1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylinders.

ryanhull76

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I purchased a very used boat from a friend last year. I came with trailer, cover, wet interior and rotted deck furniture, and the expected "It runs great and we winterized it: If you need help getting it running, let us know." All for the smooth price of $1000. Now understand, I knew it would take some work. The exterior is in need of some TLC, but I know jack-Squat about engines. I'm an IT guy, so bear with me

Well, 12 months later, and still not being in the water, I've come to learn a few things about boats and their previous owners.

In this post, I'll give you the background as well as my questions. Basically what I'm looking for is some advice on where to go from here.

The boat's engine appears to be a Chevy 5.0 OMC. When I first tried to fire it up, I got nothing. Checked the batteries and they appeared to have frozen when stored outside for 4 years. (Ohio weather.)
[Yes, you read that right, this was stored outside for 4 years with a crap cover which now resembles something you'd dress an extra in a Zombie movie.]

So off to Wally-World for new batteries. 2 new batteries, and we go to turn the key. "CLUNK" Nothing... I try again... "CLUNK" does even try to turn over, just a loud clunk noise. So I start poking around at stuff. I check the wires on the starter. (Not that I know what they do, but I figured if I looked, maybe I'd see something "off" and be able to solve it.)

So after poking, I added fuel. [I know that does nothing for a starter issue, but I figured why not. The old fuel had to be OLD so it should be changed for good measure.]
Still just a "CLUNK" noise, so I get automotively motivated. I know from somewhere that there are bolts that hold the starter in place. I expertly disconnect the batteries and switch the battery switch to OFF. I disconnect the starter wires and even photograph their positions in case I need to reconnect them.

I find 2 of the bolts that hold this starter in place and kick and scream my way to finding the 3rd, and eventually get this hulking mass of steel out of my engine compartment. Off to Auto-Zone I go to have it tested. They hook it up and hit the button. "Wheeeeeeerhhhh!" Aside from the cloud of dust that flew out of this thing, the starter works great! But on the other hand... "Damn, it's not the starter."

So back to the boat. I checked a few websites and see people talking about their boats not being properly winterized. So I pull the plugs, seeing as how that's a fairly easy task to perform, and I do have my trusty Craftsman Socket set after all.

I pull the plugs, and after pulling one of the plugs, clear water pours out of one of them. A lot of water... So I scratch my head, as I'm pretty sure water is not supposed to be in there. But it's not green, as I do know enough to know that anti-freeze is green. So I'm guessing, (literally,) that it's not a cracked head or blown gasket. And since it's been outside for half a decade, I supposed it's possible that water was either left in heat risers (?) or blew into the exhaust and into the engine from being left outside.

So I decide that the cylinder rings must be rusty, and that's what's causing it not to crank over. I've already tried to turn the pulley by hand up front, but this thing doesn't budge. So I spray WD-40 into each plug-hole for 30 seconds. I leave it sit for a few months and go back out. That's where I'm at today.

So this evening I go back to the boat and climb back into the engine compartment. I try to turn the pulley by hand, and nothing happens. I'm guessing at this point that the engine has some pretty severe rust build-up from having water in there, and there's not much chance to ever turn it by hand.

Also, I don't have a chain-hoist to lift this thing out of the boat. So I decide to dismantle the engine by hand and take everything out piece by piece. Now remember, I know squat about engines, so this was interesting to say the least.

Photographing each step I took, and every wiring connection and bolt position, I removed the 4 Barrel Carb. (I think it's a 4 barrel), alternater, some water pump looking valve thingy on top of the intake manifold, tons of crap bolted to the top of the intake, distributer cap, and eventually the distributer long thing with the wierd corkscrew gear on the end, the intake manifold, the exhaust manifolds, the risers from their rubber counterparts, valve covers and the top piece of the cylinders. (I think that's the heads) I did not remove the "valves" or their "rockers" as it appeared that I could get to the bolts without removing them. Hope I didn't screw that up. After pulling the bolts at the base of the head, I had anti-freeze going everywhere. with the head removed, I had some anti-freeze in the cylinders, So the following pictures show anti-freeze in some of the cylinders. (Lesson learned. Winterizing means different things to different people.)

So after pulling 1 of the heads I've stopped to check in here. That sucker was heavy, so I'm guessing the "block" is going to balls-heavy to lift out of there. No sense in lifting out more parts if this thing is an anchor on a trailer.

Take a look at the pictures, laugh at my learning curve and comment please. I accept all advice and criticism alike. I'm learning, and want to know how to take care of this thing. Next week I'm buying a engine mount (cherry picker?) to mount the engine to for repair, etc.

Next question. I now know how to remove heads. But how do I get the pistons out of the block and get to the crank, etc? I'm guessing since there's going to be extensive rust, that the cylinder wall needs cleaned, and at least the rings replaced. Is this something that this IT guy who is on a strict budget can perform relatively easily?

I'm going to find someone with a hoist to pull the rest of the engine out. How hard is that, and what all has to be disconnected to do so?

Thanks in advance! I do appreciate any and all comments.
And sorry for the book. I figured it was best to let you know all that I know and the story of why some things were done.


-Ryan
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Pics
Cylinders
cylinders.jpg
Intake Manifold interior after removing the carb.
intake view.jpg
Exterior view of the removed exhaust mani
exhaustmanifold.jpg
Top View of the engine.
engine topview.jpg
 
Last edited:

Bondo

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

and they appeared to have frozen when stored outside for 4 years. (Ohio weather.)
[Yes, you read that right, this was stored outside for 4 years with a crap cover which now resembles something you'd dress an extra in a Zombie movie.]

Ayuh,.... My guess is, she's been drinkin' water, down through the carb for the last 4 years,....

You need to pull the drive, then the motor....
Then haul all yer motor parts to a Machine Shop it get it Rebuilt, or buy a Replacement motor....
 

ENSIGN

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

You have to decide if it's really worth it??? You may want to cut your losses now!
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

I've been thinking the same thing about cutting my losses. I figure some of the parts can be parted with on ebay for someone else to restore/repair their boat with. Plus, the windshield is in perfect condition, as are various other bits.

The outdrive: How do I determine if it's still functional or not? I've seen those sell for appx $1000 on ebay.

The Trailer. Works great. How much could I get for that?

The boat: What do I do with it once it's been parted out?

Thanks!
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Bond-O - Yeah, that's what I thought too.

How hard is it to pull the drive on this beast?

Any machine shop should be able to work on this, right? It's just a Chevy small block 305

Thanks!
 

Bondo

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Bond-O - Yeah, that's what I thought too.

How hard is it to pull the drive on this beast?

Any machine shop should be able to work on this, right? It's just a Chevy small block 305

Thanks!

Ayuh,... Remove the 6 nuts, 'n the tilt rams, 'n the drive should slide right off I believe....

Yes, 'bout any qualified Machine Shop oughta be able to handle it...
The boat: What do I do with it once it's been parted out?

Haul it to yer local landfill, per their instructions....

I used to cut 'em up, now they tell me to just drag 'em in, 'n they'll take care of it, with their Huge loader...
A couple of swats, 'n most hulls are abit more than Dust...
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

What about rebuilding this thing? Is this something that would be worthwhile to persue?
 

Howard Sterndrive

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

probably be cheaper to replace with a new crate long block.

Only a machine shop can tell you if that damage can be cleared with safe limits of overboring after they clean the block up and inspect.
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

I'm looking into a reman long block, but how do I tell which one to buy. There's about 50 million different 5.0 long blocks out there.

Where can I look to determine which one matches my engine?
 

ready4lake

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Find the casting id number. It should be stamped just under the cylinder head on the right side. Once you find it search onlline and you can find the years that block was made. If your going to get a remanufactured block, just give the company the number and they can match it up.
 

Bondo

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

I'm looking into a reman long block, but how do I tell which one to buy. There's about 50 million different 5.0 long blocks out there.

Where can I look to determine which one matches my engine?
1989 Bayliner 2155 Ciera
OMC 5.0L V8

Ayuh,.... You need a motor from 1987 thru-1995....
Or, if ya replace the intake manifold, you can use a 95 to current...

I'd go with the 5.7l, 350 instead,...
All the accessories from the 5.0l will bolt right on, plug, 'n play....
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Bond-o, will that Cobra drive be able to handle the increased HP?

Ready for Lake, my engine has the valve cover bolts in the center of the covers, not the perimeter. I was told that meant it would be an '87 or newer GM model. I'll search for that casting number tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

(Also, I found a 5.0 long block on ebay for $1200 + $120 shipping. Is that a good deal, or should I beware? Similar for the 350. $1395+175 shipping)
 

ryanhull76

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Engine casting # = 74088548 (I really hope that's what you were asking for)
Also, if it matters, it's a 12 bolt intake.

Thanks!
 

Bondo

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Re: 1989 2155 Bayliner Ciera Cubbyw/Chevy 5.04vV8 engine - Engine has water in cylind

Bond-o, will that Cobra drive be able to handle the increased HP?

Ready for Lake, my engine has the valve cover bolts in the center of the covers, not the perimeter. I was told that meant it would be an '87 or newer GM model. I'll search for that casting number tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

(Also, I found a 5.0 long block on ebay for $1200 + $120 shipping. Is that a good deal, or should I beware? Similar for the 350. $1395+175 shipping)

Ayuh,.... They used the same drives on both the 5.0l SBC, 'n the 5.7l SBC...

So, ya need a 5.7l SBC, 87 to 95, unless ya buy a new intake, which you allow ya to use the 96, 'n Up, Vortec motor...
 
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