Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

Hi All,

With all of your help last time, I picked up a new 2012 Lowe 1440M Jon Boat for my new 15hp. To start the fishing season, I'll be fishing a river in fairly heavy current, just after the ice goes out. Most boats have an anchor lock type system and that is what I am familiar with. It makes for easy one hand operation, while fighting a big salmon.

I have one problem. The front deck on the Jon Boat is lowered to a point approximately 4 to 6" below the top gunwale of the bow and I'm not sure I get access under the front deck to fasten bolt something through it. Anyone know if this is accessible?

Does anyone have set up where you have bolted on an anchor lock that extends out beyond the bow? If so, what type of anchor lock? Any pics? The Mod-V complicates this a bit.

I'm thinking a 20-25lb anchor because of the current. Got any online recommendations of where I could pick a good anchor up? I don't have anything close locally, although I've a bunch of old chain if I get in a pinch.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

One possibility would be to have a mounting base welded on; something like they add for foot controlled trolling motors but maybe a little beefier. If you don't know what I'm talking about I'll find you an example. They're pretty common around here. As long as you made it wide enough it should easily accomodate just about any winch system available. FWIW I've fished in tailwaters (anything from still water to very swift current depending on generation or lack thereof) for years, and having used Anchor Mates on several boats I can honestly say I prefer the old fashioned method; anchor, rope, cleat, and my hand. However, I've never used a twelve volt version, so take that with a grain of salt. As for what kind to get, I think the Minn Kota Deckhand is fairly well regarded.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

Thanks Incoop. I'm not familiar with the setup you mention. If you have a picture of the fabricated mount, that would be helpful. The type of locking mechanism I'm looking at is the fairly cheap lift and lock type system. Something like this one:

http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-Lock...83287093--**********.859035255--view_id.56679

I might even be able to weld or bolt a piece of flat bar stock across the front, forming a small triangle at the front, and have a second piece of stock to mount this lock straight out towards the bow. I'll keep digging. Thanks for the ideas.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

If you haven't already be sure to verify that can handle a 25 pounder. Here's an example of what I referred to. It's specifically wired and mounted on a War Eagle for a FCTM, but blank mounts just like it are widely available. You should be able to find one at any boat dealer that stocks aluminum boats.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

I just installed a Seasense anchor lock, mentioned above, on the bow of my Lowe A1257. Greatest and most simplest anchor handling idea for a small boat. I was just tossing the anchor over the side and cleating it off, but it became a hassle to pull up moving from place to place. Now I just pull it up to the bow and move and I can do that from my seat in the rear. I do bring the anchor on board when I'm running for a spot to keep it from banging against the hull.

The Lowe Vee has a plate across the bow so it was easy to drill and attach the anchor lock with #10 SS Machine Bolts with Nylock nuts. Simple to operate and makes it easy to move from spot to spot looking for those sea trout holes. Also, I use an 8lb. mushroom in the rivers, also have a 15 but found it was overkill.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

For years I fished the Delaware River between N J & Pennsylvania. Spring run off could REALLY get very dangerous to anchorin the deep center channel currents. There is ALWAYS a DANGER of submerged tree trunks , big branches, parts of buildings, steel drums & HUGE industrial storage tanks & piles of farmland Barbedwire rolling along the bottom............If they come up against your anchor line. ... Your bow is going under VERY quickly. Usually between.. 1 second & longer. Lots of ALL types of boats have gone under over the years. Hypothermia & shock are deadly paralizers then. Most times nearby boats pulled anchors & went to the rescue.

If you fish in any amount of current.
Be a boat that is farthest up stream of the group. You go under. Lots of people see / hear / your problem by the time you are drifting thru the group. Some smart boaters simply started their engines & dragged & raised anchor as they got in line with the drifting fishermen.
DO NOT fish alone in cold fast running water during the spring. It has been fatal..........NEVER EVER fish above a waterfall / dam. Most deaths were always from the people who went over the dam & were drowned by the rolling current at the base of it.

Anchor shapes are never critical ... IF....you have non- rock bottoms. jagged rock bottoms are erratic as hell to grab onto. In current the bow can almost be yanked under with a solid hookup. I was slammed against the motor very painfully on my first Shad fishing anchoring. Kenny was tossed off the front seat & crammed against the seat behind him.

That is why I DO NOT use any HOOKING type of anchor in fast water.
We use 2 ..20 pound anchors that look like long pieces of round steel pipe with a eye bolt in it and 5' of about 2" chain links on each.

The anchors MUST ONLY be mounted in the very point of the bow. We use the BOW, black assembly from a hand crank up company. Can not remember the name. Anyway we ran both lines in those pulley brackets that outboard cables run in. 2 SEPERATE lines & pullies along the right side up high to the rear seat person. At that location are 2 cleats that self lock the line by just weaving the line between the close spaced slots.

We BOTH HAVE BIG ... Bowie type knives strapped to the seat support brackets. That is so that either of us can cut both lines very quickly if we are being pulled under slow enough to have time.

It took us 2 years to figure out that ...ALL THE FISH.... can also be caught VERY VERY safely on the inside of a sharp bend in the river. Pick the neutral current spots that do NOT put you over them as the come up & into the circling resting areas. We picked the upper most part of the resting area.
Far safer than risking being yanked under. Russian Roulette in mid current.

Rich

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

Thanks guys. I'm pretty familiar with the set you describe for the Vee boats and like the convenience. I used this setup my whole like... hence the reason I want this setup for the new Jon.

The foot motor bracket might work or I might experiment with a small plate on the front of the boat.

Thanks again!

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

Great advice Cyclops. Hope many others read it.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

The bow pulley on my aluminum simply has a LARGE piece of EXTERIOR plywood from a construction site. Spreads the load nicely. Try to get 1 edge very close the the top rail. stronger & less flexing.

Good luck...........Stay at the river bend.

Rich

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M





I like this one better, made by Greenfield Products.

Have one on my 12' v hull, and my 14' jon boat.


Personally, I would try a lighter anchor first. You can always connect a larger one if you need to.

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

Thank you all. Cyclops2, I appreciate your works regarding safety on the river! Thanks for the reminder... I especially like the idea of the Bowie very handy. I fish the Miramichi River each spring after the ice out for Big Atlantic Salmon. It's a rock bottom, but there is always the chance of debris coming down river. Luckily, I've never seen, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen.

The 14' V aluminum I grew up in, would sometimes drag our 20lb cube anchor (non hooking), hence I was looking at the 25lb. I might get away with 20lb in the Jon. I do like the anchor above. Thanks Roscoe. Looks like the one Cabelas has... Just have to get the mounting bracket figured out first!

Thanks All!

Re: Anchor Setup for my new Lowe 1440M

There are a couple of reasons for 2 anchors.

Ease of handling. 1..15 to 20... 1 20 to 25 MAXIMUM.
If you get seasick in fast current from the boat going rapidly left & right ? Put both anchors down . I put them apart the same distance as the depth.
USE THE MOTOR to go side ways to let down the second anchor.

In rocks. It is dumb luck when you stop. So 2 increase the finding of a hookup greatly in a shorter time / distance.

My ledges are so bad I use a double line with a 6' piece of chain wraped thru a concrete block hole. I have lost 4 anchors there. The 2 100' lines on to the ends of the chain around a end hole. Stuck block ? Let 1 line go free. I always get everything back but the block. I also carry 2 small mushrooms for soft stuff & weeds.

Rich