Kill switch on the control box

mav6759 · Oct 30, 2011

I have a 1998 Evinrude 90hp with an OMC Control Box. This is my first control box that has a kill switch enbeded in the key switch. I have having a problem with the motor starting and staying running. I was told that I need a kill switch lanyard. Can someone explain to me what a kill switch lanyard is and what is does as it relates to the motor.

Thanks MAv6759

Haffiman · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

On that system no need for a lanyard, unless the key keeps popping back to 'off' position.
On the older version, you had a separate switch that shorted the stop circuit, but on your model all mechanical. If your key will not stay in running position without the lanyard attached, replace the switch.

mav6759 · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Thanks for the reply. I was told by Evinrude that the lanyard was needed for the engine to run properly. It had something to do with the optical igntion system and sending a signal to power pack to start the engine. (something like that) Now I really could'nt tell you what type of control box that I have, I got it off of ebay for this type of engine. (All that's on the control box is OMC) I do know that this control box takes a lanyard. On the side of the control box there is a diagram of the lanyard with the words STOP and RUN. STOP with the lanyard out of the postion, and RUN with the lanyard in postion. Not sure what this means, I can look at it in many ways, does STOP means it won't run, does RUN mean with the lanyard in place it will RUN. Don't know.....

Thanks MAv

Xcusme · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

What everyone is trying to explain is this: A kill switch (like you have) is for one reason only, emergency STOP of the engine IF you fall overboard. That "switch" should come with a length of connecting cable , one end should connect to the switch, in the RUN position, the other , should connect to you. If you should fall overboard, the switch will be pulled to the STOP position and the motor will quit.
If you already knew this . please disreguard....

mav6759 · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Thanks for the replay, but I guess my question is if the lanyard is not in the RUN postion, will the motor start. Or do I have to have the lanyard in the RUN position inorder for the motor to run.

Thanks MAv

Haffiman · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Again:
If you have the newer version with lanyard attached to the key-switch, no need. The engine may be started and operated as normal without it.
The reason: If driver falls overboard taking the lanyard with him, those left on the boat may restart and pick him up!
The old version, the lanyard is connected to a separate kill switch. If driver falls overboard again. those left on board have to keep the switched pressed in with one hand, start and maneuver with the other in order to pick up their driver.
The newer version is pure mechanical, turning the key to STOP when lanyard is removed. However if the switch is mechanically worn inside, it may not stay in RUN without the lanyard.

mav6759 · Oct 30, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

OK, now that I have that question answered, I have an issue. I have a 98 90hp evinrude. I can't get this motor to stay running. I have had the motor looked at and here is what we did. First off the motor will start but it won't stay running. While i'm on the water, I have to quickly put the motor into gear for the motor to catch. It takes about 7 or 8 tries before I can get the motor to catch where I can get back to the dock. So now here is what was done. We replaceed the following parts; Power Pack, Coils, Optical Senor, Timing Cap, Starter, Stator, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs and wires fuel bulb and lines. We tested the power pack, it was good, we checked for spark, it was good, The carb's were just rebuilt, we checked everything on this motor according to the book and the spec's, everything was by the book and in range, compression was 125 on each cylinder. I have checked everything I can think of, and exchange almost every moving part, except the key switch. Thats why i was asking about the kill switch, I thought the kill switch had to be in place inorder for the motor to run, What am I missing, I am so confused.

MAv6759

Haffiman · Oct 31, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Have you tried adjusting your low idle with the 'LOW' tab on the optical sensor bracket??
You rebuilt the carbs, but did that include the valve housing behind the carbs?
Any reaction when adjusting the idle mix screws?

mav6759 · Oct 31, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Ok we made no adjustments to the crab's as or yet. We did make adjustments to the optical senor. We adjusted the low and high according to spec's. When he put the optical senor on his box and it showed it was bad. We exchange the senor and the box that he was using didnt say if it was bad or good. So l went and got another senor. Now this senor is showing good but I have the same problem. I'm at the shop as I write this, we are going by the book and we are trying to fix this problem. The guy that owns this shop just graduated marine repair school about a year ago. So he has all the equipmrnt to work on the motor and he seems very smart. We ran every test you could name according to the book he has on this motor. The only thing left would be either to adjust the carb's or change out the ignition switch. Any help anyone can provide would be great.

boobie · Oct 31, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

You've changed so many parts on this motor already, try an ignition switch to make everybody feel better.

Haffiman · Oct 31, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Is the quick start function working?

boobie · Oct 31, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Good point. Is the yellow/red wire going to to the pulse pack coming from the starter solenoid connected ??

mav6759 · Nov 1, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

The quick is working, On a whim, I ask him to check the Stator again. (I figured we checked everything else three and four times) After checking the Stator, the Stator showed to be bad. Now I just replace this Stator about 3 months ago. When he tested the Stator, he said the Stator was Grounding Out. (have no idea what that means) I realize I'm not the brightest light bulb in the room, but I'm still glowing.. I thought the Stator was use like an alternator in a car and its sole purpose was to keep the battery charged. I was told that the Stator could prevent the motor from running. Is this true.. If so Can the Stator be fixed.

Thanks MAv..

boobie · Nov 1, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Have him replace the stator under warranty, No Charge. The stator also runs quick start. Prob??

clanton · Nov 1, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Do not think the switch is your problem, but there was a recall of these switches. Your tech have a peakreading meter? Check the output voltage to the coils. Crankshaft wobble at timing sensor?

mav6759 · Nov 2, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

Thanks for all the help guys, I replaced the stator, now I have another issue. We replaced the optical sensor. My mechanic has this box, (forgive me I don't know what it is called) that tell you whether or not the optical sensor is bad or good. On the box it's reading that the optical sensor is good. According to my mechanic, he has to move the high and low speed tab's on the optical sensor until the light on at the top of the box goes out. There by setting the timing.. My problem is, the light is not going out. If we move the optical sensor itself, the light goes out, but as we move the tab's the light stay on. Does anyone have any ideas. We have tried about 5 times with the same results. Again, we are following the book to a T.

Thanks MAv6759

clanton · Nov 2, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

What book? Number 1 piston at top dead center?

mav6759 · Nov 2, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

My mechanic has this box, (an optical engine analyzer or something) anyway, it has 3 lights on it good, bad, and sync. (forgive me I don't know what it is called) its used to tell whether or not the optical sensor is bad or good and to time the optical sensor. On the optical sensor, there are 2 tab's high and low idle. According to the book we can be up to + - 4 degress from TDC. My mechanic, placed the timing wheel right at 4 degreesTDC , the sync light came on, on the box. The next step according to the book is to move the high and low speed tab's on the optical sensor until the sync light on at the top of the box goes out. There by setting the timing.. My problem is, the sync light is not going out. If we move the optical sensor itself, the sync light goes out, but as we move the tab's the light stay on. According to the book, the sync light is surpose to go out completing the last step. Does anyone have any ideas. We have tried about 5 times with the same results. Again, we are following the book to a T.

Thanks MAv6759

clanton · Nov 2, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

The OEM manual says the idle timing is 4 degrees ATDC. No -+. You also have to turn the crank and align the degree marks on the flywheel to the timing pointer, 4 degrees ATDC for idle and 20 Degrees BTDC for advanced timing.

There are 11 steps for idle timing, and 7 for advanced timing.

OMC EC 60 degree LV Service Manual P/N 520210 page 1-35, and 1-36

Haffiman · Nov 2, 2011

Re: Kill switch on the control box

The 'system' is fairly simple when using the box.
As we are dealing with a light beam as trigger and not a magnetic field, the advance setting might be done static, engine not running. Beam open -light ON, beam broken -light OFF.
The ignition triggers, when running in normal temp mode, when light beam is 'broken' and in cold start when light 'opens'.
1: Verify the engine TDC corresponds with the pointer at TDC, and adjust if needed.
2: Set INITIAL idle timing (4 degr) by turning flywheel to pointer is at 4 ATDC (?) at the timing wheel.
Adjust with LOW tab until light goes out. (Do not have the book to verify the value).
3: Adjust the max timing advance similar, but use the HIGH tab and be carful not to disturb the LOW tab.
4: Launch the boat, start warm up the engine until quick start gets disabled.(Boat must be launched to get correct back pressure)
5: Adjust the throttle plate idle mix screws according to the book.
6: Adjust the LOW tab until desired idle rpm is obtained. Be careful that the cam does not get in contact with the carb roller!!! Keep throttle cable disconnected during this setting.

Kill switch on the control box

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