Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Hey everyone.

I recently bought my first boat for a 100$ and it is a 67' Astro Comet with a Merc 120 i/o.

Motor needs work same with drive unit. This I know.

What I am wondering is....

I have a couple soft spots on the floor. The floor was redone at some point and they put a cheep green AstroTurf stuff to cover the plywood/fiberglass. I don't know if the whole floor was replaced or just the carpet. Not what I want to do.

But at the end of the lounge seats behind the passenger and driver seat,where the floor meets the wall. ( i hope its clear) I have soft spots at least 2 the 3rd is between the two seats.

6313329f-194e-0912.jpg


They are not as big as they look in the picture there about 2X2

So my question is do I replace the WHOLE floor or do I fix the soft spots. My fear is If I just to the Spots its not going to be enough and I will have to replace the whole floor. But if I do decide to do the whole floor it won't be needed.

I want to do it correctly but If I don't have to I don't want to.

Any Direction would be great
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Welcome to iBoats!

Until you get the Astro Turf pulled off and cut the soft spots out and take a look below you won't know for sure. More than likely you'll be looking at replacing the entire deck. Soft decks also usually mean the stringers and bulkheads have issues. You should core sample the Transom while you're at it.

Pics are always helpful.

WelcomeAboard.JPG
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Welcome to iBoats!

Pics are always helpful.

View attachment 123124


Sorry I added a photo to the original post.

I sure hope I dont have to repair the stringers. If I do, do I need to remove the motor?

I did the sounding the hull and feel the transom is sound. I hope.

another question is...

Apart of the keel was repaired also feels hard but doesn't look too hot wasn't hard nor was it sanded or painted. I will add a picture when I can.

but towards the bow, about 2ft above the keel about where the floor is connected to the wall I can see light coming threw area of about the size of a 2" X 3". Its not a hole just looks like when they repaired the spot they didn't put pigment in the resin. Its a hard on both sides.

So do I cut the Repairs out and redo them or do I sand them and Paint them.
I will add pictures Saturday while I am working on the motor.
 

JDA1975

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
1,385
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

I recently became a new boater myself, knew the floor had some bad spots and assumed that repairing it would work, but thanks to the folks here, I realized that doing it right and replacing the deck was the way to go...those 2 soft spots that I had were definitely worse than I thought.

The good news is, that with the forums help, this job wont be as hard as you might think. If you decide to tear into it, you wont be alone, there are a lot of helpful people here that really know their stuff
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

The only way to be sure that the transom is sound is to drill into it at various locations and check the shavings. Same for the stringers. Post the pics of the hull repairs and we'll see what needs done on them. The rough stuff can prolly just be sanded and either gelcoated or painted.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Welcome to Iboats! I'm with wood, you need to start poking around. Usually when you have soft spots there are other problems. Replacing deck, stringer, ect isn't to bad if you have some coaching, and this is the right place to get it. Pics help us out more than anything, the more the better!
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Thanks everyone I'm headed to the shop this afternoon And will add pics of the keel

I will replace the whole floor I feel that it will be the best after hearing it from here
What size plywood ??1/2"??
About 3 or for sheets should do
Is there a plywood thats marine rated that I can get at lowes or home depot

When I cut into the transom
What size drill bit and do i go all the way thru?
If it is bad what do I do?


If its good how do I fix the holes?

Thanks




---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.310210,-122.277641
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

You can use marine ply, but you won't find it at Lowe's / HD. I like it, but most people go with a good AC exterior plywood....which is what I would use unless you plan on keeping the boat forever ( I have one that falls into that category, lol). As to how much, you will have to do some measuring, but that sounds about right. On the transom, just drill through the inner skin, close to the bottom. You don't want to go all the way through, just enough to get some shavings. Most transoms are about 1-1/2" thick or close to it by the way (the wood part). If the shavings are dry and "yellow" wood color you are good. Do this in several spots, especially around the drain....more than likely you will get something that is gray / brown and wet.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Aruaco Plywood is good stuff. 1/2 " should be fine for the deck. If your stingers are bad 3/4" Transom use a 3/8" drill and do NOT drill all the way thru. From the inside drill down down low in several places about 1" deep (use masking tape on your bit to mark the depth). If it's dry and good use 3M 5200 sealant to fill the holes. If it's bad use a circular saw set just shy of the depth of the transom and cut a grid into the wood then use a hammer and chisel to knock all the old wood off then use a 4 1/2" grinder with a rubber backup pad and 24 grit sanding discs to sand of the remainder down to bare glass. Same applies to the stringers if they are bad. Make sure and get a good respirator and goggles when you are grinding. Also long sleeves and talcum powder to keep the itch down.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Welcome Jdip83,

Like the others have stated, do some serious poking around, because if you are planning on keeping this boat for more than a few years, it will be well worth the effort to do it up right.

The guys here on iboats will not only give you great advice on what needs to be done, we will all cheer you on to keep you on track.

It isn't hard in a technical sense to do this kind of work, it is just a little physical:rolleyes:...

Be sure to ask tons of questions and post lots of pics.

Read through as many restoration threads as you can, 'cause in each and every one you will find good information that will help guide you through the process.

Have Fun!

Best of Luck,
GT1M
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Just so I'm straight with the transom
Drill with a 3/8" drill bit
From the inside toward the outer hull be sure not to go all the way thru.
Drill at an angle Down.
Drill around drain hole.
It's it's dry and yellow fill the holes with 3m sealant

I understand what todo if it is bad
But what do I do to repair it if it's bad?

Would I need to remove the motor and drive unit?


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.292793,-122.279281
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
All the pictures are of the repaired keel

The second one with the green is from the inside

The 3rd
Looks like part of the fiberglass repair as broken off maybe due to a air bubble in during the curing

The whole repaired part of the keel is about 8ft

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.292793,-122.279242
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272131.950392.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272131.950392.jpg
    27.7 KB · Views: 1
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272184.111885.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272184.111885.jpg
    39.9 KB · Views: 1
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272205.884679.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272205.884679.jpg
    34.3 KB · Views: 1
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272238.058351.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322272238.058351.jpg
    30.6 KB · Views: 1

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Transom: Yep you will need to remove it ALL. Check out friscoboaters thread. It has everything you'll ever need to know on how to do it. Don't need to drill at an angle just go straight in an out at various places all along the bottom 6" of the transom. Re-read my post #9 it tells you how to remove it if it's bad.

Keel: You will need to grind on the inside and lay a couple of layers of CSM and a Layer or two of 1708 biax. Then grind on the outside and laye a couple more layers of csm and possibly a layer of 1708 as well. I really needs to be reinforced from the looks of it.
 

BWT

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
363
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

One tip on what to look at for ply; in a pinch last year I needed to get some "marine" grade ply for a project. Typically I order this from the east coast (I'm in Wisconsin), but I didn't have to time for wait for shipping (about a week). Decided to check out the big box stores. Home depot was crap (at least my local store carried garbage).

Went to Menards and looked through their high end ply (it's in a different section that the exterior/construction stuff). Came across some hardwood (I believe it was aruaco; it was in their "cabinet grade area") that was stamped WBP in the lower corner of the sheet. WBP = water / boil proof glue. Look for this stamp; it's fairly small. Could be stamped on one of the faces, or along one of the edges...

This is the same type of glue that is used in true marine grade (Okoume and Merranti which has a BS1088 rating (BS = British Standard and is backed by Lloyds of London; TRUE marine grade but roughly $300 a sheet for 3/4"). Not saying that the stuff from Menards is as good as the real deal, but if it's properly treated before installation it is a VERY cost worthy alternative.

To be honest, unless you're doing a job for hire on a high-er end boat, the menards ply is what I would recommend. It will certainly outlast your time owning the boat (and well into the next owner :)) if it's done correctly..

Hope this helps!

~BWT
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Transom: Yep you will need to remove it ALL. Check out friscoboaters thread. It has everything you'll ever need to know on how to do it.

I found it his threads on Youtube what a Great guy. He makes it look easy. Monday Im gonna start to remove the Drive and then the motor. Then I can work on both at the same time. (when I get frustrated with one I can move to the other)

Thank you

>>>BWT>>>

Thank you for the Ideas on ply. will have to look around.
I dont think there is a Menards in the Napa Area or Bay Area. But I will keep my eye out for WBP Stamp.
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

I need help selecting the Fiberglass mat I will need.

For the Deck/floor?

And for the repair on the inside floor
And for the Repair on the Keel.

Epoxy resin
Polyester resin.

The only place near me to get the materials are at Tap Plastics. www.tapplastics.com
Tap Plastics is the site and they have a Boat section but thru all the Threads I have read the numbers (1708) don't come up.

thanks guys.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Check out the sticky thread at the top of the resto page titled, "How to's and other great information", #2 and #11.

That will get you started...

Another place to check for info and possible ordering is USComposites.

Also, check for nearby marinas and try to find out where they get their supplies...

Also look in the internet for fiberglass suppliers in your area...

Later,
GT1M
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

You'll find that buying resin locally will save you a lot on shipping, poly has a "hazardous shipping fee". Make sure you get a laminating resin, that is what you need for most of your work. Its a non-waxed resin, which will save you a lot of sanding between coats. Stay away from the resin at the big box store. Here are some helpful tips from the place I buy mine, very helpful people.

http://www.fiberglasssite.com/servlet/the-68/Fiberglass-Information%2C-and-How/Detail
 

Jdip83

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
43
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

So a little update

I bought a different boat.
So I put the boat up for sale and didn't get any hits. So I decided to scrap/ trash it. I removed all the cleats and aluminum pieces I could sell or scrap.
While pulling the motor The front engine mount basically pulled right out of the rotten floor. The whole transom mount for the drive unit was corroded on the bottom. The transom was rotten at the very bottom. I drilled the transom in a bunch of spots but all were fine It was only around by the bilge area. I have made a bunch of mistakes on this boat.
So I hope I did it right with the this new boat.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Soft spot Repair or Whole floor???

Soooo... What did you get and what did you do to ensure that it is a Sound Craft?
 
Top