Bigspinner83
Recruit
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Hi,
I have read many posts on this subject and also the points trouble shooting guide. However I am still stuck.
The boat was put up for 3 years, at that time it ran trouble free and had recent tune up.
I am now trying to get it started again. Installed a Racor water separator as it had none before and did a close inspection of everything before trying to start it.
I am getting fuel to the carbs, but no spark. I began trouble shooting and have come up with the following.
12 Volts are getting to the Coil, when cranking it reduces to 9V as normal.
Checked coil with Ohm meter, has continuity between the posts and between post and tower. (Would this mean the coil is good?) No spark when tested from tower with a wire touching grounded block.
Disconnected gray wire from negative post to bypass shift interrupt system while keeping negative lead to distributer connected. Still no spark from tower.
Opened distributer cap, overall clean and dry. A little grease but not dirty.
Replaced Rotor and Points (doing so by making careful marks to mark location of old points and matching with new). I did not replace condenser as it was already installed fresh 3 years ago from the tune up kit that I used now. Still no spark.
The only thing that I can think of that would still need replacing is the condenser, might have gone bad sitting there? If the coil is getting the correct voltage and has continuity, doesn't that mean that some part of the distributer is bad since it controls the negative voltage feed to the coil?
I hope this makes sense to someone with more knowledge than I!
Cheers from Alaska
I have read many posts on this subject and also the points trouble shooting guide. However I am still stuck.
The boat was put up for 3 years, at that time it ran trouble free and had recent tune up.
I am now trying to get it started again. Installed a Racor water separator as it had none before and did a close inspection of everything before trying to start it.
I am getting fuel to the carbs, but no spark. I began trouble shooting and have come up with the following.
12 Volts are getting to the Coil, when cranking it reduces to 9V as normal.
Checked coil with Ohm meter, has continuity between the posts and between post and tower. (Would this mean the coil is good?) No spark when tested from tower with a wire touching grounded block.
Disconnected gray wire from negative post to bypass shift interrupt system while keeping negative lead to distributer connected. Still no spark from tower.
Opened distributer cap, overall clean and dry. A little grease but not dirty.
Replaced Rotor and Points (doing so by making careful marks to mark location of old points and matching with new). I did not replace condenser as it was already installed fresh 3 years ago from the tune up kit that I used now. Still no spark.
The only thing that I can think of that would still need replacing is the condenser, might have gone bad sitting there? If the coil is getting the correct voltage and has continuity, doesn't that mean that some part of the distributer is bad since it controls the negative voltage feed to the coil?
I hope this makes sense to someone with more knowledge than I!
Cheers from Alaska