71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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14
I am the proud owner of a 60ESL71C on my 14" 71 Starcraft.

Here's a brief backstory:

We got the boat for "free" :facepalm: in the summer of 2009. Spent last summer cleaning the mice leftovers out of it, and got new seats made for it, and a trailer. Earlier this summer, we got it running and took it on the water for the first time. After warming up, we took it out and all was goo for about two minutes when everything went sluggish and we had to turn around and limp back to the dock. I made some idle adjustments and we tried again, same thing.

Over the past few weeks, as time allowed, we worked on the engine and got it to run perfectly. This is what we did...

Did a whole bunch of stuff. Turns out we were seriously out of time. We spent the day first removing the fly wheel and making sure that the points were correct ended up readjusting them to 0.010" and secured them with blue lock tite(this engine is a dual point engine (ACK!)), and placed the spark advance lever at angle based on the pictures in the manual assumed to be TDC. We measured 22 deg along the plate and adjusted the linkage to stop at that point, wound back the mechanical advance stop to adjust during motor test run. We then made sure that the neutral start switch was set on the correct cam height, and replaced the Flywheel. We readjusted the carburetor throttle cam and accelerator rod for proper positioning. When went through the carburetors, made sure the linkages were set the same, carbs were clean, and needle valve adjustment was correct at 5/8 turn when the low speed adjustment knob is straight up and down. All three operated together correctly. The test run took a while get a comfortable idle that didn't quit on us. With constant adjustments to the low speed idle screw AND trunion wheel. We were then able to work on the timing adjustments for throttling up. Very pleased with the results and locked down the mechanical advance stop. As long as we were there, we checked the oil consistency, and resistance to the electronic shifts. Al seemed perfect. Still had no gear, though. We CAREFULLY disassembled the remote throttle lever, and discovered that the guts of the switch and cable assembly were shattered. So, as I described in the first message, the second time that we limped back to the dock, when we shut down the motor with the lever in neutral, That assembly finally gave out completely.

Next Post...
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

We managed to locate 2 switch and cable assemblies (part #384042). One for $100.00, and one for $60.00, and both are new in box. New ones from commercial dealers go for $300.00, so yippee!

We disassembled the remote and found that the switch inside the control had 5 wires on it. Purple, Green, Blue and 2 Whites. The two white wires are for neutral safety with continuity provided with the ignition in the start position and connections inside the switch when the throttle lever is locked in the upright position.

The "new" switches have 3 wires on them; Purple, Green, and Blue. I connected the white wires directly to each other because I believe that the 5 wire switch was not the original switch, as there is a neutral start switch in the cam of the engine under the fly wheel. Also we are still in contact with the previous owner of the boat and he told us that he had changed the switch about 10 years ago and used the 5 wire b/c he could not find the one he wanted. And claimed that there was something that he had to change regarding how the wiring was connected to it, but can't remember what he did.

ANYWAY...

We installed one of the new switches, with coordinating colors with existing wiring and all looked well. the engine started perfectly, ran smooth went to shift and... no gear. Here's where I can't remember: whether I had reverse or not, but definitely had NO forward. Now I have to reassemble what I have and check again.

I don't have the unit in front of me, but as i remember, this is how I have it connected...

White from the ignition switch connected to the White from the harness - directly.
Blue from the harness to the Blue from the switch and cable assembly - directly.
Green from the harness to the Green from the switch and cable assembly - directly.
And the questionable one...
Purple with Green from the harness to the purple from the switch and cable assembly AND the "Purple with Green" that comes from the diode.
((a purple wire comes from the ignition switch to a diode and the purple with green wire comes from the diode))

Do I have this switch wired correctly?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

there should be a purple and green wire from the motor (vacume switch) and purple and green wire from diode that go to the purple on the switch the green is neutral blue is reverse i got that from my book which covers yours mine is very simaler as you told me in my post so on mine the when in neutral green wire has power going to it in reverse both green and blue have power in forward green and blue have no power it automaticly goes into forward hope this helps
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

Thats what I've been going over. When I get home from work in the morning, I need to check the Ohm meter to the lower unit with the switch in the different positions. I am just hoping that I don't have electromagnet problems.

And I am glad you posted that, So I know I am not reading that wrong.
 
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Jul 21, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

one more thing if you disconect the two wires to the lower unit with ohm meter put one lead to ground and the other one to the wires out of lower unit one at a time they should be like 6-9 ohms then check betwen the two there should be no conectivity mine had one wire grounded out i used some liquid electrical tape to fix mine
 
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

also white wire is right with this swich it goes from harnes to ignition just like you said you have it just so you undestand the key provides power to shifter also the vacume swich also provides power so if you are in neutral and say are ideling a little high and you shut key off the vacumed swich keeps power going till vacume gone give time for motor to stop before it drops back in to forward and this is where the blockind diode comes in without it the power from the vacume swich could bleed back to the coil and not alow the motor to shut off when starting the key wire keeps it in netral till vacume kicks in so without both wire the boat would lunge forward when you start or kill it one that is why it has two power wires going to the swich
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

Was able to check continuity in all on the wires in my harness (black Plug) from the remote to the female end, then on the male end to ground and to available connections to terminal bar, then the green and blue to lower unit. All good. But I did NOT check green to blue into the LU. Good mention. Will check that tomorrow. Other than that I can't think of a reason that it shouldn't go into gear. Will let you know.
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

How about that. I checked the green and blue going to the lower unit and......continuity. Going back outside to fix.
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

I'm stuck. Been out there 4 hours and can't stop the continuity. doesn't seem to be the wires. Looks like there's a connection made when the shift rod makes contact with either one of the solenoids. don't want to keep taking shift mechanism in and out so I don't wreck it. Any Ideas? I provided power to them and they work. independently.
 

Daviet

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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

Correct me if I am wrong but, both shift solenoids use the lower unit case as a common ground. If you check continuity between the two solenoids while they are mounted in the lower unit, they will have continuity between the two wires.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

mine had a short right by the clip on the water pump bolt i used liquid electrical tape and if the blue and green wire is disconected it should go in foward gear at least thats how mine works i think yours is the same
 

Phyreman

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Jun 27, 2011
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Re: 71 Johnson 60C NO GEAR

Well I had spent most of that day trying to stop continuity between the two, and I believe Daviet to be correct. the only time that I was able to stop it, was when I removed the shift assembly and was able to get the shift rod to not contact both solenoids at the same time. When I took it out the first time, it was stuck. After removal all pieces moved freely, then after we reassembled it, we had gear. Now we are having another problem. BRB
 
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