Ignition switch installation troubles.

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I just aquired another mans headache.1988 18 ft. bass buggy. with a 40 HP evinrude. He could not get it to start or run.. I took it home, I checked compression(115psi &112) I had to cover carb with hand to start. Fired off after it warmed up, idle smooth. It has one key switch under throttle, and the push choke ignition switch is missing. I have one but need to know what wire goes where. I have ordered a manual. But I would like to install it now..Can anyone help me?
 

praiseman310

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Re: Ignition switch installation troubles.

Did you ever get the answer to your question. I have the same problem.

Thank you -
 
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MH Hawker

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Re: Ignition switch installation troubles.

mmm some of the choke switches are the ignition switch while cranking you push in on the key switch. give that a try. Is the switch missing, like thier is a hole for one or you cant find one , and yes a picture helps.
 

praiseman310

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Re: Ignition switch installation troubles.

Are you knowledgable about the ignition switch wiring for 1988 40 hp vro evinrude outboard? I have photos of my original switch and a new one. Someone else changed it so I didn't see where original wires went, but it is blowing a fuse when the key is pushed in to choke it.

I purchased a boat with a 1988 (I think) serial number G1015259 - 40 hpVRO. The owner lost the key and made a quick change to the switch to sell it so he could get a new key - It almost works. It will crank if you don't push the key in to choke it. I have the original switch and the new one is slightly different by 1 post/terminal. The engine will crank if you don't push in the key to engage the choke, but if you do push the key in you blow a small 20 amp (not sure if that is what should be in there) fuse under the engine cowl located at the rear of the engine where the spark plugs are located.

I believe the only problem is he slightly missed connecting the wires to the proper terminals, but I don't know how they are supposed to go since I didn't see the set-up before he changed it. Maybe someone can HELP!!! I do have photos available of the old switch and the new one with wires current wire connections.

See switch layout below. I am guessing there should be no wire on the terminal "I" where there is currently a yellow wire with a red stripe. I don't know where it should go? Then I believe a "purple" wire should be on Terminal "C" , but I don't know where the black wire should go unless it is with other black wires on "M". Maybe just swapping the black wire currently on C with the purple wire on M will do it?? I need help!

Please advise

Thank you in advance.

Here's what I see on the 2 swithces:

Original:

S
C
A
M
B
M

New One:
S - a larger red wire
A - there is no terminal here, but an indention in the plastic where I suppose a terminal would go, but nothing there
M - 2 black wires together - one black and one black with a yellow stripe
B - 2 purple wires
M - 1 purple wire
C - (This post is located in the center of the switch) - This one has one small black wire run to it.
I - (this could be an "I", "1", or (-) I am not sure which) There is not one of these on the original switch - It has a yellow with red stripe wire connected to it.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Ignition switch installation troubles.

The current switch is apparently a "universal" type. Outboards have magnetos. I/O's and inboards are battery ignition and that's why the new switch has an "I" position and absence of "A" (accessory) terminal.
Here is what you need to do.

1) With a voltmeter, check for voltage on the "S" terminal with the key OFF. If there is 12 volts on this line, it is on the wrong terminal and very likely should go to the "B" terminal on the switch. The "S" terminal is what actuates the starter solenoid when the key is in the START position. It should not have voltage on it in the RUN or OFF position.
2) The two "M" terminals are also wired wrong. The "M" terminal with the two black wires on it should have only ONE of the two wires on it. The other wire goes to the OTHER "M" terminal. The reason the engine won't start is because these two wires are what KILLS the engine when the key is turned OFF. The fact that they are tied together is performing the same function as KEY OFF.
3) The "C" terminal is active when the key is pushed in. This is the terminal that activates the choke/primer solenoid and it is also the reason the fuse blows when you push the key. Black is a ground wire and does not belong on that terminal. So when you push the key in 12 volts goes directly to ground due to the short. The primer solenoid in my diagram shows a purple wire with a white stripe.
4) The "B" terminal stands for "battery". If the red wire that is on the "S" terminal is active all the time, then that wires is what belongs on the "B" terminal.
5) That leaves the "I" terminal to contend with. That terminal should be active ONLY when the key is in the RUN position so it is the same as the "A" terminal on a stock switch. That terminal should have a purple wire on it that feeds +12 volts to the gauges.
Go boating.
 
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