problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

This process seamed so simple. I have a 1987 evinrude 88spl. From what I can tell it does NOT have the quick start feature. Maybe I am wrong, but can anyone tell me if this motor has quick start?

I removed and grounded all the plug keads, but plug 1. Plug lead one was hooked to a spark checker with a 7/16 gap. Hooked up a timing light and cranked the engine over. My timing marks were about a 1/4 of a rotation on the fly wheel off! I don't really know what to think about this one. I had the induction lead hooked up the the top starboard side plug wire (#1 from what is marked on the head). In the process of trying this I fried a power pack so now I'm $140 in the hole from trying to set my own timing.

I am thinking about leaving the boat strapped to the trailer and running it up to 5000 rpm in the water. Hitting the flywheel with the light and checking it that way. I can't seem to get the joe reeves method down. Is there anyone in the Wichita Falls, TX area who could help? I don't like the marine shop here so I am trying to avoid them. The only other one is 2 hours away.

The motor will start and run. BUt it will only run on two cylinders now since I dumped a power pack. Before it would run, bu ran rough. I'm lost.

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

Man, I was hoping for a little more input. Maybe you guys are busy solving the really big issues? HAHAHAHA! Well, I'm off to the marine store in the morning to buy a new power pack. Then I'm going to a secluded ramp to do a WOT run with the boat attached to the trailer. I think I will just time it that way instead of the Joe Reeves method. I am sure the Joe Reeves method works great when you know more about what you are doing. I'm just going to go with the factory service manual and a little modification.

Anyone see any reason to not do a WOT run with the boat attached to the trailer at the ramp? Other than the obvious washout happening under the water? I have an old prop that if I kick up a couple rocks or sticks I don't care.

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

Hi, my first thought is that since you say the timing marks are !/4 turn out, the pick up lead from the strobe must be on the wrong cylinder plug lead,,no way it can be so far out if lead is on correct cylinder,, how many cylinders on this motor ?? from what you say I am guessing its 4 ??,, if so, just try the pickup lead on all the other plug leads one at a time and I am sure one will show the timing marks in the correct place,, dont forget to deduct the 4 degrees from the book setting.
I have no idea how you managed to fry the power pack,, are you sure all the other plugs were grounded,,, I always advocate having the plugs connected to the leads and the plug body grounded securely ( usually wrap wire round the body and attach to ground,, .
With regard to doing the WOT run in the dock,, , Be aware that OMC recommend using a test wheel for this,, not a prop,, though not sure why this is,, good luck

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

you dont have quick start it came out in 1989 if i remember if you do run your prop cut half the ears off

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

I ran the prop today with full ears and in reverse (less thrust). I was able to run the engine up to 5000 rpm and it was loaded up pretty goo doing it. I put a new power pack on first and double checked all the leads and such. I hit 5000 rpm and checked it with the light and was getting 27*. The book says 28* +- 1* so by the OMC manual it is good to go. What an adventure this has been. Next time I do a test and tune on the ramp I will cut half the ears off the prop and do it in forward instead of reverse. I don't think I should have to do it again for a long time. The way the timing is mainly adjusted is by a rod that fits into a series of holes in a block. Each hole is 4* of timing. It is impossible for the rod to move once in place. The only other adjustment is a "fine" adjustment by using the cam in the throttle arm. It can only move the timing +- 2*. So if it ever starts running a little rough and the normal plug, carb, fuel fixes don't clear it then I know I can only be a degree or two off time.

thanks for the replies everyone. Happy boating! I know I will enjoy dragging the wife around on the tube this weekend!

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

If you look around youtube you can find tons of people launching their boats through through their rear glass or into their truck beds. I guess your chain might save you if you have one and it's hooked up?

Is it possible that your WOT stop screw is preventing the timer base from fully advancing? The method recommends wiring the advance forward if you aren't sure if it's staying fully forward. Maybe that's the problem.

If you're going to do it on the water it would probably actually be safest to go to a quiet place or wait for a quiet day with someone competent to run the boat while you do it and just be careful. Technically it doesn't need to be WOT when you do it on the water, you just set the throttle there in the driveway to be sure. I don't have my manual in front of me (nor yours) but I want to say it said get it turning at least 3400rpm (obviously not wot) and then set it. Someone correct me if I am wrong there.

Edit: I opened this thread hours ago and just got back to it. Glad to see you got it right.

Re: problems with Joe reeves timing procedure

I put the boat in the water yesterday, warmed it up in neutral, shut it off, unhooked the advance rod. Hooked up the timing light, started it up, pulled the rod to full advance and checked the timing. It raises the RPM some, not a lot. It was off 1 degree from Joes method. This is mentioned in a previous thread here, but I can't find the thread. I used that method to check my previous timing, after replacing the ball & sockets on the timing arm. The balls were in bad shape. Now I feel good about my timing, and you don't have to rev the bejesus out of the motor to check timing. Mine is a 1988 60hp Evinrude, btw. Good luck.