Preventing stringer and transom rot

Hi everyone! My first post!

I've been gleaning a lot of information from this site over the last few months and decided it was time to register!

I'm from Minnesota, but live in Hudson WI. I fish Lake of the Woods mostly on the Minnesota/Canadian border. We just purchased a place up there, so we will be up there permanently (in the summer anyway). SO, I am selling my new Ranger fish and ski (too small for that lake) since I just purchased an 89 Sport Craft 210 Fisherman from Florida (fresh water only) with a 4.3 Merc. The boat is in mint condition and I did have it checked by a marine mechanic. The boat has been stored inside 95% of it's life and it shows. I do know about Sport Craft boats penchant for wood rot, but on this boat the stringers and transom are all good and solid.

My question is, besides maintenance and keeping the boat dry as possible, IE tilting the bow up when on trailer and keeping it covered etc. How else can I keep my stringers and transom in tip top condition? I thought of adding extra fiberglass to the stringers. Not sure if this is possible or not. I understand the risks of buying an older boat, BUT i want it to last another 30 years as I'm VERY fanatical about keeping my boats looking and running like new. Any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

See you on the lake


Joe

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

Welcome to iboats.

Dry is the key........ most of the time the stringer's rot due to water sitting in the flotation foam....... the transom rots due to water infiltration too....... as I said dry is the key.

Adding fiberglass might help seal things but is not needed. Checking your flotation and inspecting for dampness would be a higher priority. Water is going to get inside (it's a boat)but the key is to get it out and keep it dry.

Good luck with it.

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

one of the simplest things you can do to a boat to keep it dry besides keeping it covered. (or indoor storage) is to keep an electrical fan in the boat after it has come out of the water. theow the fan in the ski locker (not the bilge) keep the bow up, the ski locker open and cover the boat.....the fan will dry the carpet and wood underneath it in no time.

in fact....it will dry any exposed wood areas....this is a simple step that costs little and works miracles.

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

If you do manage to get some water in the transom or stringer inject the area with automotive antifreeze - - yep that is the stuff. Water causes fungus which causes rot. Anti freeze kills fungus - simple!

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

Interesting stuff in this thread.

Wanted to say HI to the OP! I live in Amery and work in Hudson! Favorite spot for me is the St. Croix river, but I'm still relatively new to the area. There are lots of newer boats that don't use wood as a structural component. One of the primary reason I bought my Larson is the fact that there is no wood in the boat...composite transom and stringers, fiberglass everything else! Something to look for...

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

I ahd never heard about so much rot until I started using this site, although I have been around boats, lots of boats, all my life. Wooden boats excluded, of course. But all of my boating has been in salt water. So I wonder, is the fiberglass boat rot problem unique to, or more prevalent in, fresh water boating?

I know from wooden boat experience that "sweet water" is the big enemy--you never let rain water sit in the boat.
Anyone know?

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

Home Cookin' said:

I ahd never heard about so much rot until I started using this site, although I have been around boats, lots of boats, all my life. Wooden boats excluded, of course. But all of my boating has been in salt water. So I wonder, is the fiberglass boat rot problem unique to, or more prevalent in, fresh water boating?

I know from wooden boat experience that "sweet water" is the big enemy--you never let rain water sit in the boat.
Anyone know?

Click to expand...

nope....salt or fresh....doesnt matter....it is just how you take care of the boat....

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

Thanks for the answers guys!! I really appreciate the feedback. I just found out last night the last owner has always put "Damp rid" on the boat. two of them in the engine compartment, two in the cuddy, and two in the bay where the gas tank is. I forgot all about that product. Another one that might work would be silica gel now that I think about it. Thank you again for the comments, I sincerely appreciate it!

See you on the lake

Joe

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

Home Cookin' said:

I ahd never heard about so much rot until I started using this site, although I have been around boats, lots of boats, all my life. Wooden boats excluded, of course. But all of my boating has been in salt water. So I wonder, is the fiberglass boat rot problem unique to, or more prevalent in, fresh water boating?

I know from wooden boat experience that "sweet water" is the big enemy--you never let rain water sit in the boat.
Anyone know?

Click to expand...

Saltwater tends to pickle wood. Sweet water promotes rot
Saltwater boats tend to be a lot better constructed. Fully encapsulated stringers,transoms and decks verse plywood and carpet

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

The operative phrase is "Garage Kept". Of course that means dry too....LOL.

I have a 27 year old fiberglass boat and a 59 year old wood boat and both look like the day they were born.

My buddy lives in the same area and has kept his 18 year old boat outside all its life. Yes, it had a cover and a tarp, but naturally there is seepage and moisture in the bilge. He just spent more than the boat was worth to have the innards gutted out.

Re: Preventing stringer and transom rot

dingbat said:

Saltwater tends to pickle wood. Sweet water promotes rot
Saltwater boats tend to be a lot better constructed. Fully encapsulated stringers,transoms and decks verse plywood and carpet

Click to expand...

that's what I figured--not that you don't want to keep them as dry as is practical, but it just doesn't seem to be an issue around here.