Re: 1983 SeaRay 260 Express Cruiser Project
I agree with the use of varnish as WOG suggests, but with one twist. Past few years I've been using a combination of clear epoxy and varnish (rather than straight varnish). Couple of reasons why; to get a proper film thickness for adequate protection many coats of varnish are needed (minimum of 5 IMO; preferably closer to 8+). If a clear epoxy is used initially for the build up coats (My preference is West system epoxy and their 207 clear hardener), 2-3 coats of epoxy (this can all be applied in the same day with no sanding between coats providing it is not allowed to fully cure), allow to cure and sand smooth and apply 2 coats of a good varnish (My pref is for Pettit 2015, but Epifanes is very high quality as well) with a light sand in between and it will look like it was done by a pro
The epoxy allows a much thicker and faster build with less work, bonds better with the wood giving a great substrate to built from. BUT, if using this epoxy you have to use the 207 hardener otherwise it will not turn out. This is the only hardener from them that cures water clear and has UV stabilizers built in. Even though it has UV protection, top coating with a good varnish is still necessary..
If you click the link in my signature below I have 2 videos that I did specifically on this process. I Go through the whole deal start to finish. I used teak in the vids, but the process is still the same.
Hope this helps!
~BWT