What am I missing for prop install Chrysler 135 1977

seattle scott

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
113
Here is Frank's set up. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=533803&highlight=splined+washer ( See the first pic in the last post) I have the 3 parts that go on after the prop, the big washer, the little washer and the nut. I do not have any of the parts that Frank shows going on before the prop, including the first part that goes on ( the big thing, is that a zinc?) anyway I don't have a zinc and I don't have a thrust washer, or a splined washer ( with or without tabs that fold onto the prop nut. So what do I need?

I will post some pics if necessary.

Edit: I think I have the prop spacer or thrust washer F523099 that goes on before the prop, but I defninatly don't have the splined washer F523282, which I assume must be installed.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: What am I missing for prop install Chrysler 135 1977

The thrust washer is an absolute necessity. Without it the prop will ride back on the shaft until the splines jam. It will wear the gearcase.

The splined washer is a spacer for the nose of the prop shaft. Without it the nut and washer will not tighten down fully against the prop. The prop will slide forward and back about 3/16 inch. It does not need to be a splined washer, A brass, aluminum, or stainless washer 1/4 inch thick will do. Brass will tend to corrode, especially if used in salt water.

Again, the zinc is not absolutely necessary unless used in salt water.

also, remember that that set up is so I can install a Ballistic high rake prop. It gives more clearance between the prop blade and the exhaust snout. Note that in the first photo, I have used the thrust washed in the front of the prop rather than at the gearcase as it was designed.

For a regular prop, all you need is the thrust washer slid on the prop shaft with the tapered part facing the bow of the boat. Then the prop is slid on, a spacer is installed, then a washer and locknut.
 

seattle scott

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
113
Re: What am I missing for prop install Chrysler 135 1977

Frank you messed me up with your thrust washer placement. OK I confirm I have the thrust washer, see pic and set it on the prop hub in the corect (?) orientation, see pic and then I put prop on the shaft put a washer ( and another washer to cover over the splines, and then put the nut on ( nylock?) then do I put a cotter key thru the hole in th e end of the sharft that is designed to take the cone nut? I realize that if the prop ever backs off it is gong to hit the snout and chew that up and make a racket so the engine will be stopped before the prop flys off, but still I would like a bomb proof method to keep the prop on the shaft.
 

Attachments

  • compressed prop nuts.JPG
    compressed prop nuts.JPG
    40.6 KB · Views: 0
  • compressed thrust washer in place on prop.JPG
    compressed thrust washer in place on prop.JPG
    36.3 KB · Views: 0
  • compressed prop sharft with prop on.JPG
    compressed prop sharft with prop on.JPG
    35.3 KB · Views: 0

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: What am I missing for prop install Chrysler 135 1977

100_5944.jpg102_6415.jpg102_6412.jpg102_6448.jpg102_6449.jpg

Why all the fuss about the cotter pin? Sure it will be a safety BUT---later Force engines did not have an extended prop shaft and did not have a nut lock either. Some did have a Mercury type plate to keep the nut from backing off, but that was on Merc props. The only purpose for the extended prop shaft and hole was to retain the tailcone.

If you correctly use a nyloc nut and tighten it adequately, you will never lose the prop. In the first photo you can see the thrust washer, the prop, the spacer (in this case splined because I have them), a large flat extra thick stainless fender washer (again, because I have them--they preserve the plastic flare washer which is not shown.), and the nut. Note the conspicuous lack of a cotter pin or bolt.

Oh, BTW: That happens to be an old school bronze, solid hub, Mercury racing prop.
 
Top