Re: Can't get my 1956 Fastwin to run.
Sure. Assuming the compression on the motor is still good, after you remove the flywheel, you can visually inspect the magneto for any frayed wires or cracked coils. It's not uncommon for one of the wires leading to/from one of the coils or condensers to rub against the flywheel or crankshaft cam and become worn. You should also look at the points themselves. They will very often develop corrosion if they are allowed to sit too long. You can clean them up with some very fine grit sandpaper (400 grit) until they are absolutely spotless and clean again. You'll then need to reinstall and reset them to .020" using a feller gauge a shown in the previous links. If the coils have never been replaced then one, or both of them is surely bad. Virtually all original OMC coils failed in time. They were about the only weak part on these old gems. Thankfully, the new replacement coils are 1000 times better and only cost about $20 each. Once you've got the magneto straightened out such that you consistently get a spark that jumps a 1/4" gap you can move on to the carb. (A gap tester can be had at most auto parts stores for about $5.)
Once the ignition (magneto) is ok, you can move on to the carb. Thanks to the ethanol in modern fuel, varnishes and deposits can develop in the tiny passages of the carb and impair its function. You'll need to remove the carb, disassemble it, clean and inspect it thoroughly, then rebuild it with a carb kit. You can get the kit right here at iboats for about $25. Again, use the previous links to walk you through the job.
That's really about it. If you have good compression, strong spark and proper fuel delivery, it'll fire up. Here's a pic of what an ideal magneto should look like with all of the appropriate bits labeled. Hope it helps. Holler if you get stuck.
