'97 Mercruiser 3.0LX - stalls on idle, not developing power at WOT, runs at mid throt

phataskala

Recruit
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
1
I'm hoping to get some opinions on a course of action for my 18' 1997 Starcraft open bow with a Mercruiser 3.0LX engine. It won't run at idle (stalls out) and is not developing the proper power at high throttle settings, but runs OK at mid throttle settings. I haven't taken any diagnostic steps but plan to start from the fuel tank and work my way to the carb.

I bought the boat about 6 weeks ago and have had it out a handful of times. It has been running fairly well, but was having a hard time starting. Finally it wouldn't turn over at all and I had the starter replaced and now it starts well when warm, though now it won't run at idle at all (before was rough) and still takes a half dozen tries to start when not warm. Was out last weekend and it wasn't developing power at higher throttle settings. We did some tubing with the kids at med/low speed and after a while its power generation continued to degrade. On the way back to the dock it began knocking. Oh, and the tachometer and water temp gauge have been acting wierd (intermittent, sometimes seeming accurate, mostly not sensical at all) since I bought it and so i'm not sure what to believe for tach and temp (oil temp seems to be working ok - it has not showed hot as far as I can tell). I was thinking a fuel issue would cause it to run lean and hot and was causing the knocking. I've heard that fuel pumps give out gradually if the diaphragm ruptures, which would explain why it doesn't run at idle (starved at low rpm), and not well at high rpm (not enough supply), but ok at mid range throttle (pump can keep up with limited demand). Is that the case (gradual failure), or does a fuel give out all at once and leave you dead in the water?

I plan on starting on the fuel system - checking the tank for water, changing fuel filter, then checking to see if the pump is pulling the right pressure. I talked with a mechanic about the symptoms and his first thought was the carb needs to be rebuilt. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Thanks.
 

kd7isf

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 20, 2004
Messages
162
Re: '97 Mercruiser 3.0LX - stalls on idle, not developing power at WOT, runs at mid t

Hi,

Well, there could be several causes.......
Please describe the "knocking" sound a little better -- if it sounded like it was coming from the back, you may have had your drive trimmed up too high.......

If this boat has been sitting for a while, then yes, a carb clean+rebuild is in order...
Check your firing order -- some of those engines had the wrong info printed on the flame arrestor (air cleaner like thing) -- the correct order is 1-3-4-2

If your fuel pump was "going out" there would be gas in the the "extra" hose going from the pump to the carb.
This is the little small one, usually clear or yellowish. Any gas in there = bad fuel pump.

There should not be an inline filter -- remove it if there is -- the only type of inline fuel filter you should have is a fuel / water separator -- kinda looks like an oil filter...
There is a filter in the pump and a strainer in the inlet to the carb...

You could try running from an external tank to make sure you don't have a bunch of water in your tank...
Fuel / water separators are great for helping with this problem....

If none of the above work, then you need to dig deeper.
Do a compression test -- compression testers can be rented/borrowed from your local auto parts store tool rental program...
A leak down test would be even better, but the tool for that is not always as easy to find -- or pay for :)

Hope this helps.....
 

fat fanny

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
1,935
Re: '97 Mercruiser 3.0LX - stalls on idle, not developing power at WOT, runs at mid t

From what your describing leads me to believe there is aproblem with the fuel circuit from the tank to the carb ( tank vent plugged,dirty filters, low fuel pressure and or carb re-build) I would startthe trouble shootng with the least exspensive items first the onto a compression test (harbor frieght gauge 15.00) then a re- build on carb around 50.00 if you do it yourself then onto checking the timming to make sure it's advancing correctly if it's EST you will know when proceedure is complete if the module is bad causing no advance this requires a special proceedure outlined in the service manual which by the way is a must for proper trouble shooting also look @ the top of this forum in the 1st post @ the adults only stickie for some great trouble shooting tips. Good luck!!
 
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