I got it RUNNING!!!

First thing I want to thank all those who helped me (Salmon Slayerr and 99Yam40)troubleshoot my lack of power/bogging down at WOT throttle issue with my 96" 60HP Yamaha.
It was INDEED the carbs. The low speed jets were partially plugged on carbs 1 & 3. And completely plugged on #2. That carb has the enriching fuel pump and electrothermal valve on it. Those passageways were pretty scaled up as well. I say scaled because the stuff that was in there flaked out when dry. All cleaned out, carb rebuild kits, No leaks. Put the muffs on, first 5 second start= nothing (now I sweat) push in the key again when starting (electric choke through the electrothermal valve) crank it and 1 second later up and purring. Smooth as ever. No sputter. No pops. Idle at @800 rpm. Warms up, and idle drops to @400 rpm. Set idle speed screw to 500 rpm (I like it a bit lower than spec (800 rpm's is mfr spec) because it "feels" like it "slams" into gear any higher than that. Out to the lake and needless to say runs better than before it started acting up. 99Yam40, I still only get 2700 rpm's and 35 mph. I have a stainless K-17 prop. But I can get to top speed even faster now. Good fishing day too!!! I know this is long winded, but one more questuion: I want to prevent this scale from building up like that again. I use Stabil RELIGOUSLY. Not Marine Formula, just the regular type. Will marine Formula help prevent this Ethanol scum from building up in the future??

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

Use the marine formula, your motor is a marine motor and hopefully it will help.
You still have a problem, most likely it is your tach that is not set correctly and is only reading half of what it should.

Also the prime start system does not require you to push anything to work, it is active all the time and after motor runs for a few minutes the voltage to the electrothermal valve will heat up and plug off the passage. It normally takes 2 to 3 (2or3 second)turns of the key to fire up

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

99Tam40,
Thanks for the info. So then what is the purpose of pushing in the key when starting?? As it was told to me it was for "cold" or first start situations. Whatever it is for, the engine starts a lot easier than it ever has for the 6 or so years that I have had it. I will check into the setting of the tach. That could also explain why it seems to "slam" into a gear when the tach shows 500 rpms or higher at idle. That the rpms might ACTUALLY be 1000 ??? Thanks again for the feedback!!!

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

Pushing the key is for motors with chokes not prime start

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

99yam40,

Thank you. No more pushing in the key. Next "dumb" question. My tach seems to have two dip switchs in it to determine its calibration. I have pretty much determined that they are in the wrong position. But without "testing" various settings and taking a chance on smoking the tach. What would be the proper settings for my 96" P60 TLHU? Nothing in the service manual for that one.

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

You need to find a manual for your tach to see what is says the dip switch settings are,
and then find out what pole your motor is to match everything up

Re: I got it RUNNING!!!

Found a post that someone had a 96" C60. Set the dip swiches to what they did. Tach reads correctly now. I tried to find something for a manual on this tach. I Googled my fingers off doing it. The #2 switch was in the middle BTW. Not up or down. Best I and the guy I bought the boat from (1st owner) is that it has been that way since 96.
Thanks again for the feedback