1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project

KCSeaRay

Recruit
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
2
I am currently in the process of remodeling my 1983 Sea Ray 260. It has tons of wood in the cabin and trim in the cockpit. I have decided to replace the vinyl cockpit side panels (running along port and starboard) with some high quality oak. Teak pieces this size are extremely expensive! I have sanded and stained the color I want and am ready to gloss. Can anyone recommend a good finish that won't yellow in the sun like polyurethane and can stand up to the elements? This is an area that will almost never get wet, unless I get caught in the rain! Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Re: 1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project

I really like Epiphanes Marine Varnish.
 

BWT

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
363
Re: 1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project

I agree with the use of varnish as WOG suggests, but with one twist. Past few years I've been using a combination of clear epoxy and varnish (rather than straight varnish). Couple of reasons why; to get a proper film thickness for adequate protection many coats of varnish are needed (minimum of 5 IMO; preferably closer to 8+). If a clear epoxy is used initially for the build up coats (My preference is West system epoxy and their 207 clear hardener), 2-3 coats of epoxy (this can all be applied in the same day with no sanding between coats providing it is not allowed to fully cure), allow to cure and sand smooth and apply 2 coats of a good varnish (My pref is for Pettit 2015, but Epifanes is very high quality as well) with a light sand in between and it will look like it was done by a pro :)

The epoxy allows a much thicker and faster build with less work, bonds better with the wood giving a great substrate to built from. BUT, if using this epoxy you have to use the 207 hardener otherwise it will not turn out. This is the only hardener from them that cures water clear and has UV stabilizers built in. Even though it has UV protection, top coating with a good varnish is still necessary..

If you click the link in my signature below I have 2 videos that I did specifically on this process. I Go through the whole deal start to finish. I used teak in the vids, but the process is still the same.

Hope this helps!

~BWT
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Re: 1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project

I totally 1000% concur with BWT!! I have watched his vid's and being a 40 yr woodworker, I must say he is extremely talented in his finishing techniques. Using the epoxy IS a great way to get guick build and depth in your surface. One other hint is to use a heat gun to remove air bubble in the epoxy or the varnish. CARE must be taken though. You don't want to over heat it just enough to get em out. Experiment a bit and you'll get on it.
 

KCSeaRay

Recruit
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
2
Re: 1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project

I will definitely listen to the advise. I will probably do a few test pieces to get a technique down. The last thing I want to do is strip and sand 100 pieces again because I did it wrong! Thanks for the help! I will upload some pics of the project.
 
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