96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

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N2Boating

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Hi all,

I just want to say that it's really nice to have a place like this to come to share questions and answers w/others who have had similar poroblems like the ones I have been having.

So far as I understand it, I've come to believe I have a '96 DT 150 BASS engine on my Bass Boat :) and like many others here I have very similar problems w/a continuing Gremlin that throw me random over heat issue alarms w/the Temp sensor and Rev Limit lit up w/the buzzer Tones.

So far I have done as several here have suggested in other threads and my problem seems to be one of those that will require a little more digging on my part and hopefully a little help from all you great people here.

The following is a list of all the things I have tried todate.

1) New Water Pump.
2) Cleaned and checked T-Stats
3) Trimmed the Starbrt side of my intake just above the Temp Sensor on that side of the motor to prevent it from pushing on the wires to that sensor.
4) Just recently adjusted the Idle so that it idles at about 800+/-50. This was done after the water pump install and fabrication to the inner side of the intake channel under the Cowling.
5) Purchased a 15 PSI Suzi Meter to install when I get more time to get back to completing the planned upgrades.

Things I think I should look into would be as follows.

1) Check the Oil flow and make sure the filter is clean and the oil out put is in speck.
2) Make sure the TP Sensor is good and working w/in speck.
3) Check that all my linkage rods are of propler length
4) Ensure the Timing and Idle is w/in speck relating to each other.
5) Check the Low and High PSI Fuel filters are clean and free from any moisture or sediments.
6) Replace both T-Stats just to be safe even though the BASS T-Stats are kind of pricey.
7) Attempt to find a cheap fiber optic scope to prode into the water jacket channels to see if any blockages exist.

Things I have not been able to figure out.

1) Does my engine have a water PSI relieve Valve.
2) Does it have Water Flow Sensors on the middle Cylinders # 2 & 3 in addition to the Temp Sensors on the top two Cylinders.

I purchased the Service Manual from Browns Point item number 99500-87D08-01E and so far I can not seem to find any specific details about the '96 DT 150S BASS.

I am by no means rich otherwise I would take it to a shop. However I am prety good w/my hands W/I have to be and am quite capable of learing things while doing my own repairs providing I take my time and don't have any one misplacing any of my parts for me when I'm not around :/

I have so many questions and don't know where to start asking because I really would like to know what would be the best plan of attatck to try to resolve this Pesky Temp Alarm issue when considering all I have done so far and what I'm thinking of doing?

See you on the water,

Tony

Oh yeah just incase any one would like to see her, I'll include an image of my pride and joy on the water w/a friend over this summer :)

Friend on the boat.jpg
 

James R

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

It could be something as simple as a temp sensor. Does the motor actually overheat? If not try disconnecting the sensors and see if the alarm goes away. If it does then it could be a sensor.
 

N2Boating

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

Hi James,

I Don't think it's overheating but I have not been able to determine this with 100% certainty. I do have a lazer temp gun but a real cheap one at that and I'm not sure of it's acuracy.

When checking it with the dog ears I can hold my hand on the cylinders for a while but it does get to the point where I don't want to keep my hand on the cylinders for to long.

I pulled and cleaned the T-stats and checked them on the stove in a pot of water by using the hang them from a string trick and they seemed to be working as they dropped away from the string to the bottom of the pot. I'm just not completely sure of the temp at which they did that.

I wish I was able to look up the specks for the T-stats in the Service manual I mentioned in the 1st post. Unless I'm wrong I don't think it has specific details about my year and model. The engine is the one with the 2 spark plugs per cylinder if that helps.

I am under the impresion it's either an Oil & or lubrication or a fault in the Temp Sensor issue just not sure the best sequence of steps I should take to narrow it down.
 

James R

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

What kind of water flow are you getting from the telltale. Suzuki's have a very strong flow even at idle. If it is week then you have a water problem. Is the water pump housing scored. Is the impeller correctly fitted.
 

N2Boating

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

I just did the pump back in May or June and the housing looked fine IMO. I replaced the impeller w/the newer 6 bladed impeller prop and the stream pretty much looks like it's peeing all the time and the water in the stream does get warm when I hold my hand in direct contact w/it. Still have not had time to get under the hood on this thing yet because I'm still trying to get my man cave / Garage squared away so that I'll have the room to work.

Thanks for the tip on the tale tale stream PSI at idle.
 

James R

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

The strength of the tell tale is a very good indicator. That stream should be strong enough to bounce off the concrete even at idle. If it is not strong then you may have one or more impeller blades facing the wrong way.
 

N2Boating

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Re: 96 DT 150 Bass w/infamouse Overheat Alarm issue

Oh no I'm almost 100% sure the impeller was installed correctly. I rotated the impeller in the direction of in use rotation before putting the housing on the lower unit.

However this is still a good thing for me to check on next time I pull the boat out and hook it up to the dog ears. I need to actually get some rectangle dog ears as IMO they would supply better water flow than the round ones I presently have.

In all honesty I appreciate all your help and advice "please keep it coming thnx" and this alarm issue has been happening almost since I got the boat back in '06. The shop I bought the boat from made sure he installed a new impeller prior to letting me take it out on all day trips ;) and he gave me the impeller that was in it before he replaced it.

So now I have two used water pump impellers for this engine that both look flawless ;)

I did have an issue w/water in the fuel that I did not want to get into because I don't want every one to know what kind of bone head move I pulled off. Oh well I guess the cat's out of the bag now and it could only help you all help me since you will know more of this engines history :(

The first trip out after I bought it I wanted to float in the Port of Stockton, CA to watch the 4th of July fireworks Display from the Ballpark overlooking the Port of Stockton ;)

Well being a newb and first time boat owner I made the miserable mistake of forgetting to put the Drain Plug in the Transom. So to make matters worse it was a busy day at the launch as you all most likely can assume from the Date of launch and the No Wake Zone was particularly longer than What I prefer after Launching my boat.

In any case, here I am putting along in the no wake zone getting all excited because I was about 100 ft from the Blast off zone of no speed limit driving and My engine Cuts out. I get it started back up and it's sputtering and not wanting to idle as it should. I remember thinking to myself WTH I just bought this thing what now right? The next thing that happens won't come as a shocker to any one reading this but never the less I saw water on the floorboard of the Bass Boat and I was thinking to my self where is all this water coming from.

Now it only took me about 1/2 a second after splashing my feet around in the water to realize what was going on. My eyes opened up very wide and I tried several times to keep the motor running so that I could get back to the Ramp and save my boat from sinking :/ so after about 10 seconds of not having any luck keeping her running while in gear I made the next best decision of the day.

With the bilge pump on I deployed the 73lb Motor guide trolling motor and booked it back to the Ramp. Lucky me I did not have to wait long for a clear spot to pull up and trim the motor down to the ramp to prevent it from sinking any further at the ramp and I jumped in taking the plunge w/my shoes on and wallet and cell phone in my pockets. In case you are wondering the wallet dried out and the Cell phone dried eventually and was replaced under warranty " Lucky Me again although some of my pals would say if it was not for bad luck, I'd have not luck at all. There is a select few of my buds in my group of boaters call that have since gave me yet another nick name of Dark Cloud LOL". Nick names I have quite a few that I probably should not share atm.

Just to cut to the chase I saved the boat from sinking, took it home and drained the gas tank into smaller 5 gallon tanks so that I could skim the gas out of the water. I also cleaned out the gas and oil lines not knowing what I do now about priming the oil lines. I had an idea but I asked the mechanic about it that I bought it from and he said it'd be fine as long as I notice the oil level dropping on the tank. After that day is when I started noticing the alarm at under load idles and slower than on plane speeds. So this is why I have always wanted to get very aquatinted w/every component in the fuel/oil delivery system from the tanks to the cylinders :)) so I picked up a Seloc book for the 2 stroke DT engines. It gave me some indication of what was going on but not enough to teach me what I was doing wrong and what I needed to be doing in order to do it right ;) and it was then that I realized how little I knew about the motor. It was also at that point how much I grew to appreciate just how well the engine was designed.

I eventually got the OEM Service Manual that I have now but it don't have the BASS motor details that I need like what my Max WOT should be, What the timing should be set to w/the engine speed and so on. I'd like to be able to test all the Sensors w/DMM's to determine if they either are defective or have shorts in them and if I learn how to do that as a shade tree mechanic. If and when I get the required skills I will like to educate other shade tree mechanics w/these motors via video tutorials on youtube. I'd like to be able to explain in great detail how each system works, what kind of signs to look for and how to test each of the main important systems tied to the alarm system. So I need to brush up and implant the education required to properly test all of the following: Alarm, Fuel, Oil, Cable Linkages to Throttle Body & Oil Pump Positions, Sensors and basic mechanical Test's & Preventive Maintenance.

Sorry if this bothers any one but I always seem to have to write a short story / small book every time I post. I guess that's just how I roll. I guess I ramble on about me because I'm bored and do it If for none other than to be friendly and get better acquainted with all you fellow boaters.


I like to learn as much as possible in the shortest amount of time and by no means am I exempt from learning the hard way. Yet I do know that some mistakes can not be undone. Especially if they are ones that cost me a boat motor or parts on it that are in limited supply or no longer available. :O This is the one thing that ticks me off about Suzuki though. The lack of support and failure to keep a available supply of very important parts like Cylinder Heads, Gauges or other importantly crucial parts needed for Engine Repairs. I guess there might be good enough welding and machine shops around to repair what cost to much to buy new any way but I'm not sure how good a patchemup Cylinder head would perform or last If one was cracked and needed to be repaired.

Wow I really need to get off this PC and I'd be willing to bet most of you that made it this far in to this post are starting to wonder if I'll ever stop rambling about off topic things and stick to posting questions and answers about my boat which is the real reason I'm here at this Forum in the first place. So I promise from now on after this post I'll try not to post so much off topic-ness, that is unless I am asked about something in particular. Ok so now I'm off to get other stuff done around here that requires my attention.

Thank you again every one for your friendly insight and willingness to share it with me, I shall put back as much if not more help here as possible once I know what I'm doing .

Cheers,

N2Boating
 

GA_Boater

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After close to 8 years you still have this problem, whatever your encyclopedia says it is.
 

N2Boating

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Yes I have used the boat maybe 10 times since I originally posted this. No I have not found out what the cause it yet or how to test sensors etc etc. I have read there is a diode between the alarm gauge and the sensor that goes bad and that there should be a poppet valve but I have not been able to locate a poppet valve any where on the engine. I know some one has to know what's going on here.
 

GA_Boater

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Keep it simple - What is going on?

Are you saying it'a a false alarm or not sure?
 

N2Boating

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I honestly don't know if it is a false overheat or not. What I do know is that every time I get the alarm usually Idle in gear or lower RPM range 2500 or less I turn it off to reset the alarm and turn it right back on and problem is gone so I'm assuming it's a false alarm. However I am not an expert here and trying to get to the bottom of it just in case it is needing some attention somewhere before severe damage is done.

I'll have to put some batteries in the laser temp gun and take it out on the water with no cowling so I can point it at the top of the heads/cylinder jugs right when it goes off. That will tell me for sure. It never alarms like this when sitting in a bucket of water or with the water dogs/ears on "what ever they are called" on it. It don't get much of a load put on it with a bucket or the water things on it either so kind of hard to diagnose it with out running it out on the water. I am waiting for the Seastar Pro steering kit to get here which should make it much easier to drive and see where the the water line is on the lower unit while on plane WOT trimmed up at the fastest speed. It does roughly 55 mph. I have had it up to about 62mpr with the wind at my back one time. For the most part I get 55 mph max speed. So I need to make sure the boat is set up properly "pun intende" as I have read that this engine should be capable of mid 60's to low 70's mph on smaller boats like mine.
 
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N2Boating

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I just purchased a '94 DT150S supplimental Service manual on ebay. I'm hoping it will have something in it.
 

N2Boating

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I have been brain storming for the last week trying to learn as much as possible about my specific '96 engine. DT150S is what in on the engine better known as DT 150 BASS. Also referred to in the service manual as DT150STC. Then a third reference lists it as DT150STCLT for the Suzuki Parts Look up. So with 3 different naming schemes for the same exact year/model you can see how I was confused when it came to finding information pertaining to my specific engine. I did not think my Service manual covered my engine but once I put all the different pieces of the puzzle together and figured out all the different engine designations were all for my engine I realized the last section in my Service manual with the "W" ('98) has all the test procedures for my engine even though my specific BASS engine was only made from 93-97 as far as I know. Oh and I found out another interesting fact. It Looks like my engine is suppose to rev up all the way until 6500 RPM as that is when it should throw a REV LIMIT code.

Now armed with the correct info I got my lazer pointed hand held gun style infrared thermometer out and put a new 9 volt in it for testing purposes. It also has a spot for a K style Thermal Couple that I will use in the water for testing temps as well as taping to the block for testing cylinder temps. I'm going to get all technical and try to follow a game plan here.

#1 pull T stats and use the suspended in pot of water and measure the water temperature to see at what temperature they start to open and what temperature they are fully open.

#2 Do the same as #1 for both Cylinder temp sensors while measuring the Ohms at specified temperature ranges.
The resistance check for the cylinder temp sensors is as follows.
Water Temp F 32 / 77 / 122 / 135
Resistance 5.3-6.6 / 1.8-2.3 / 0.73-0.96 / 0.33-0.45

#3 Replace Water Pump and inspect for worn water supply bushings etc.

#4 Check Cylinder temperatures with Thermal Couple while engine is running.

I just purchased on ebay what I'm hoping is new and not a defective Monitor Gauge. Suzuki no longer sells these So at $59.00 I am a bit skeptical but the seller offers a 1 year warranty for this Monitor Gauge. Worse case scenario I return it if it's defective and look for another one until I find a good one. I left my boat outside in the weather for the last 2 years and now the Rev Limit light is not working so I don't know what exact code I am getting. The only thing that happens now is the Temp Light stays on when the Buzzer sounds. The Rev Limit light use to work before I left it parked outside. Heck now the trim gauge don't even work. The RPM gauge was not working at first until I revved the engine in the higher RPM range.

I'm getting closer to getting to the bottom of this.
smile.gif


Edit: It looks like the Monitor will throw a temp alarm if up to 7 minutes after starting the Starboard side reaches 100C and Port side Reaches 120C. Then 7 minutes after starting it will throw a code at 83C Starboard side and 120C Port side. This comes right out of the manual. It don't sound right but it's in the manual so I'm thinking this may be why it does not sound the alarm right away after shutting it off and starting it back up right away. After restarting the engine the Starboard side has a higher range before it sets the alarm off for the first 7 minutes.
 
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N2Boating

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Man hard bunch on this forum.

Thank you booster, I think I’ll just go with factory parts since I am chasing an overheat alarm. I pulled the T-stats and suspended them in a pot of water and discovered that they start opening at about 132F and are completely open by 136F. So I don’t know if that means I should change them or not. They are suppose to start opening between 118-126F so about 6F off. I used both a digital gun with the Thermal couple and candy thermometer simultaneously and there was only about a 1-2F variance between the two. I also pulled both heat sensors. The starboard side philips screw was being very stubborn so I cutout two flats using a dremel so I could get a good grip on that screw with some vise grips. After I got a good grip with the vice grips it came right out pretty easy.

Two of the T-stat bolts were stubborn as well. One more so than the other. I had to work it back and forth about 1/8” -3/16” of a turn back and forth practically the whole way out. The bolt does have some corrosion on it too. Any suggestions on the best way to clean the threads in the head before I put the T-stats back in?

Oh yeah I almost forgot, both sensors have some kind of stuff on them. The service manual states not to use any oil on the sensor or down in the hole the sensors are housed in. The port side sensor has some kind of runny looking oil while the Starboard side has some white goop. I’m not sure what it is, could be white lithium or some kind of thermal compound IDK.

I took pictures but they are on my phone and I’m in bed already on the iPad making my rounds before I crash for the night.
 

N2Boating

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From start up to the first 7 minutes of warm up the Starboard side will set an alarm at 212F. After 7 minutes from starting at 183F Starboard side will set off the alarm and on the port side 248F will set off am alarm at any time during operation. So at least now I know the T-stats should not be the cause of the alarm.
 

N2Boating

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Ok I have a little problem now. One sensor has 3 wires The $50.00 sensor and the $70 sensor has two wires. When I test the sensor with three wires at 71F between one set of the three wires I get a reading of 2.22 kΩ which looks normal and when I test another set of wires I get a reading of 79.6 kΩ. last when I test the third option between wires I get OL.

Now on the other sensor I get no reading at all. Additionally when I set my meter for continuity with a beep I get no continuity and no beep. I'm not sure if that means the sensor is dead or what. I have to dig into the manual again to see if it specifies what wires I should be testing on what sensor. and also find out what it says about each sensor. From what I recall it does not specify any differences between the two sensors. So this leads to more confusion on my part.

When I pull the lower unit "soon" I will plug a hose into the line coming form the pump housing up into the block with the T-stats out and turn the water on from my garden hose and see what kind of flow I get at each T-stat exit port.
 

N2Boating

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Ok no major discoveries as of yet. A guy at browns point informed me that I can unplug the green wires of each sensor one at a time to see if the alarm stops. The port side has a purple wire that needs to stay connected along with the black wire. I told him I was trying to get a Ohms reading of the sensors while out of the boat and he informed me that the heat sensors only make continuity when they have reached the over heat set temperature. Does any one know about this ?

I got some garden hoses hooked up the the T-stat housings so the water exiting the top of the engine will flow outside the engine which will make it easy to see how much flow I am getting per cylinder bank. I am thinking I should get two five gallon buckets and see if both buckets fill up evenly or if one side is so restricted that it does not fill evenly with the other side.

I ran a new plastic water pressure line from the engine to the helm and installed the pressure gauge on the dash. I also installed a different monitor gauge from ebay. It was suppose to be new but I can tell it’s not even close to new. I still have yet to test it. I’ll probably give it a try some time tomorrow.

I also pulled the manual steering crap out of the boat and fed the new Seastar Pro hydro lines from the helm to the engine. I still need to order the water pump but I am waiting to see if I will be needing any other parts for the cooling system before Implace am order. Tomorrow I think I will pull the lower unit off and hook up a garden hose to the water feeder tube that runs from the pump to the bottom of the engine block and see what kind of flow I get with just garden hose water pressure. If everything looks good there then I will put the T-stats back in and reinstall the lower unit and start it up to see what kind op psi I get at the gauge. I got the meter that goes up to 35 psi.
 
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