wojtek9321
Cadet
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2011
- Messages
- 7
I've been trolling these forums for a couple weeks now and first off I would like to thank everyone for their wonderful contributions. I am going to start a little project thread that people that are interested can follow.
Because of this forum I have gotten over a number of hurdles and hope my posts encourage someone else to do as I did even though it seems way too hard for them.
I'm an amateur mechanic that's comfortable doing automobile work such as minor work all the way up head gaskets and transmission swaps but have no formal training just following manuals or writeups.
Boats were like black magic to me but I wanted one.
So I purchased a 2002 Bayliner 2455. It has a 5.7L Carbed Mercruiser with a Bravo 3 drive. Sunfaded seats, dash,steering wheel but in good shape and cleaned up really well. Hull was buffed with fiberglass oxidation remover from mequiers and shines now too. It's a total transformation visually at least hehe.
The previous owner was a car dealer that purchased the boat in 2006 as a repo and it sat after he sunk it. He said he docked it on a lake and after coming back a day or whatever later the boat was sunk halfway. Turns out there accessories that were removed and the hole was never plugged into the engine bay.
So I prepared myself for a full replacement of motor and electrical issues.
After it looked clean I used a fluid extractor to pull out 2 gallons of water out of the crankcase followed by 1 gallon of oil approximately. The water was crystal clear and the oil was clean. So it was not started after sinking luckily. I then tried to fire it up with fresh oil and new spark plugs (water in there too that I blew out with compressed air).. Nothing so I changed the starter (stupid move) but a cheap start. This was before I found the forum. Still nothing. So I found the thread on this forum on troubleshooting a starter circuit and was able to jump start the starter at the igntion. It's still how I start the motor. I put 12v to the purple wires in the back fo the ignition switch and turn the key. Have to troubleshoot the circuit but have bigger things on my plate first (any easy advice hehe). After replacing the carb with a rebuilt one she started up with some starter fluid sprayed into the carb. It stays running after starting however and runs nice and clean it seems. Idle is high at 1500rpms but I don't run it more than 15 seconds at a time to check adjustments on carb.
So this is a question I have. I hook up ear muffs to the Bravo 3 drive. It doesn't appear to be circulating water anywhere. The water dripping from the drive when the engine is running is just like it is when it's off. Cool water comes out and only from the area where the muffs hook up. No where else. I saw videos online that showed drives being run on earmuffs and seemed like the water comes from a couple spots on the drive when it circulates. So my question is. Is the raw water pump not working or is there a blockage somewhere? The pump is on the left bottom section of the motor connected to the belt when looking at it. So it's part of the accessories and I saw impeller rebuild kits which I'll be ordering up.
The trim on the Bravo 3 was not working. Solenoids click but doesn't move. Disconnected the motor and jumped the blue and green cables and made sure ground black was good. (Thanks to this forum for the easy directions on checking) Nothing so will be ordering up a replacement soon. Was thinking of dishing out $400 for an OEM mercruiser rather than messing with used parts.
In the near future this is what I am going to be doing.
Done so far:
1) Electrical connections cleaned and greased to ensure proper conductivity (still mroe to go but doing as I inspect and test components)
2) Starter replaced needlessly old one worked once bench tested
3) Ignition switch replaced also worked once tested with multimeter
To be done soon:
1) Replacing tilt/trim unit pump
2) Replacing trim cylinder o-rings (for $14 a piece why not)
3) Checking compression
4) Repairing raw water pump
5) Replacing toilet it's seized and disgusting
6) Using ozone generator to disinfect the cabin area. It's a musky smell even though the whole interior was shampooed and bleached. Cushions were cleaned thoroughly too they don't smell very much. It's a slight smell now honestly but enough to bother me.
7) Test alternator voltage to see if it works
8) Figure out why trim tabs don't operate
Things I should do and will do eventually
1) Replace the lower end of the motor completely with a rebuilt unit
2) Replace seals on manifolds and risers after verifying their are free of cracks or if new engine goes in replacing all together
3) Fresh water cooling kit when engine gets replaced.
4) Bravo 3 serviced. Was going to take off the drive and do some research on how to inspect and service it myself. Currently the motor went into forward, neutral, and reverse without a problem and made no noise even at 3000-4000 RPM (however only for 15-20 seconds of run time total so that's yet to be fully tested.
I can't seem to use the steering wheel to turn the motor but the boat does have a Raymarine autopilot on it that's missing the computer portion of course. It's got the setup in the back of the motor and on the steering wheel though.
What else should would you do or recommend? I'm working on it slowly and have a big warehouse that I use for work that the boat stays in. It will probably be here for another year as I finish the project up. Eventually I would like to have her at the marina and on the ocean. However trial runs will be strictly limited to the lake until the motor is replaced or rebuilt and EVERYTHING is working as should and deemed reliable.
Thanks for having me onboard iboat forums
Because of this forum I have gotten over a number of hurdles and hope my posts encourage someone else to do as I did even though it seems way too hard for them.
I'm an amateur mechanic that's comfortable doing automobile work such as minor work all the way up head gaskets and transmission swaps but have no formal training just following manuals or writeups.
Boats were like black magic to me but I wanted one.
So I purchased a 2002 Bayliner 2455. It has a 5.7L Carbed Mercruiser with a Bravo 3 drive. Sunfaded seats, dash,steering wheel but in good shape and cleaned up really well. Hull was buffed with fiberglass oxidation remover from mequiers and shines now too. It's a total transformation visually at least hehe.
The previous owner was a car dealer that purchased the boat in 2006 as a repo and it sat after he sunk it. He said he docked it on a lake and after coming back a day or whatever later the boat was sunk halfway. Turns out there accessories that were removed and the hole was never plugged into the engine bay.
So I prepared myself for a full replacement of motor and electrical issues.
After it looked clean I used a fluid extractor to pull out 2 gallons of water out of the crankcase followed by 1 gallon of oil approximately. The water was crystal clear and the oil was clean. So it was not started after sinking luckily. I then tried to fire it up with fresh oil and new spark plugs (water in there too that I blew out with compressed air).. Nothing so I changed the starter (stupid move) but a cheap start. This was before I found the forum. Still nothing. So I found the thread on this forum on troubleshooting a starter circuit and was able to jump start the starter at the igntion. It's still how I start the motor. I put 12v to the purple wires in the back fo the ignition switch and turn the key. Have to troubleshoot the circuit but have bigger things on my plate first (any easy advice hehe). After replacing the carb with a rebuilt one she started up with some starter fluid sprayed into the carb. It stays running after starting however and runs nice and clean it seems. Idle is high at 1500rpms but I don't run it more than 15 seconds at a time to check adjustments on carb.
So this is a question I have. I hook up ear muffs to the Bravo 3 drive. It doesn't appear to be circulating water anywhere. The water dripping from the drive when the engine is running is just like it is when it's off. Cool water comes out and only from the area where the muffs hook up. No where else. I saw videos online that showed drives being run on earmuffs and seemed like the water comes from a couple spots on the drive when it circulates. So my question is. Is the raw water pump not working or is there a blockage somewhere? The pump is on the left bottom section of the motor connected to the belt when looking at it. So it's part of the accessories and I saw impeller rebuild kits which I'll be ordering up.
The trim on the Bravo 3 was not working. Solenoids click but doesn't move. Disconnected the motor and jumped the blue and green cables and made sure ground black was good. (Thanks to this forum for the easy directions on checking) Nothing so will be ordering up a replacement soon. Was thinking of dishing out $400 for an OEM mercruiser rather than messing with used parts.
In the near future this is what I am going to be doing.
Done so far:
1) Electrical connections cleaned and greased to ensure proper conductivity (still mroe to go but doing as I inspect and test components)
2) Starter replaced needlessly old one worked once bench tested
3) Ignition switch replaced also worked once tested with multimeter
To be done soon:
1) Replacing tilt/trim unit pump
2) Replacing trim cylinder o-rings (for $14 a piece why not)
3) Checking compression
4) Repairing raw water pump
5) Replacing toilet it's seized and disgusting
6) Using ozone generator to disinfect the cabin area. It's a musky smell even though the whole interior was shampooed and bleached. Cushions were cleaned thoroughly too they don't smell very much. It's a slight smell now honestly but enough to bother me.
7) Test alternator voltage to see if it works
8) Figure out why trim tabs don't operate
Things I should do and will do eventually
1) Replace the lower end of the motor completely with a rebuilt unit
2) Replace seals on manifolds and risers after verifying their are free of cracks or if new engine goes in replacing all together
3) Fresh water cooling kit when engine gets replaced.
4) Bravo 3 serviced. Was going to take off the drive and do some research on how to inspect and service it myself. Currently the motor went into forward, neutral, and reverse without a problem and made no noise even at 3000-4000 RPM (however only for 15-20 seconds of run time total so that's yet to be fully tested.
I can't seem to use the steering wheel to turn the motor but the boat does have a Raymarine autopilot on it that's missing the computer portion of course. It's got the setup in the back of the motor and on the steering wheel though.
What else should would you do or recommend? I'm working on it slowly and have a big warehouse that I use for work that the boat stays in. It will probably be here for another year as I finish the project up. Eventually I would like to have her at the marina and on the ocean. However trial runs will be strictly limited to the lake until the motor is replaced or rebuilt and EVERYTHING is working as should and deemed reliable.
Thanks for having me onboard iboat forums
