of the work you do.(don't cut corners) will be worth much more than the boat will be worth when your done. If done right the boat will last a lifetime. You will also know the boat is in great condition when it is finished. Buying a boat from somebody can be tricky. Problems can remain hidden until after you have purchased a boat. Bad stringers and transom etc. My advise to you is to do it yourself slowly and do it right the first time. That way you can be sure the boat is in great condition when you are finished no guessing. And by spreading the work over a long period of time will make sure you don't end up broke. The internet has all the information you need to get this project of yours done right. GOOD LUCK!

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

sea unt said:

Your two biggest costs will be the Plywood and paint. A sheet of plywood runs you depending where you live 20-40 dollars each I did a boat like yours over a few yrs back. 7 sheets of plywood will do you. at worst 300$ for the wood another 100$ for the resin the paint will run around 200$ if you want it to last.

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I have to disagree....... Your high end costs will be in Resin and glass materials.... Thats a total gut and restore.... Transom,stringers and deck.... To be done correctly will be more than the few hundred dollars.... more like $1000-$1500.....

Plus no motor and no trailer thats more $$$ It's a cool boat and all but for what you'll put into it you may be able to find something with a motor and trailer..... I don't want to discourage you by any means just stating facts......

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

For the cost of materials to properly fix that one, you could find an aluminum hull that's much closer to water ready. Where are you located?

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

I agree with RR and EZ Too! There are much better candidates for a restore whether they be Glass or aluminum. I think that one is just too far gone.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Its been said above, but I will restate; that boat is a major project both in time and money. You are looking at a couple thousand dollars between materials and motor, and that is if you get a deal on the motor. You are also looking at a couple of months of work minimum to get that all grinding, sanding, painting, etc done. Strip off what you can from that boat (I see a control, windshield, seat, etc), sell it on CL, add that to your budget. If you are looking for something simple to get out on the water and fish, you certainly can't go wrong with an aluminum boat and small outboard, which can be had in reasonable shape for less than $1000 with a trailer. Try that out for a while, and if it is insufficient for your needs, you can sell that to start a kitty for your next boat. I started out with an aluminum hull I bought for $35 paired with a 10 HP outboard I bought for $200 and a trailer I bought for $100. When I found that to be insufficient I sold it for $700, which started me on my way to my next boat...

Good luck

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

eavega said:

If you are looking for something simple to get out on the water and fish, you certainly can't go wrong with an aluminum boat and small outboard, which can be had in reasonable shape for less than $1000 with a trailer.

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Or an aluminum with a larger outboard. Something like this:

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Ok. With all comments considered and still not sure I began, almost out of compulsion tearing into this more. I got the top of the boat off the hull and most of the floor ripped up, with my boys help, and it was a great experience for all of us So as I'm cleaning up, a good friend of mine tells me his grandfather left him a boat when he died 6 years ago. And I can have the whole thing, trailer and all. We went to look at it. 15 ft. Fiberglass boat, bad shape, with a .......JOHNSON 90 hanging off the back. So... A trailer tire tomorrow. I have a complete setup. I guess its meant to be huh? My only question. When I put the stringers and the plywood back in the hull. Is it possible to save money by covering the floor with frp vinyl panels stuck with the best glue? Or would it be better to just use the resin?


P.s. thank you to everyone who has posted to this forum, being a beginner, I haven't the slightest clue about boats. But have been learning.

I'm in Indianapolis IN. Someone asked that...

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

As a rule I'm a "glasser" but this time I too go with EZ, you can pick up a good tinny fairly cheap (water ready) and if it needs a little work it won't cost you like the fiberglass will. But even if you go with a glass boat,you can find lake ready boats there too rather cheap as well.

Just a bare hull is not a good place to start building. I've often purchased rigs just for the outboard and scrapped the hull as hulls only are about worthless, hence free...

Just my thoughts......it's about boating season (already is here), and that one will never make it this season..

CW

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Thanks for your input cw but, I have a complete boat. And now a trailer and motor, and have not spent a dime. I don't have 1500 to spend on a complete setup. Hell I only have 400 in my bank account. So stringers and deck don't sound too bad. I may have to fix this motor when I get it. But so far I'm moving along pretty good. I'm going for it. And I will boat this summer in it.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Mike glad to hear you found a trailer and motor. If the motor runs it's a score for free. I would check the motor out first to be sure it can be used. I had a chrysler 14' tri hull and it was rated for a 60hp max..... check your boat for a plaque with max motor size... Do you have a title for this boat? Thats a biggie if you want to register it.

On the deck covering.....FRP is for commercial bathroom walls not boat decks! I have toyed with the idea of using it for an engine cover but not on the deck.

Your going to have to glass the deck to the gunnels (sides of the boat) anyway so might as well glass the deck and gel-coat it. Plus glassing the deck (both sides) gives you water protection and strength

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

mikehoncho said:

Is it possible to save money by.......

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This is the problem. In order to rebuild a fiberglass boat so that it is safe for your family, you're talking a minimum of like $800 in materials. You can half-*** an aluminum boat rebuild because the important structure of the boat (excluding the transom which is just plywood anyway) is aluminum and won't need to be replaced.

That Johnson 90 is a $1000 motor when running so that's a heck of a score there.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Ok. Long day... Showed up trailer tire in hand took the spare off of my camper, (I tiled a kitchen halway and bathroom for that. Got there at 11 and after hooking up, digging it out of the mud, chasing every species of rodent out, checking everything out, digging my f350 4x4 out, and a long ride home with the other tire blown out half way back. I have a motor. It looks really nice now that I have cleaned it out. I have a picture of the rats nest in it... I have a new fuel filter and air filter. And I'm soaking the top of the pistons in oil. I will attempt to start it. It does not look like the mice chewed threw any wire.... P.s. it came off of a 85 15' tri hull ski boat and the transom is exact height. It is a 90 Johnson with tilt. And some new wires I have a trailer that's perfect with title. Let's cross our fingers it will fire.... and yes I do have the title to the sportcraft, and the new boat too. But it has a lot of nice parts I'm gooing to use. The hull is worse than mine, and i do not like the arrangement of the seats...

Thanks for all of your support... Keep it coming


Now I really need to reinforce the hull and transom.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Glad to hear you haven't spent anything on the boat so far. My first impression was find something already running for cheap but since you got this far...

If you can find a place that sells resin in bulk (I buy from a place where you bring an empty 5 gal bucket and it's $38 a gallon) then next find a place where you can get fiberglass cheap (I buy woven roving 38 inches wide for $2.50 a running ft.) and $200 could take you a long way. Don't tear apart anything you don't have to. If the floor at the front of the boat under the windshield area is ok, leave it. Get Pressure treated plywood the same thickness as what was there and start drying it (it will need some time) really drying it.

Mean while, back at the motor, don't start spending money replacing and cleaning everything. Wind a rope around the flywheel and see if it turns or if it's frozen. If it turns disconnect the fuel line from the carb and drain the carb if you can. Pull the plugs, clean and gap them and then squirt a little fuel into each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. Wrap the rope around the flywheel and give it a pull. If the motor tries to fire at all there may be hope.

Not what everyone would do but if you ain't got the money and you wanna get out on the water...

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

I wouldn't use PT plywood too heavy and wet with chemicals...... 5/8 underlayment ply from your local lumber yard. Waterproof glue and no voids between the plys.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

rickryder said:

I wouldn't use PT plywood too heavy and wet with chemicals...... 5/8 underlayment ply from your local lumber yard. Waterproof glue and no voids between the plys.

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If it's heavy and wet I agree with you. That's why I would take the time to thoroughly dry it. A couple months of sun and air. When dry it should be no heavier than normal plywood.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Yes it will dry out over a looooong period of time. exterior/underlayment ply is just fine since it will be covered in glass and resin. The PT has no advantages..... if the wood is sealed properly it will last for many years.

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I don't disagree with anything you say with the exception of plywood with no voids and exterior glue being just a trip to your local lumber yard away. Plywood these days is full of voids, even the supposed good stuff and you still pay dearly.

Also, encapsulating the plywood will protect it completely...unless something goes wrong. If something goes wrong and moisture gets in, it will have no where to go and will rot. If water gets in, having a layer of glass and resin on the underside of the plywood will ensure the water will not get out. On that old trihull I don't think the hull was foamed so I would leave the underside open where it can always get fresh air, and water will flow through to the bilge.

I have a 1957 CrownLine runabout like that. Any water in the forward section has to flow through a weep hole where the front seats are, under the floor and out through another weep hole into the bilge.

If you use dried PT on the floor with the underside unsealed and open to fresh air and a layer of glass on top it too will last a long time. I'm just trying to give the OP a affordable option.

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

Pontoon24 said:

I don't disagree with anything you say with the exception of plywood with no voids and exterior glue being just a trip to your local lumber yard away. Plywood these days is full of voids, even the supposed good stuff and you still pay dearly.

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I'm a contractor by trade and my local lumber yard stocks underlayment. It does not have voids and runs $28 bucks a sheet of 5/8"
Please feel free to look at my resto link in my signature page 11 post #270 Look at the ends of all the ply I cut for the seats.....no voids....

Re: 1973 sport craft tri hull help

RR is 100% correct about both the PT and the underlayment. The new Arauco Plywood also has no voids, is a 7ply plywood, stays warp free and uses 100% waterproof glue as well. 42 bucks a sheet. IMHO there are no shortcuts when it comes to doing it right and safety of construction. The minimum I see to fix this boat, The RIGHT way is 6 -8 hundred bucks