Motor Removal

Volphin · Oct 21, 2011

Well, if any of you were following my older thread, it looks like my 4.3L must have a crack in it somewhere, so I'm pulling her out for a pressure test. Shouldn't be an issue, as the heads and manifolds are already off, but I've never lined up the engine/outdrive before for reinstallation. An alignment tool is mentioned in some threads. Can anyone shed some light as to how this is done and the tools required?

Also, I'm toying with removing the Y pipe altogether and going with a thru hull exhaust. How does that little gem come out? Does a blocker plate take its place?

Thanks in advance!

V

Bt Doctur · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

3 or 4 bolts and a blockoff plate installed, but you wont like the sound of a V6

r.j.dawg · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Bt Doctur said:
3 or 4 bolts and a blockoff plate installed, but you wont like the sound of a V6

+1 on the sound. Like a rice burner with glass packs.

Bondo · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

r.j.dawg said:
+1 on the sound. Like a rice burner with glass packs.

Ayuh,... I did it to mine years ago,...
It's more like a piper cub blattin', dronin' along...

No way I'd do it again, unless it's a V8...

greg82255 · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

The Y-pipe comes off with a 12-point socket, 4 bolts. I just removed mine but I don't remember the exact size. Might have been 7/16 or a half inch. Merc sells a stamped steel block off plate and several aftermarket places make a stainless steel plate. Here is an example:

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13860-cover-plate-alpha-and-bravo-applications.aspx

cr2k · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

The alignment tool is used after you put the engine back. You use it in the rear (drive off) to insure proper alignment of the drive and the coupler.
If not aligned properly you will be pulling the engine soon the replace the $300 coupler.

jimh1626 · Oct 21, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Get your tool off eBay. I got mine for $20 and $15 shipping. Probably a good idea to use it but my new engine went back in and checked ok. I didn't move the bottom mount nuts so it was aligned perfectly when it went back in. It's a good idea to check it though. You might also find someone that will rent one to you on Craigslist in your area. I would rent mine out to someone to recoup some of the cost.

Volphin · Oct 26, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Bond-o said:
Ayuh,... I did it to mine years ago,...
It's more like a piper cub blattin', dronin' along...

No way I'd do it again, unless it's a V8...

I'm not too worried about the sound... I'm trying to drop weight. How much do you suppose that Y pipe weighs?

V

Don S · Oct 26, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

It's cast aluminum with thin walls, 5 lbs maybe. Through transom exhausts are usually heavier that the Y pipe.

Bondo · Oct 26, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Don S said:
It's cast aluminum with thin walls, 5 lbs maybe. Through transom exhausts are usually heavier that the Y pipe.

Ayuh,.... Thru-hulls are usually SSteel, 'n weigh quite abit more than the cast aluminum Y-pipe...

Volphin · Oct 27, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Thanks guys, I thought it was iron.

V

greg82255 · Oct 27, 2011

Re: Motor Removal

Volphin said:
Thanks guys, I thought it was iron.

V

I thought the exact same thing until I pulled mine 2 weeks ago. I was getting ready to lift 30 or 40 lbs and it ended up weighing less than 10. You could always keep the Y-pipe and go with a set of diverters/captains call ($$$$), or "triple exhaust pipes" (cheaper) like the ones on Moore Performance:

http://www.mooreperformance.info/TripleExhaustPipes.html

But if weight is your concern, best to stick with the Y-pipe. Through hulls won't give any extra power on a V6.

Motor Removal

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