tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

mooseskin

Cadet
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
12
i have a 1981 evinrude E115TLCIM on a 17' checkmate also 81'. i got this boat 15 years ago and have done all the work on it myself including pulling the powerhead and complete disassemble and rebuild. Now i have to rebuild/replace the tilt cylinder because its leaking at the top around the shaft. If i'm lucky a o-ring kit might do the trick.Either way the tilt/trim has to come off and thats were my problem lies. According to my factory shop manual(the one for this year and model,the real deal), with the engine all the way down you are supposed to manually lift the engine up and put the support prop bar out. Let me tell you, i tried even with a huge pry bar to move this manually. It's not happening. I used the power tilt to put it up and set it down on the prop bar and release a little pressure off the cylinder, removed the clips on the top pin of the cylinder mount and tried to drive the pin out. NOT HAPPENING. Soaked with pb blaster and still no go. I've used heat from a torch in the past too many times to count but this dosen't look like a place i want to do it at. Any secrets, tips or suggestions are welcome. I ain't whipped yet. I will get it, i always do. But i'd rather take a bit of advice from someone who's been there, it saves time and frustration.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

Heat is unfortunately the only solution. That bolt does not come out by itself!! You may have to heat to the extend that the bushings melts in order to get it out.
Next problem you will face might be to unscrew the sealing cover on top of the tilt cylinder. Be sure you have a proper tool ready and some more heat.
 

the machinist

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 7, 2002
Messages
711
Re: tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

Maybe I'm missing something here , but it seems to me that the motor has to be all the way UP for the power tilt unit to come off. With it down, unless you loosen the bleed off screw, you will be trying to push against the hydraulic oil in the unit.

But if your unit is still operating (only leaking), you should be able to raise it by the power tilt.
 

mooseskin

Cadet
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
12
Re: tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

Heat is unfortunately the only solution. That bolt does not come out by itself!! You may have to heat to the extend that the bushings melts in order to get it out.
Next problem you will face might be to unscrew the sealing cover on top of the tilt cylinder. Be sure you have a proper tool ready and some more heat.

Yeah,thats probably the way its gonna be unfortunately. Hopefully i can replace that top bushing if it gets roasted(they usually do from my experience). I'm ordering the spanner wrench(326485) for the top cap to make the removal easier.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

Maybe I'm missing something here , but it seems to me that the motor has to be all the way UP for the power tilt unit to come off. With it down, unless you loosen the bleed off screw, you will be trying to push against the hydraulic oil in the unit.

But if your unit is still operating (only leaking), you should be able to raise it by the power tilt.

No need to remove the complete unit for this job. Get the tilt cyl bolt outand unscrew the top cap. However the 'RELEASE' screw must be open 1-2 turn to release the pressure and the engine 'locked' in raised position.
 

mooseskin

Cadet
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
12
Re: tilt cylinder repair on 115 hp

No need to remove the complete unit for this job. Get the tilt cyl bolt outand unscrew the top cap. However the 'RELEASE' screw must be open 1-2 turn to release the pressure and the engine 'locked' in raised position.

I was kinda thinking a the same thing about not having to remove the whole unit. Thanks for pointing out the manual release screw, if i would have looked at the very begining section of the power tilt and trim(pg. 9-1)of the factory manual i would have seen that. Now i realize what to do when they say manually lift the engine. I hope by releasing the pressure i can drive the rod out,really don't want to break out the torch to heat it up. Thats a lot of time and corrosion(cheasapeake bay) from the water. By the way i understand why everybody praises the factory omc manuals,they really do cover a lot. I just recently got both the shop service manual and parts catalog off e-bay in nice shape and a decent price. Wish i would have had these 15 years ago. Thanks for the info.
 
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