Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

Gordo19!!

Recruit
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Messages
4
Hi everyone,

I have read alot of forums on Iboats and learned alot of information about my boat

First I would like to say it is awesome here and am looking forward to the wealth of knowledge this site and its members seem to have!!!

So hello everyone!!

My question is I have been scratching my head with the problem I am having, I am looking for any help that anyone with some know how can help maybe

I have a mercury outboard 2 cyl. 25 hp 1980 to 1990 electric start outboard

I bought it last year in B.C from a nice fellow and well maintained boat for being in salt water

the first couple days the boat started well with the electric key start. then the starter or solenoid died. we had to pull start for the rest of our fishing trip.

when I got back I went and had the starter rebuilt, came home installed cleaned all the terminals checked voltage and everything was good installed the starter and when I turned the key I got one crank from the motor/starter and then just the click sound from the solenoid. Took starter back of course and it was fried again so warranty covered and fixed again. Scared to install starter I waited until this month to install and boom it happens again. The company that I had rebuilt from had been bought out so I purchased a new starter. I this time put a inline fuse from main line on battery, installed starter and again got one start and boom fuse blew, man was I glad I didnt kill the brand new 230 starter. I have voltage tested all the lines on solenoid, I get 12 volts on right side and when the key is turned I have 12 volts on starter side. key off no voltage key on voltage. checked the grounds and they all look right. everytime i turn key i get one crank and pop fuse blows. I have taken the ignition apart as well and it all looks good. I have been on this for 7 hrs now and cant seem to fix it I am leaving for cod fishing on friday and I cant get the starter to work. The starter works fine when I hook to just the battery. If I use the line on solenoid and ground to battery it blows the fuse. please any help from some pros would be great.

This is a weird one. I have good experience with DC wiring from alarm and car stereo installations, this has me beat literally,

The one thing that I wonder about is on the right side of solenoid there are 2 wires, one main from battery and a smaller one from the ignition, when I use my volt meter on the smaller wire I get voltage but only voltage as a ground when key is on. I put the red from volt meter on battery and turn key to on and put the black to the little red wire disconnected from solenoid and I get voltage on the meter. what is this little red wire and what does it do. when It is connected it makes the switch in the solenoid power the other side to starter. when it is disconnected it has no power on left side of solenoid.

sorry this is so long wanted to be exact so to make it easy for a pro to help out.

anyway awesome site love it, can oyu buy parts from here as well?? I might think to change the solenoid as well

THANK YOU FOR LETTING ME BE A PART OF THIS!!!!

Gordo
 

CharlieB

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
5,617
Re: Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

First, go here to see if your service manual is still available.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309079

The small red wire on the battery terminal of the starter solenoid feeds the ignition switch to supply any accessories once turned ON and to supply power to the solenoid when the key is turned to crank the motor. This wire should have a fuse.

The battery cable and the cable to the starter should not have a fuse, even a 50 amp mega fuse would blow if installed here.

Check/clean both ends of both battery cables and the motor block where the ground cable attaches. Make sure that the cables are not reversed as this will kill the charging system.

Also clean both ends of the starter cable as well as the starter mounts to be sure the starter makes a good ground connection.

A poor ground causes the starter to draw excessive battery current, rapidly heating and toasting the starter.
 

Gordo19!!

Recruit
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Messages
4
Re: Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

Hey and thanks for your reply I appreciate it!!! All the cable ends and solenoid are clean and connected. I put a mainline fuse in because was worried about when I blew the starter before. Am I hearing you right that I should not have the fuse on the red battery wire. Mainline. I have replaced starter with brand new one contacts are good! I went out and bought a solenoid today but same thing. So I know the solenoid was good. There are no accessories at the helm just a key. But if I remove the fuse from mainline and hook it up won't it blow starter instead?? At this point as soon as I turn key with a 30 amp I get one crank and boom fuse blows. I removed the plugs to see if it was the flywheel sticking but this did not help. Maybe you are right in that I am blowing the fuse because it's there and the starter isn't getting enough amps so boom!! There was never a fuse there before when the old guy had it there is a 20 amp fuse on red line from ignition

Thanks again for your help really appreciate it!!!!
Gordo
 

Gordo19!!

Recruit
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Messages
4
Re: Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

Wiring is brand new to starter and connection ends at battery are new as well paint is gone on starter ground. The little red wire to the solenoid does not have a fuse by the solenoid. I found a similar manual and it shows all wires are correct. Maybe just the battery fuse? That's all that I have added. But it blows every time I start.
 

CharlieB

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
5,617
Re: Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

Starters draw a great deal of current, up to 200 amps. A poor connection can cause it to draw even more amps, heating and burning the armature. There should NOT be any fuse between the battery, solenoid, or starter. All connections MUST BE clean, bright, and tight, including the starter ground, battery ground cable to motor block, and both battery terminals.

At the starter solenoid on the battery positive cable terminal there should be a smaller red wire that feeds power to the ignition switch. This wire should have a fuse in it, usually 20 amps.

The starter solenoid must have a good ground or it can draw excessive amps and blow the fuse. A non-standard solenoid can draw more than the factory specified solenoid.

Corrosion or loose connections in the large red canon plug connecting the boat wiring to the motor wiring can cause problems. Unplug the cannon plug and inspect for any green corrosion, clean as necessary. The male pins can be widened slightly by sliding an exacto knife blade down into the slot of each pin. Disconnect the battery ground cable as it is way too easy to short across two pins, melting them and your exacto knife blade.
 

Gordo19!!

Recruit
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Messages
4
Re: Problem and Hi!! New to Forum

Thanks again for your help. Replaced the ends removed the fuse on main line battery. Removed spark plugs so flywheel would spin easy. Engaged key and starter turned, but seized on flywheel. I adjusted space of starter with lock rings to correct spacing of starter. Tried again and starter turned flywheel no problem at all several times in fact. Contacts are all brand new did not clean for 2 bucks easier to replace and do right. Now another problem. When I reinstalled the plugs I get the starter to contact flywheel it turns a couple times but it eventually seizes. You were right about the main fuse and also the red wire. Instead of connecting red wire I ran a new wire from bat to red wire so it was not on solenoid anymore. Main battery line still is on solenoid. You are right about this wire it does engage ignition. Hooked yellow wire with red stripe to smaller terminal of solenoid. This is the sending wire from ignition. solenoid won't work without it. I inspected the wire from battery to solenoid after starting and it was warm. Wiring is about 10 12 gauge. May not big enough. Turned key off then move fly wheel and then key again.it seizes again I quickly turn off so not to damage brand new starter. But now why the seizing?. It's not aligning properly
The starter is a marine grade same model as before I greased where needed. I think
maybe just some more space or shims might fix alignment issue with flywheel.
This has turned out to be a 20 hr repair lol I really appreciate your respect and help with this never ending battle. I have been scanning the forums for new info on flywheel alignment with starter now
Terrible it is never gonna end running out of time to be able to fish on my trip.
Thanks again
Gordon
 
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