Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

Just bought a boat at the end of this season after it had already been winterized. Therefore seller de-winterized boat, we took it on a test ride and then he had the "mechanic" re-winterize. He supposively hooked up muffs with antifreeze and then fogged the engine. I think the "mechanic" is a friend of the sellers. Therefore I would like a little extra piece of mind knowing the boat is properly winterized, since I prefer to do it myself or know who I am hiring.

So for a little piece of mind, I decided to do some extra steps I saw on youtube. I would like someone to verify that the hoses are the correct hoses and my procedure is not damaging something.

- Removed large hose #1 at thermostat. Pour AF down big hose until it filled up block and came back out the thermostat where I had remove the hose from. Re-connected hose.

- Removed hoses #3 and #4 which go to the risers. I poured about 1/2 gallon of AF in each one before running out. I never heard it drop out the exhaust.



Engine is 97 7.4L. I also just replaced the oil, oil filter and outdrive gear lube today. Do you know how long it takes 7 quarts of cold engine oil to get sucked up one of those vacuum extraction pumps in 40 degree weather? I do: 4 hours!

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

If you drained the block and manifolds first, then filled thru the hoses your ok.
If not, your still at risk.

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

I'm not attempting to re-do the entire AF winterizing from scratch (by draining). I'm just doing a little "extra" for piece of mind. I assume the mechanic did the flush properly. So I have his flush as well as topping off those hoses with AF. I used 1-1/2 gallons total.

I'm really checking that backfilling the engine block like that is correct. It seemed to be nearly empty considering it took almost a full gallon of AF, but I have no idea of the full capacity or if it slowly drains out somewhere.

Thx

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

An engine full of A/F won't take anymore. That engine might take 3 gals. when the block is empty. Manifolds another gallon maybe. Why not just drain it? So nothing is at risk! Don't forget the sea-water pump & oil cooler.

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

pyrotek said:

I assume the mechanic did the flush properly.

Click to expand...

I assume you can afford a new block in the spring. Sorry I am in a bad mood this evening, but it is wise to never assume anything.

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

pyrotek said:

Just bought a boat at the end of this season after it had already been winterized. Therefore seller de-winterized boat, we took it on a test ride and then he had the "mechanic" re-winterize. He supposively hooked up muffs with antifreeze and then fogged the engine. I think the "mechanic" is a friend of the sellers. Therefore I would like a little extra piece of mind knowing the boat is properly winterized, since I prefer to do it myself or know who I am hiring.

So for a little piece of mind, I decided to do some extra steps I saw on youtube. I would like someone to verify that the hoses are the correct hoses and my procedure is not damaging something.

- Removed large hose #1 at thermostat. Pour AF down big hose until it filled up block and came back out the thermostat where I had remove the hose from. Re-connected hose.

- Removed hoses #3 and #4 which go to the risers. I poured about 1/2 gallon of AF in each one before running out. I never heard it drop out the exhaust.

Engine is 97 7.4L. I also just replaced the oil, oil filter and outdrive gear lube today. Do you know how long it takes 7 quarts of cold engine oil to get sucked up one of those vacuum extraction pumps in 40 degree weather? I do: 4 hours!

Click to expand...

OK, piece of mind Rx for you . . .

Disconnect the opposite ends of hoses #3 & #4 where they connect to the exhaust manifold. It is a little hard to tell from the pic., and your engine is slightly different than my Merc 7.4L, but I assume that #3 & #4 lead down to the lower side of the exhaust manifolds and not straight into the riser/elbow portion. Anyway, the idea is to get the whole thing to drain into the bilge.

Next disconnect the lower side of hose #1 where it connects to the 're-circulating pump' (aka water pump). let it drain. Then, if you can find them - open up the bronze looking drains on the lower part of the engine block. Anti-Freeze should flow out of those drains.

The reason that you do this extra stuff is because the anti-freeze may not have thoroughly purged all of the plain water in the engine and the manifolds. Draining these things down will give you added protection, in case the guy who winterized was to quick with the anti-freeze.

The sea water pump and the oil cooler should have plenty of A-F in them as they are the first things that the A-F goes through and will easily purge the plain water.

Send me a P.M. if you have any questions about your engine.

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

As Ted suggests, drain the entire engine (block, heads, thermostat housing and water pump), and drain the manifolds. The old adage 'Air don't freeze' is worth listening to. If there is nothing in the engine that can freeze, you can't end up with a cracked block come spring....

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

Well I would agree the best way to be 100% sure is to drain everything, I also believe keeping fluids inside will reduce corrosion and is a better solution - but that is only my intuition, not experience. So what to do?

The hoses #3 and #4 go into the very bottom of the risers and there is a drain plug on the bottom which I have opened briefly to check the color - it was pink. I don't know where the engine block drain plugs are. Perhaps instead I can do one of the following:
- Drain a tiny bit of the fluid and test it using an antifreeze tester
- Drain all of it and recollect it all, test it, and then pour it all back in

Are either of these ideas worth it? I got the answer I was looking for, so thank you. I now have to consider how much additional work I want to go through to reduce already minimal risk. Again, I have no reason to believe the mechanic did not flush it properly.

tpenfield: If I can find the engine drain plugs, is it still needed to disconnect the other side of hose #1 near the water pump? I would think the engine drain plugs are lower.

Thanks!

Re: Please verify Pic: Winterizing of the engine block

pyrotek said:

Well I would agree the best way to be 100% sure is to drain everything, I also believe keeping fluids inside will reduce corrosion and is a better solution - but that is only my intuition, not experience. So what to do?

The hoses #3 and #4 go into the very bottom of the risers and there is a drain plug on the bottom which I have opened briefly to check the color - it was pink. I don't know where the engine block drain plugs are. Perhaps instead I can do one of the following:
- Drain a tiny bit of the fluid and test it using an antifreeze tester
- Drain all of it and recollect it all, test it, and then pour it all back in

Are either of these ideas worth it? I got the answer I was looking for, so thank you. I now have to consider how much additional work I want to go through to reduce already minimal risk. Again, I have no reason to believe the mechanic did not flush it properly.

tpenfield: If I can find the engine drain plugs, is it still needed to disconnect the other side of hose #1 near the water pump? I would think the engine drain plugs are lower.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

The drain plugs for the engine block should be right along where the oil pan mates to the engine block. if you can find them, then you can just loosen the top of 'Hose #1' instead of disconnecting the lower end.

Pink color liquid is anti-freeze, really no need to test. If you run anti-freeze through the cooling system, you will get some benefit of coating things with it rather than water. It is hard to say if there will be any benefit to leaving it in the engine from a rust/corrosion standpoint.