1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

SeaStar69

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I just bought an old runabout with a model # 35459 Chrysler outboard. The motor has never seen salt water, looks very clean under the cowl and starts right up. Once running, it will miss every couple of seconds throughout the RPM range. Compression is 95-100 PSI on both cylinders. I put in new plugs and a fuel filter and cleaned out the carb and fuel pump bowls. The previous owner replaced all of the fuel lines. I'm in the process of making a puller for the flywheel, but I'm wondering what I'll find under there. Does this motor have points or some type of elctronic ignition? There are no coils present on the side of the motor and the plug wires run straight up under the flywheel. I've got a manual for 66-68 models, but it shows coils and a rectifier mounted on the side of the power head.

Thanks, Jim
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Yours is a magneto ignition engine. Pull the flywheel and clean and set the points to .020. Be certain that both sets of points are set equally and at the same point on the cam. Check the appearance and condition of the condensers and wires. See if that doesn't help the missing

Chrysler made a couple of versions of this engine: Straight magneto ignition--pull start, magneto with electric start, battery ignition with electric start.
 

fucawi

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

you dont need a puller ,,manual shows a crow bar under one side ..loosen the nut a few turns ..crowbar under the edge and wack the nut ...Be aware that the keyway holds the timing ring so if the keyway breaks then the timing is lost ..Torque on the nut 85 ft lb no less ..if you have keyway problems come back I have seperate keys on mine ...
manual below as there are different versions.
 

SeaStar69

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Thanks for the info! I'm glad it's a magneto ignition - simple & reliable. I already tried the crowbar and hammer trick but couldn't get it to work. I'm also going to pull the carb and fuel pump apart for a rebuild, change the oil in the lower unit and check the water pump impeller before I take it out on the lake - I may have a few more questions the more I dig into it.

Thanks again,
Jim
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Picture 005.jpgSometimes the only way to remove the flywheel is a BIG 3jaw puller.
Wanna try this? I'll give instructions.J
 

wickware

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Thanks For The Suggestion Jerry! The Simple Harmonic Balance Puller (from a local Auto Store) ?ALSO? is better than the Prying and Banging on the nut in stubborn situations IMO. The Banging could ruin the nut and possibly more. jow
 

SeaStar69

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Finally got the flywheel off. Looks like the points and condensers are the ones installed by the factory 42 years ago. One was gapped at .008 and the other was.016. Both sets were pitted pretty badly, so I'm surprised it ran at all. The carb didn't look too bad, but the gaskets were dried out. Next step is to get the lower unit off and check the water pump and lower unit seals. I think it will run pretty good once everything is freshened up and set to factory specs.

Jim
 

wickware

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Were your point's rubbing blocks worn to cause the small gaps or just bad pitting? I have only changed my points once in the 80s after getting the small boat and motor in 85. All of my hesitation, backing off WOT and etc led back to dirty points vs needing adjusting or replacing vs cleaning. Finally, I determined I was putting too much oil in the cam?s wicks (now one, causing an oil looking vapor in the dist vs what I thought could be crank case blow-by from age). Attached are pics w/o the light wet vapor look in the dist. Post some close pics if you have time or request any (of my many) I might have since I feel we have the same motor. Good luck! jow
 

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SeaStar69

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

I hadn't thought of worn rubbing blocks, but that makes sense - there wasn't a whole lot of oil in the points area. These points are shot, though. There's metal transfer from one side to the other and pretty deep pits. My guess is that they were never adjusted and the condensers are weak. One thing that the Chrysler manual was very specific about was the type of lubricant to use on the cam wicks - Rykon 2EP. If that stuff is not available, what would be a good substitute?
Jim
 

wickware

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

Being Honest! Type of oil could have been my problem vs too much. I always used the closest motor oil I had from a 30 wt ? 10-30 wt in later years (that would soak into the wicks). I would hate to think that is that big of a deal but we should see some opinions. jow
 

fucawi

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

your most critical component is that long key joining timing ring to flywheel ..if it breaks ..thats common the engine will stop .85 ft ib on the nut !!!
 

orbanp

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 35 HP - New to Me, Runs Bad

I ...
These points are shot, though. There's metal transfer from one side to the other and pretty deep pits. My guess is that they were never adjusted and the condensers are weak.
...
Jim

Metal transfer on the points is also indicative of a capacitor with a bad value. Might want to change the caps.

Good luck, Peter
 
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