Hey guys,
I'm running out of ideas. Boat is a '88 Bayliner Capri 2150 with an OMC 5.0L in it. It has an aftermarket Mallory Unilite electronic ignition and has been running fine.
Last time out I trolled for a LONG time at idle. Right up to the dock, so never blew the crap off the plugs before pulling out.
Went out again and the engine wouldn't start. Occasionally it would "hit" while turning over, but never more than a single hit.
Took it back home figuring that the plugs were fouled. Pulled each plug, cleaned it (wet and slightly fouled), regapped, and reinstalled. Did them one at a time to make sure I didn't reinstall wires in the wrong order.
No change. Disconnected and ohm'd the Mallory Promaster coil (24990) and it ohm'd out close to the specs (I could wiggle the probes enough to make it go above and below the spec'd ohms by just a couple. Is that close enough?) Think it was 600 +/- 50 on the primary, and 24K or something on the secondary... Anyway, I *think* based on that the coil is fine.
I've got good voltage at the positive and negative coil terminals.
Ohm'd out the plug wires and they are all good. Tested the electronic ignition module per Mallory instructions and the voltages and operation were good. (Cleaned the optics out real carefully)
Visually inspected the cap and rotor. Nothing obvious.
Checked the engine kill switch. It appears to have failed open. Great, I think! Found the problem. Bypass the switch. Still no change... Grr...
With my timing light on any of the wires, I'm rarely sensing a spark. (Even on the wire from the coil).
I hate throwing parts at a problem before I figure out what's wrong. I'm kinda out of ideas and am thinking maybe a new cap and rotor might be the next step.
Ideas?
Thanks,
John
I'm running out of ideas. Boat is a '88 Bayliner Capri 2150 with an OMC 5.0L in it. It has an aftermarket Mallory Unilite electronic ignition and has been running fine.
Last time out I trolled for a LONG time at idle. Right up to the dock, so never blew the crap off the plugs before pulling out.
Went out again and the engine wouldn't start. Occasionally it would "hit" while turning over, but never more than a single hit.
Took it back home figuring that the plugs were fouled. Pulled each plug, cleaned it (wet and slightly fouled), regapped, and reinstalled. Did them one at a time to make sure I didn't reinstall wires in the wrong order.
No change. Disconnected and ohm'd the Mallory Promaster coil (24990) and it ohm'd out close to the specs (I could wiggle the probes enough to make it go above and below the spec'd ohms by just a couple. Is that close enough?) Think it was 600 +/- 50 on the primary, and 24K or something on the secondary... Anyway, I *think* based on that the coil is fine.
I've got good voltage at the positive and negative coil terminals.
Ohm'd out the plug wires and they are all good. Tested the electronic ignition module per Mallory instructions and the voltages and operation were good. (Cleaned the optics out real carefully)
Visually inspected the cap and rotor. Nothing obvious.
Checked the engine kill switch. It appears to have failed open. Great, I think! Found the problem. Bypass the switch. Still no change... Grr...
With my timing light on any of the wires, I'm rarely sensing a spark. (Even on the wire from the coil).
I hate throwing parts at a problem before I figure out what's wrong. I'm kinda out of ideas and am thinking maybe a new cap and rotor might be the next step.
Ideas?
Thanks,
John
