1946Zephyr
Vice Admiral
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2008
- Messages
- 5,556
Usually, I am kind enough to offer my best advice to new members here, but this time, I am seeking some input.
I just rebuilt the carb on my '59 RDS Johnson and it appears that I can't get the gas to quit flowing out, when I charge up the primer bulb. I just rebuilt it with a new kit (new float too) and when I charge the fuel system up with the primer bulb, gas flows out the front of the carb, as though I completely left out the needle assembly. Very odd to me. I tried different float level settings to no avail. Oddly enough though, the new float that was in the (OEM) kit was an older style cork float. When I turn the carb upside down and blow into the fuel line nipple, it is shut off tighter than a drum and I turn it right side up, I can blow through it, which is the normal way it should work.
Well, my theory is, the floats in the new kits, just don't have enough bouyancy to shut off the gas at the needle valve, like it should, so I need to find one of the newer style plastic floats and try again. Is there a source to buy a newer style float? What is your input, guys? Anyone else experienced this issue? I did on another RDS carb I rebuilt about 15 years ago, but I ended up replacing that carb. This one looks to be in too good of shape to toss and I have had several in worse condition, work fine. LOL
I just rebuilt the carb on my '59 RDS Johnson and it appears that I can't get the gas to quit flowing out, when I charge up the primer bulb. I just rebuilt it with a new kit (new float too) and when I charge the fuel system up with the primer bulb, gas flows out the front of the carb, as though I completely left out the needle assembly. Very odd to me. I tried different float level settings to no avail. Oddly enough though, the new float that was in the (OEM) kit was an older style cork float. When I turn the carb upside down and blow into the fuel line nipple, it is shut off tighter than a drum and I turn it right side up, I can blow through it, which is the normal way it should work.
Well, my theory is, the floats in the new kits, just don't have enough bouyancy to shut off the gas at the needle valve, like it should, so I need to find one of the newer style plastic floats and try again. Is there a source to buy a newer style float? What is your input, guys? Anyone else experienced this issue? I did on another RDS carb I rebuilt about 15 years ago, but I ended up replacing that carb. This one looks to be in too good of shape to toss and I have had several in worse condition, work fine. LOL