You can read about the saga that started all of this over here: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=520824
Short story: Old original 1988 block cracked - got a replacement 1992 4.3l truck engine to rebuild into a boat engine.
Starting a new thread over here to discuss a specific matter. I'm at a cross roads and can't decide what to do. I'm hoping you guys have some good talking points so I cam make up my mind.
The truck engine I got was rebuilt once already - I knew this when I bought it. What I found, however, is that it was bored .060" oversize already. Everything looks to be in good shape once I stripped it down. I'm just nervous. I don't like that it was bored so much. I've read several posts that state you really shouldn't go past .030 with the 4.3l engine. This one is already twice that. Then again, it has been running fine at .060" for 100k miles. My concern is that it will be stressed a lot worse as a boat engine. I wouldn't hesitate putting this back in a car, but I realize there are a lot of additional stresses on a boat engine.
I did basic cylinder bore measurements, and everything appears to be in spec as far as taper and out of round. In fact, everything is coming back pretty perfect at 4.060". Then again, I just have basic bore tools, so a .002" difference could escape me.
So, here are my options:
#1: Run the shortblock AS-IS. Just throw the heads / boat intake & carb / accessories back on this block and run it. This is simple and cheap, but probably my least favorite option, because who knows the condition of the rings & bearings on this shortblock, and I could end up pulling it again to repair what I could have fixed right now.
#2: I'm being too nervous - take it to a machine shop, have them check it out, hone it, put in new rings & bearings, and be happy that I have a rebuilt motor. This is still pretty simple and a reasonable cost ($125 for rings/bearings/gasket set + machine shop cost).
#3: I have a line on another 4.3l motor within 15 miles of me for $200. Owner says it was in good running condition, and hasn't been rebuilt. It's also a newer 93/94 style motor with balance shaft (which I think would be a good thing). Strip this one down, rebuild it fully including bore it .020" if needed with new pistons, bearings, timing chain, oil pump, core plugs, etc. Probably looking at $300 for the rebuild kit plus machine shop cost.
I spent $200 on the truck engine, and I can probably pretty easily make that money back up by just selling off parts (was a full engine with accessories and Centerforce clutch on it).
Let's hear your thoughts guys.
Short story: Old original 1988 block cracked - got a replacement 1992 4.3l truck engine to rebuild into a boat engine.
Starting a new thread over here to discuss a specific matter. I'm at a cross roads and can't decide what to do. I'm hoping you guys have some good talking points so I cam make up my mind.
The truck engine I got was rebuilt once already - I knew this when I bought it. What I found, however, is that it was bored .060" oversize already. Everything looks to be in good shape once I stripped it down. I'm just nervous. I don't like that it was bored so much. I've read several posts that state you really shouldn't go past .030 with the 4.3l engine. This one is already twice that. Then again, it has been running fine at .060" for 100k miles. My concern is that it will be stressed a lot worse as a boat engine. I wouldn't hesitate putting this back in a car, but I realize there are a lot of additional stresses on a boat engine.
I did basic cylinder bore measurements, and everything appears to be in spec as far as taper and out of round. In fact, everything is coming back pretty perfect at 4.060". Then again, I just have basic bore tools, so a .002" difference could escape me.
So, here are my options:
#1: Run the shortblock AS-IS. Just throw the heads / boat intake & carb / accessories back on this block and run it. This is simple and cheap, but probably my least favorite option, because who knows the condition of the rings & bearings on this shortblock, and I could end up pulling it again to repair what I could have fixed right now.
#2: I'm being too nervous - take it to a machine shop, have them check it out, hone it, put in new rings & bearings, and be happy that I have a rebuilt motor. This is still pretty simple and a reasonable cost ($125 for rings/bearings/gasket set + machine shop cost).
#3: I have a line on another 4.3l motor within 15 miles of me for $200. Owner says it was in good running condition, and hasn't been rebuilt. It's also a newer 93/94 style motor with balance shaft (which I think would be a good thing). Strip this one down, rebuild it fully including bore it .020" if needed with new pistons, bearings, timing chain, oil pump, core plugs, etc. Probably looking at $300 for the rebuild kit plus machine shop cost.
I spent $200 on the truck engine, and I can probably pretty easily make that money back up by just selling off parts (was a full engine with accessories and Centerforce clutch on it).
Let's hear your thoughts guys.