Spray in Foam

Hello All,

Have a question regarding spray in foam. I like the idea of foam but in removing sections of my deck I noticed alot of voids and areas where when water got in it just pooled up with nowhere to go. I have a company that is close to me that does a spray in foam on construction sites called Icynene that comes in several forms open & closed cell. I think if I leave the deck out and have them spray in the closed cell which hampers water absorption I could get 100% filling of any open spaces there by eliminating any voids and areas where water can possibly stay. Excess foam can be trimmed back flush to the top of stringers and there would be no holes in the deck to plug up. Here is some info one the foam please let me know what you think...

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION
1. PRODUCT NAME
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is a trademark
for medium density, 100% water-blown
polyurethane spray foam manufactured
by Icynene. ICYNENE MD-R-200? is a
nominal 2 lbs/ft3 density, free rise material.
2. MANUFACTURER
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is made on-site
from liquid components manufactured
by Icynene Inc. Installation and on-site
manufacturing are supplied by independent
Icynene Licensed Dealers.
3. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Icynene?s next generation of high
performance products includes ICYNENE
MD-R-200?, a 100 % water-blown foam
insulation and air barrier material containing
resins with pre- and post-consumer
recycled content. This unique product is
a tough, low water absorption product
with applicability across a broad range of
substrates, environmental conditions and
climate zones.
It is a type III vapor retarder, with low
vapor permeance. It can be used to limit
diffusion of moisture through building
assemblies.
ICYNENE MD-R-200? insulates and airseals
in one step for maximum energy
conservation while minimizing the
environmental impact during manufacturing
and construction. Significantly reducing
air leakage means ICYNENE MD-R-200?
contributes to a healthier, quieter and more
comfortable indoor environment, while
reducing energy consumption and related
greenhouse gas emissions by as much as 50%.
The result is superior quality construction,
with higher comfort levels and lower
heating and/or cooling costs. Energy
savings will vary depending on building
design, location, etc.
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is applied by
spraying liquid components onto an open
wall, crawlspace, ceiling surface or cathedral
ceiling. There it expands approximately
30 : 1 in seconds to provide a foam blanket
of millions of tiny air cells, filling building
cavities, cracks and crevices in the process.
It adheres to most construction materials,
sealing out air infiltration.
Excess material is trimmed off, leaving a
surface ready for drywall or other codecompliant
finish.
4. TECHNICAL DATA
(Based on Core Samples)
Contains Recycled Content
Thermal Performance
Thermal resistance (ASTM C518)
- R/in = R5.2 hr. ft2 ?F/BTU
Average insulation contribution in a
stud wall:
- 2? x 4? = R16 (3? foam)
- 2? x 6? = R26 (5? foam)
ICYNENE MD-R-200? provides more
effective performance than the equivalent
R-value of air permeable insulation
materials. ICYNENE MD-R-200? is not
subject to loss of R-value due to aging,
windy conditions, settling, convection or
air infiltration; nor is it prone to traditional
moisture intrusion via convective air flow.
A FACT SHEET with R-value data is
available upon request.
Air Permeance/Air Barrier /Air-Seal
ICYNENE MD-R-200? fills any shaped
cavity, and adheres to most construction
materials, creating assemblies with very
low air permeance. Additional interior or
exterior air infiltration protection is subject
to applicable codes.
Air permeability of core foam:
ASTM E283 data:
- 0.0016 L/s.m2 @ 75 Pa for 2?.
ASTM E2178 data
- 0.0015 L/s.m2 @ 75 Pa for 2?.
All buildings, insulated and air-sealed with
ICYNENE MD-R-200? must be designed
to include adequate mechanical ventilation/
outdoor air supply. See ASHRAE Standard
62 ? Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air
Quality.
Water Vapor Permeance
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is a type III vapor
retarder with low water vapor permeability
reducing the amount of moisture that can
diffuse through the insulation.
Water vapor transmission properties:
(ASTM E96 Desiccant Method)
- 1.3 Perms @ 3?
Water Absorption Properties
The absorption of liquid water is very low.
Water Absorption, % by volume
- ASTM D2842: 0.57%
Burn Characteristics
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is a combustible
product and is therefore, consumed by
flame, but will not sustain flame upon
removal of the flame source. It leaves
a charred foam residue. It will not melt
or drip. ICYNENE MD-R-200? is
subject to all National/State and County
building codes regarding fire prevention.
Requirements for Thermal Barrier and
Ignition Barrier coverings must be met as
per the applicable building code having
jurisdiction.
U.S. Fire Testing
Surface Burning Characteristics
(ASTM E84) @ 2? thickness
Flame Spread ≤ 25
Smoke Development ≤ 450
*Flame spread rating not intended to
reflect hazards under actual fire conditions.
Plastic Piping
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is compatible in
direct contact with CPVC piping systems,
as per Paschal Engineering Study for the
Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance.
Bacterial or Fungal Growth and Food Value
Independent testing conducted as per
ASTM C1338 showed that ICYNENE
MD-R-200? is not a source of food
for mold; and as an air barrier material,
ICYNENE MD-R-200? restricts the
airborne introduction of moisture,
nutrients, and mold spores into the
building envelope.
Environmental / Health / Safety
ICYNENE MD-R-200? is 100% waterblown
and therefore contains no ozonedepleting
blowing agents. It is also PBDE-free.

Re: Spray in Foam

This is the same information from your other post.

Have you read the foam tips as suggested? Reading through the forums here ....... you will see many methods of insuring a dry and draining hull.

Where are you in the hull progress? From your other post I see you are looking for a donor hull? There are "alternate" flotation methods we have used.

The household insulation foam really will not prove to be easier or cheaper then the 2 part marine foam system.

Let's get some pictures up and see you get started.

The foam is only applied after the stringers, transom and decking are ready. You have a ways to go.

Re: Spray in Foam

Sure it *should* work OK and may be more practical than a D-I-Y pour in foam. In checking reference material, it seems like the density is about 2 lbs/Cubic foot, which is fine. There is some conflicting information about its being 'open cell' versus 'closed cell'.

You might want to run a test of your own if you can get a small chunk of it from the construction company as a sample. Weight it (somehow) Then, submerge it in a pail of water for a few days and then take it out and immediately weigh it again. That will tell you if it is absorbing any appreciable amounts of water.

Re: Spray in Foam

Hello Bob, thank you for your response. I have read through the info provided and did see that in a previous search I did. In re-posting I was hoping for some additional insight as to weather this product will work. My though is that with 100% filling of the voids there is no space for water to pool or seep into there would be no need for drainage, and even if a little got in being the product is closed cell and does not promote absorption there would not be enough to worry, about couple of drops maybe. As far as where I am in my re-build I am leaning toward the restoration, the more I read and see on here has made this seem more feasible. I am not one to just dive in and get over my head so I like to dot the I's and cross the T's prior to doing something like this. Pride of the restoration, bragging rights and having a good looking properly rebuilt boat are all on the plus side and is pushing me toward the build as well. I appreciate your response and look forward to hearing from any others with thoughts on the spray in foam. I know some are anti foam but I like the idea as I could cut a huge hole out of the hull and not worry about sinking.

Re: Spray in Foam

It should work ok. I doubt it will cost any less than pour in 2 part, but might be easier and save time. But I would pull a "plug" of foam in a few places to see how wet the bottom of the foam is. You can take a 1 1/2" pvc pipe, sharpen one end and put notches in it like a saw blade, and punch it down all the way to the hull (may have to use a hammer). Then twist it a few times and pull up the plug of foam to see down to the hull. If you have an inch of water down there you're gonna want to take the foam out.

Re: Spray in Foam

An additional thought regarding the process. You may want to inject the foam with the flooring (decking) in place as it will adhere everything together, adding to structural strength and sound deadening. The foam spraying company, may be able to accommodate that sort of process, if they have the proper spray equipment/nozzles, etc.

The process of adding the decking after the foam is cured and trimmed will not be as structurally sound (but easier to dis-assemble if ever needed)

Re: Spray in Foam

As clearly stated in the specs for the product... "This unique product is
a tough, low water absorption" For me, I want No Water Absorption. The Marine Pour In foam is 100% closed cell with no water absorption. This product is for houses, I would stick with products designed for boats. When you do your pour in foam I'm sure you will do a much better job of getting the foam into all the required areas and gettin it level. Proper drainage in a foam filled boat was, is, and will continue to be a challenge.

JMHO.