Stereo system installation with wiring

Ok.. I know this is like beating a dead horse and I have done lots of research for wiring my boat, even downloaded the 12v Bible for boats and gave it a read. Also I have download the basic sticky diagrams and have a whole txt document of tidbits and hints from Silvertip... as I scared of his wrath . I have a 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 fish and ski... link in my signature. I am starting the wiring from scratch as it previously was a nightmare. The PO had extension cords cut and spliced into, 120 plugs in a 12 volts system, indoor/outdoor outlets and switches everywhere... looked like a disaster waiting to happen.

Now onto the plan... It will be a two battery system. One cranking battery for engine only and a deep cycle for everything else.
I have ordered a Blue Sea 5026 Fuse Block ATO/ATC 12 Circuit with ground


and Blue Sea 9001e E-Series Battery Switch Selector
.

2/0 AWG Tinned Marine Battery Cable will be used from batteries to selector switch and fuse block. The planned switches I was leaning towards were: Master Power; Stereo; Nav lights; Anchor lights; Horn; Interior lights; Bilge pump; Sprayer bar; Trim switch (CMC unit factory harness and switch). The wiring for all the accessories will be strung with 12 AWG.

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

Here is the stereo equipment I went with... The boat is gonna be no performer so I wanted it to look and sound good... kinda splurged on the equipment but oh well its paid for and in the past

Head unit: Clarion CMD6 Marine CD/MP3/WMA Receiver with USB Port

Speakers: (4) JL Audio coax speakers (M650-CCX-CG-WH)

Subwoofer: JL Audio 10in infinite baffle (M10IB5-CG-WH)

Amp: JL Audio M600/6 600W 3/4/5/6 Channel Amplifier



Now the Questions I had were first off... I guessing I don't need a Master power switch since i have the selector switch for the batteries... as long as I have powered everything off first before switching the batteries off?

Next any recommendations for wiring of the stereo and amp... AWG of wire? Any tricks and tips anyone has run into to make things easier?

Any information, thoughts, concerns about the set up would be apprecitated.... diagrams also welcome.

Thanks for the look

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

Here is a link i found trying to find the "12v Bible for Boats"

http://motoren.ath.cx/

It has an electrical guide called "The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook for the boat's electric system", alternator guide called "The 12 Volt Doctor's Alternator Book", and a bunch of other manuals

Just use the navigation bar on the left of that page and go to electrical for the 12 Volt handbook

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

IMO, you don't really need two batteries.. the deep cycle willl be fine for starting, but if you have both, by all means use them

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

and the stereo, probably 14...

it should say in the directions? It's probably going to be a long run of wire for teh speakers.. better safe than sorry

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

Are you mounting the amp near the battery or up front someplace? If by the battery, you can squeak by with 8 gauge power wires but if any farther than 6 feet you need 4 gauge. I had basically the same amp JL E6450 in my boat power 4 alpine 6.5's and a JL 10" and sounded great. For speakers, run 10-12 gauge to the sub bridged and run 12-16 gauge to the speakers and you'll be fine. Make sure you find a place that can get some fresh air but not get wet. I could use go full power for about 1.5 hours in the AZ heat(110+) while beached before it would thermal, had to put 1 computer fan on it to move some air when beached, this made it run all day without overheating. You can get by with 1 battery but you have to watch it incase you drain it, fully opened that amp will pull between 50-65 amps constant. I did a dual battery setup for peace of mind.

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

No wrath from me -- just suggestions. What suggestions you take and which you ignore is your call. Now then -- few devices you mention require heavy and more expensive 12 gauge wire. It is simply not necessary and you will find that it gets hard and bulky to deal with in tight spaces. This would be especially evident if you intend to wire gauges with 12 gauge wire. 16 gauge wire is capable of handling 18 amps which is more than any device you listed except perhaps the stereo and amp. Next -- as long as you have a dual battery switch, you do not DEDICATE anything to ANY battery. That's what the switch is for so you can SELECT which battery does what. You wire everything to the COM terminal on the switch including the engine. You now can start the engine from either or both batteries. Run everything from either or both batteries. And charge either or both batteries from the engine. It doesn't get any more versatile than that. Your idea of a MASTER switch at the helm is still a good one. Yes, the battery switch can kill everything but only if you have everything wired to the COM terminal. The master switch at the helm is wired so it shuts down power to the fuse/breaker panel this killing everything without having to fiddle with the battery switch. Why does the stereo need a separate on/off switch? It should have one on the face plate. Nav and Anchor lights need one switch but it needs to be a six terminal ON-OFF-ON variety.

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

@Zopperman: Thanks for the info... prob gonna do two batteries just for piece of mind... well unless dissuaded

@Dizzy: Haven't decided were to mount the amp yet... could put it in the splashwell but not sure if i want it that close to the gas... under the console would prob be over a 6ft run of wire sooo... The sub is more than likely gonna go in the passenger seat box. Did you run everything through the amp? or did you have the head unit run the speakers? Since it was six channel i was figuring on bridging for sub and and channel per speaker? won't over power speakers correct? that sound about right?

@ Silvertip: Thank you for ur info... wrath was all in good fun.. u are a very respected member and i hate stepping on toes. I really do have a txt documents of ur information throughout random threads

What i have taken from responses:

1)12AWG= overkill for my setup besides stereo system... got it!

2) As far as gauges are concerned my plan is only a tach, and eventually a GPS/Fishfinder for speed/fishing ; Im thinking 14AWG for peace of mind and to allow for addition of GPS/fishfinder

2a) Side note: For the tach I was given some advice (may need to be posted in engine topic) but I would need to do some checking once running I need to check to see that the battery is charging, measure voltage with the engine off and then again when it is on, if it is higher on then I should be able to use a tach if not then there is a problem with the stator or rectifier Also i DO NOT disconnect the battery when the engine is running EVER, it will fry all sorts of things. Sound right?

2b) My engine 1985 Evinrude E50BELCO 50 hp (again may need to go in Evinrude thread)- How much charge is it really gonna put off not having an alternator. I do know that I will either need an on board dual bank charger or just a charger to keep batteries maintained

3) Wire everything to COM that way switch designates what battery does what... Start with both.. run to spot on both to allow what little charge my engine will put out. Park it set to single bat to run any accessories i need at the time. When ready to go power things off switch back to both start and go. Now one cranking and one deep cycle still sound good? I know some say one battery will do it but how much drain will stereo place on battery seeing that no real charge will happen out on the water... 2 for peace of mind?

4) Stereo on/off switch= Overkill... Got it!

5) 6 terminal nav/anchor on-off-on light switch... have ran across that diagram plenty of times... got it!

6) Revised list of switches: MASTER, BILGE, HORN (momentary), SPRAYER BAR, NAV/ANCHOR (on-off-on), INT LIGHTS, TRIM (cmc factory)

6a) Have planned to have an accessories plug and didn't label in original post of switches, should i dedicate switch to this or just add it into another?

Sorry for the novel... Again opinions are greatly appreciated... I love the learning experience and I have a lot to learn!

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

Your Evinrude is electric start and it has an alternator. If it has power trim it has a 12 amp output and if not, it has 6 amp output. Either way, the charging system will NOT keep two batteries topped off so you will need to charge them with an on-board or portable charge. You cannot see an alternator because it is part of the ignitiion system and is located under the flywheel. No need for a switch on the accessory plug since you are not likely to leave stuff plugged into it. Again -- folks tend to "over switch" their boats. Back to the 12/14/16 gauge wire. Just because you plan to add accessories in the future does not mean "branch circuits" need to be "oversized". Each accessory should be powered from the fuse panel on a dedicated circuit. Look at the wire size on the accessory. Rarely do you see anything near 14 or 12 gauge.

Re: Stereo system installation with wiring

Well there ya have it... learned something new... Alternator under flywheel and part of ignition... huh all this time man o man :facepalm:

The 'rude DIDN'T have factory power trim but was an option if im not mistaken... so prob a 6 amp output on mine. Didn't think it would keep the batteries topped off and planned on charger just gotta decide which kind

No need for accessory switch... was thinking the same thing

Yea i figured mine was "over switched" and i realized after i posted that about the wire gauge that each accessory will be its own circuit... it doesn't matter whats already in the boat its tailored to the accessory... sorry bout that.. fingers type faster than the ole noggin can compute.

Any experience with the CMC PT130? I know it came with its own wiring harness and unsure of all that is included with it but should it be wired to the fuse block as well? Or will its factory harness cover it just fine? Hope that makes sense

Thanks for your help Silvertip! Greatly Appreciated!