Nissan NS5B, Just reassembled LU and Have Shifting Problems

pepper h.

Recruit
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
5
1992 model. Had water in the LU and lots of rust. Found a local bait and tackle shop that used to sell Tohatsu motors that had the water pump parts, bearings, seals and gaskets I needed in stock.

I have the shift rod oreintation correct with the angled portion facing the prop, but neutral is now reverse, reverse is reverse, and forward is neutral.

Only thing I can think of is I may not have the "A" bevel gear (far end away from prop) fully seated, although it meshes perfectly with the "B" bevel gear (drive shaft gear), clutch dogs and gear facings show no sign of wear. Another possibility is that I dont have the bearing/seal fully seated in the prop casting, which could push the "A" bevel gear too far foward. Visibly, it looks like everything is seated, but it could be a few mils off, hard to tell.

I will play some more with the brass block adjuster that adjoins the two parts of the shift rod together before removing the LU again, but other than that, I see no other adjustments. I used the .010 shims from shim kit a and b because that is what was in there originally. I have the .015 shims as well. Any ideas? I am spinning the prop by hand when I shift and have not started the motor. Still have to clean rust out of gas tank.

Thanks in advance. Time for experts to weigh in.
 

pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,500
Re: Nissan NS5B, Just reassembled LU and Have Shifting Problems

Pepper, Assuming you have the prop shaft bits assembled correctly... you need to adjust the shift coupler block correctly. The lower rod needs to come up more. Disengage the block so it slides, and manually put the LU in a known gear. Then sync the lever so it is in the same position. Then tighten the coupler. If the gears were not seated correctly, they would not mesh properly, so you should be Ok there. They all turn all the time. The shifter merely applies pressure to the push rod to push out of F, then into R as the rod moves down. As for shim packs, that is determined by the gear backlash. You need a dial indicator to check that, but start with the same pack that was installed from the factory... and if the new bearings mic up the same (from face to face) as the originals, you should be OK with the same shim packs.
 
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